Fishing For Scenic Splendour On The Arico Coast

Calm seas lapping at volcanic slabs, shingle dragging lazily along the sea bed, sandstone sculpted by time and nature, and fishing villages full of traditional delights. Another fine walk, this time on the east coast of Tenerife, just a short distance and a world away from the TF 1 motorway heading up north.

Los Cristianos was bristling with activity on this Saturday morning as groups of keen walkers flexed their maps, laced up their boots, and scanned the sky for tell tale signs of good or bad weather. I joined some friends for the brief convoy to Arico and the Tajao turn off, I don’t think I have seen a village so blessed with tempting fish restaurants and bars. After a coffee launch at Bar Rocas we headed part way up the slip road before plunging down the rocky pathway where eroded sandstone shapes towered over us. The sun was set fair in the clear sky and the path soon opened up onto the beach just beyond a peg shaped stack marking a small cove.

The sea shimmered and the suface looked like glass broken only at remote outcrops where lone fishermen tried their luck, it was such a lovely setting they probably weren’t too concerned if they got a bite or not, the tranquility was reward enough. Scaling the brow of a hill we could see piles of slate to one side and families playing in rock pools down at coast level. Further along an organised camp site looked neat and tidy with small cabins and motor homes stretching inland, other had settled near the waters edge using natural shelter from the rocks to make an impromptu chalet.

Each new climb was greeted with further views of rocky fingers protruding into the sea and volcanic patterns that would make any artist envious. After a while a distant church loomed into view with a sprawling village ahead of it, this was La Jaca. A few early afternoon locals sat outside their homes enjoying the cool breeze, the small crescent shaped harbour was a perfect place to stop to raid our water and sandwiches. The fishing boats hugged the back wall and a protective rail and metal steps into the sea were modern additions to encourage swimming, and a shrine to the Virgen de los Pobres (virgin of the poor)Â was well tended with flowers Fed and watered we moved on over the hill and carefully crossed a concrete damm where a barranco met the incoming sea. Up the other side we were in La Listada and were drawn to the church (Iglesia de la Virgen de Los Pobres) local families greeted us warmly and one sent a small boy to unlock the church so we could look inside. Outside Poinsettia (the christmas plant) burnt brightly, a perfect finishing touch.

Abades lay further ahead and the wind turbines whirred gently up near the motorway, for us it was time to retrace our steps with a few variations. Going higher up this time we joined a roughly pebbled road that only seemed to serve a few large houses. They all seemed to have big alsations straining at the leash through the gates – maybe they had smelled my turkey rolls. Pushing on the return trip was quicker and well timed as we saw a few clouds rolling in from the west. Just before we reached our starting point I noticed the shipwrecked Russian boat, Runaway Serf, that has been in the Canarian news for the last few months. It looked a bit of a rust bucket but its hull proudly displayed names of calls on the way from Moscow. Strassburg, Geneva,Lisbon and Cadiz had all been visited but the last name New York could prove a port too far – especially as motor is awaiting repair by local helpers. Russian journalist Andrei Novoselov is living on board and hasn’t even got any desert island discs to listen to.

Anyway back at Bar Rocas a busy afternoon was underway, the upstairs restaurant, highly recomended by some of my friends, was filling up and this Tajao crossroads seemed quite a focal point. After three hours of brisk walking the Dorada was very welcome, I will certainly pass this way again – maybe I can cadge a boat lift to New York!

Drawing A Blank, Another Goal Less Away Day For CD Tenerife

Coach Calderon (below) made a point before this game at Toldo of saying CD Tenerife were going looking for the win but that didn’t seem obvious from his team selection. Kiko is a big man but the gap left by his injury is starting to look like a gaping chasm, Ferran Tacon seemed to have the job of supporting solo striker Perona and again it didn’t work. Sergio Rodriguez came in at the back for the suspended Tarantino but these days the defence is the least of our worries.

No television coverage again so my earphones were disturbing wax again. At least I had the FA Cup goal round up on ITV to give my eyes a reminder of how good it is to see the net bulging. Over in Toledo CDT had an early penalty appeal turned down, Sanchez apparently handling the ball. Victor Bravo nearly broke the deadlock after the half hour but no joy. Meji replaced new boy Sergio just into the second half and already the prospect of hollering goal and waking next doors cat up looked remote.

Chechu came close before making way for Ruben Rosquete making a surprise return from injury. I was hoping the Armada Sur party at the game might be able to inspire a win but even they couldn’t break the away win drought. German, a recognised goal scorer didn’t come off the bench until the 88th minute, hardly time to break sweat, and Zosmar was left at home again watching the Canarian equivalent of the Coronation Street omnibus. Zazo’s last minute attempt was met with dirision by the commentator so that was that.

A Cheeky Away Win At Home For CD Tenerife

You know what it’s like, your away, playing badly, not making an impression on the game but you sneak a 1-0 win – result or what. Sadly this 1-0 win over Leganes was at home and the 9,353 fans really deserved better than this half hearted display. Both halfs Tenerife came out flat with no drive or passion, maybe they thought lowly Leganes were easy pickings, a dangerous state of mind to adopt.

Captain Kiko has been the subject of a fair bit of sniping from some fans who question his contribution and at 34 see him as yesterdays man. The skipper was out injured today and boy was he missed, as a target man and aerial threat he still has plenty to offer and as a local born player with blue and white blood he inspires respect and shows leadership. Victor Bravo partnered Perona up front but he drifted wide a lot and with poor service and it didn’t quite gell. Luna and Kitoko also failed fitness tests and Ayoze (below) held his place in the centre of defence with Marcos taking the midfield holding role.

A cold start saw Leganes create two early chances, Cristobal (top pic) did well to hook one away and another went wide. Tenerife didn’t get near the visitors goal until 10 minutes into the game and Zazo had the first clear chance five minutes later with a header that was cleared. Chechu was having a quiet game even before he was pole axed and narrowly avoided a stretcher ride before being helped off for a few minutes treatment. Vincent Perez was buzzing everywhere for Leganes and Victor Fernandez was bearing down on goal, thankfully Sergio slid out to take the ball. A goal less first half looked like the best we could hope for but with the referees whistle poised for action Ferran Tacon set Perona clear and he ran the ball and finished coolly-phew that was handy.

The second half was little better, Nico replaced Chechu but the birthday boy and the drifting Bravo were getting in each others way on the left. Perona had a chance to make it 2-0 but Bayon intercepted well, German came on for Bravo (above) and played a more central striking role but went down too easily when challenged. With 10 minutes to go a Leganes free kick was struck low and hard through a scrum of players, Sergio was equal to it crouching low for a vital save. German had a late opening but Falcon the visiting keeper swooped to claim the ball. A win’s a win but it was far from convincing.

Pirates Shiver As HMS Montrose Takes A Tenerife Break

Hey, fancy coming back to see my battleship? that’s got to be one of the most impressive chat up lines. Judging by the beaming smiles on the young ladies heading off the gang plank of HMS Montrose shore leave definately has its attractions. The 185 good men and women of the Type 23 Royal Navy frigate certainly deserved their four day break in Santa Cruz, having just left their Devonport base in Plymouth they were stocking up and gearing up for a six month tour in the South Atlantic keeping a watchful eye on the Falkland Islands and other outposts 8,000 plus nautical miles away.

PM Call Me Dave has just issued the go ahead for commercial ships to carry arms and security staff when sailing the pirate infested African seas off Somali. A year ago Montrose patrolled that area and blasted a roque pirate ship out of the water. Just looking at the 32 Seawolf missiles and the imposing 4.5 inch gun turret was enough to dispel any thoughts I had about getting an eye patch and a parrot. Lieutenant Commander Sam Law, the ships public relations officer gave me a guided tour below decks, I was surprised how relatively spacious it was, even the junior messdecks have a chill out area with Tv, DVD and Hi Fi. Up on deck I resisted the urge to reset the main gun to face Gran Canaria.

The bridge was very compact with clear views out onto Santa Cruz dock, I even got to swivel in Commander Jonathan Lett’s chair. A helicopter had definately been mentioned in the research I had done so where had they hidden it? That was easily answered as my guide pulled open the hanger door up on deck to reveal a Lynx helicopter with rotor blades folded and ready to pounce like a coiled spring. Even this bit of hardware packs a hefty punch, Sea Skua anti ship missiles, Stingray torpedos, depth charges, and machine guns could soon teach an opponent the error of their ways.

The current Montrose, the third to proudly bear the name was built on the Clyde and launched in 1992. capable of 28 knots it’s driven by 5.2 mw of power but the bit of information that impressed me was all its vertical surfaces have a 70 degree slope which makes it appear the size of a fishing ship on radar. Suitably impressed I left the ship hoping that the manly absent crew enjoy all the excesses that Tenerife can offer, even with summer creeping in at the South Atlantic it’s a long trip away – fair winds and tides to them all.

Queen Mary 2 Holds Court In Tenerife

Was it Carnaval time again in Tenerife? The streets of Santa Cruz were bristling with people, police and Unipol cars were visible on all corners and there was even an eye in the sky in the police helicopter. Anyone would think royalty had come to call, well it had in the majestic form of Queen Mary 2, tucked in behind fellow cruise liners Voyager Of the Seas and Liberty Of The Seas on the far quayside. Heading into the flow of dissembarking passengers I headed down the ramp at the ferry station to gaze across at the illustrious visitors.

Security was tight on QM2’s maiden voyage call seven years ago but now it was tighter than ever, glued to the phone earlier in the week neither the Tenerife port authority, Cunard in Southampton or their various press and PR agencies were offering a close up and personal tour. The previous day the port carried out a bomb threat simulation around the Costa Deliziosa to test security but the Fred Olsen cruise ship Balmoral was parked up on the near pier so at least I got to cozey on up to that, no mean ship itself with 1,750 crew and passengers.

Queen Mary was undoutedly the star and even at a distance she was attracting a large fan club, I headed down to the old jet foil station for a closer look from their small jetty. Small fishing boats seemed to be looking up in awe at their regal visitor and I’m sure the Fred Olsen ferry’s blast on the horn as it passed had a tone of respect about it. At this point maybe I should fire a few QM2 stats at you. At 1,132 feet (345 metres) long the QM2 covers 3.5 acres, weighs 151,400 tons and has 17 decks making it as high as a 23 storey building. At full stretch she can do 30 knots and on this visit brought 2,200 passengers and 1,100 crew.

Despite only being seven years old and having had a few minor touches done in Greenock before this cruise, the QM2 is heading to Blohm in Germany for a refit after taking in Gran Canaria,Lanzarote, Lisbon, Vigo, and dropping off back in Southampton. Bringing a healthy boost to Santa Cruz the four cruise ships between them carried 10,550 passengers and 3,400 crew – ker ching went those tills. There was no respite for the port, the next day four more liners were due, Marco Polo, Adventure Of The Seas, Thomson Destiny, and Costa Mediterranea. Never a dull moment.

Getting Crafty In Santa Cruz

As someone who spent two school terms making a clay ash tray that looked like an offensive weapon I’m pretty impressed by those with the skills to fashion a pipe from a tree branch or make a coffee table using only their finger nail clippings. Thankfully these skills were not used by any of the 200 exhibitors at this years Feria de Artesania (craft fair) at the Recinto Ferial in Santa Cruz.

I expected a bit of a scrum down to get in as it was free but the mid afternoon concourse was empty and the aisles inside were almost clear with just a smattering of people browsing. Never mind, with a cheery good day stout yeoman to the doorman I went inside the modernish designed show hall, I still refer to it as the squashed pastie. The fair had attracted artesans from all seven islands, one of the first I gravitated to had traditional costumes but the holder had gone walkabout. One of the dummies held a basket full of individually wrapped chunky almond biscuits so I took a couple to road test, very nice, all crunchy on the outside with a softer centre.

There was a real mixed bag of stalls with very well made and imaginative toys, soaps, perfumes, glass ware, clothes and furniture. What was missing was customers, some exhibitors looked bored rigid, two old chaps as wrinkly as Canarian potatoes were selling home made musical instruments but I thought it odd that they had some retro Take That blaring out from their radio. The 80’s pop conspiracy grew as I headed up the stairs to the balcony cafe to be greeted by Tears For Fears wafting down the steps. As I ordered my coffee and roll I noticed that the serving ladies uniforms bore the word Faster with the additional word Catering in small letters beneath. A thousand innuendos crossed my mind but I was strong and just gave them one of my winning smiles.

Nosing around again downstairs I found the cakes, jams and biscuits stalls and tried a few samples, very tastey, I could have had a meal at the restaurant below the bar. There were some lovely toys and dolls on the nearby stalls, good early christmas shopping I would think. The reconditioned furniture looked very stylish and the bed looked very bouncy, dare I test it for sqeaky springs? maybe not, apparently I’m supposed to be a grown up. It was all a bit of a shame, hopefully the evenings and weekend will pick up as people finish work, a lot of people were hoping for a much needed business boost. The fair is on until close of play on Sunday 6 November and opens from 11 am to 9 pm.

Everything But The Goal For CD Tenerife

Grazing cattle, digging for buried treasure, or planting spuds, just what had SS Reyes done to their pitch for the visit of CD Tenerife? Despite a stampede towards goal all game CD Tenerife just couldn’t score and had to settle for a O-O draw although the gardeners nightmare of a pitch couldn’t be blamed.

With Luna suspended local boy Ayoze Placeres made his seasonal debut in the heart of defence with Tarantino at left back and Cristobal filling the right slot. Tenerife came out flying, Perona fed Kiko who turned and lashed a shot at the home goalie. Zazo looked sharp too trying a long lob that just went over the bar and giving second best to a defender a few minues later trying to pop the ball in at the post. Chechu Flores (above) got busy down the wing hurdling a few defenders before the keeper blocked him and Tacon put his long range effort wide. Very encouraging with Reyes hardly making a mark.

Cristobal slipped as Reyes woke up and mounted an attack, the defender recovered well and headed an attempted cross out of play. Bravo was on the bench again but Kiko was showing his worth with an ambitious back header while at the other end Medina missjudged the bounce of the ball but the incoming attacker fired wide. The last 10 minutes of the half were a little jittery as the Sanse side warmed to their task. During the break the groundsman planted a few more turnips and carrots but thankfully was stopped from bringing the chickens back out. Kiko opened the second half challenging the keeper for a high ball at the post, the stopper just came out on top.The big forward then showed his skill chesting the ball down perfectly with his back to goal to invite a Zazo shot that went wide.

Victor Bravo came on for Perona and was soon into the attack with a clear run on goal that the home keeper did well to smother. On came Nico for Kiko giving a complete change to the attack. Nico made a good chance on the right only to see Bravo’s shot find the goalie. A draw was looking the likely outcome but Sergio had a hairy moment in Tenerife’s goal, needing a second attempt to grab the ball with Reyes closing in on goal. Ferran Tacon (above) had the last couple of chances, skipping along the edge of the box and shooting wide with after a fruitless wait for support, in the dying seconds he went down in the area but there was no contact, no appeal and no score as the final whistle went.

Apathy Rules At Arona Anti Corruption March

Politicians? If they said it was Monday I’d immediately check my calendar, I don’t trust any of them. Here in the municipality of Arona there is not so much an anger against the local council, more like a general tut tutting over the morning coffee. Legal cases have been brought against 34 local councillors of all political parties for alleged corruption but it’s all a long drawn out process that will run and run.

Long serving Alcalde (mayor) Jose Alberto Gonzalez Reveron of the Coalicion Canarias has come in for particular stick and is one of the charged. The main complaints refer to business licences granted between 2003 and 2007 and the latest revelation is that all parties have agreed to pay 140,000 euros for the defence of the accused politicians.Anyway against this backdrop a Anti Corruption march was called for Saturday 29 October, meeting up at the court building on the edge of Las Americas and marching to the Los Cristianos cultural centre.

I popped along to have a look, the roads were heavily marshalled by police and civil protection but the protesters only numbered around 200, including a coach bringing protesters from as far away as Icod and Candelaria. The group included families with small children, political groups such as Partido Communista del Pueblo Canarioand the Alternativa Nacionalista Canaria – oh and a few subversive looking dogs. The march was noisy with horns and drums as they moved slowly down one carriageway of Avenida de Chayofita past the sports centre before turning off for the cultural centre and speeches.

People in bars that they passed showed little reaction, preferring to watch football on television. Maybe we do get what we deserve, the local elections were on 22 May and only 48.5 % (myself included) of the Arona electorate turned out to vote, the lowest percentage in Tenerife. Meanwhile the court cases rumble on – slowly.

Wind In My Hair (And The Turbines) In La Sabinita

Aah a pleasant peaceful morning in La Sabinita up above Arico – well apart from the mobile advertising boards known as rally cars zooming up the road. To be fair it was a big rally day in Tenerife and they were warming up for the big event as they tore through the main village street and it didn’t really disturb our pre walk coffee at the Casa Lala bar. Craving more walks I had met up with a group of 25 keen social walkers in Los Cristianos and our convoy had headed high up the TF 625.

There was a bracing breeze but it was balanced by warm sunshine and just a scattering of clouds. Parking up at the start point a little north of the village we were on the brow of a hill looking down to the wind turbines in Arico, some say they are intrusive but I find them quite restful and serene. This is wine country and vineyards were plentiful but bare of their fruit in the coarse jable soil with metal pipes feeding water where the stone channels had once done the job. The first steps were downward and once protected from the breeze it got much warmer as we passed over small barrancos that parted the pine trees on their way down to the coast.

The pathway was partly concreted and pretty sturdy where it was just tightly packed soil, handy as access to several houses that were built into the side of the hill making full use of solar and wind power, impressive stuff. Then came the inevitable upward climb as the course weaved around in a wide circle, the terraced hillsides became a familiar pattern as we dipped and rose. Clouds were gathering higher up but not with enough threat to worry us, a joint complex of fincas (farms) loomed ahead and as we got nearer I was surprised to see the maintenance man from my complex painting a wall – it’s a small island.

Stopping for a rest and water we found seating on rocks overlooking the path and must have looked like an ambush waiting to happen,but we were friendly natives. The final stage brought us onto sturdy roads as the clouds linked up and a last push rewarded us with the familiar coastline as we came down onto the car park where we started. Just a bit over 2 hours, shorter than most of my walks but a good way to get my legs moving again and enough to make me determined to tread more tracks soon.

CD Tenerife Winning – Come In Victor Bravo – Over

So many good things to say today about a game that had everything, including the right result, 3-1 for CD Tenerife at home to Rayo Vallecano B. The crowd were whipped up into a patriotic frenzy with a fantastic home made terrace mosaic of the Canarian independence flag, following yesterdays celebration of its founding. That buzz seemed to infect the players as they started at a cracking pace with both sides creating chances. More changes saw Cristobal at right back, Tarantino left back, and Perona up front with Kiko and Zazo supporting in a four man midfield.

The shape looked good, Chechu Flores, fit at last, was hard working and productive and Zazo was always looking to attack the Rayo defence. The visitors looked one of the better sides to come to Santa Cruz, former Pio Rayco was a handful but Medina was a rock at the heart of the defence. The consistent defender squeezed a promising Rayo attack wide of the post after 20 minutes and a few minutes later Tenerife charged forward and a blatant foul on Zazo in the box produced a penalty. Thankfully Kiko has lost that little job and Perona calmly placed the ball in the bottom right of the net as the goalie dived the other way.

Chechu was alert soon after to pounce on a poor clearance by the keeper and his cross to Kiko deserved a better finish. Into the second half, Perona was having a personal duel with a visiting defender but that was leaving space for the other Tenerife players to exploit, Kiko (above) drilled a shot wide that should have increased the lead. Coach Calderon made a double change bringing Victor Bravo and Meji on for Chechu and Perona, it had an instant effect as Bravo smashed home a goal with his first touch of the ball. Just when it looked comfortable Luna got a straight red for a foul in the Rayo box, he was certainly the last defender and once a foul was called he had to go. Rayco stepped up to make it 2-1 and put the pressure on 10 man Tenerife.

Some quick juggling saw Kitoko drop back into the centre of defence, a role he always fills with assurity, Calderon made his last switch adding Marcos for Kiko and Bravo took the main forward role. Ferran Tacon (above)was in tormenting form down the right and chances were coming frequently for CDT. After 82 minutes Bravo saw his chance and shook off his marker to blast his second goal and kill off Rayo’s hopes. That didn’t stop Tenerife from pushing for more, Bravo came close to a hat trick lobbing the oncoming keeper but sadly he was offside. There was still time for a comedy moment as the ref reversed and tumbled slowly to the ground, off course we all gave him the utmost sympathy for his loss of face. At least his whistle was undamaged and he was able to blow for time to close a very rewarding and entertaining afternoon.