A 460 metres drop from a modern concrete bridge gave me a tempting reminder of the Barranco La Orchilla ravine as it snaked its way down from Granadilla to San Miguel. It was a relatively cool June day as the Titsa bus delivered me further uphill to the basic Granadilla bus station from my Los Cristianos start. Now for the fun part as I retraced the bus wheels before begining a spiralling trek into the ravine,  pushing the bridge to the edge of my vision as my feet tried to be nimble among the loose stones and trailing ferns.

The top half of the walk was a split of modern concrete and an untamed growth of long grass and remains of cereal crops trailing away to the sun kissed coast of El Medano. Charco del Pino provided a delightful interuption as I walked up to the mirador view point behind the small church of San Luis Rey de Francia. The spread of stone dwellings and a steep walkway down to a smaller point of reflection over the largely unchanged views harked back to the importance of the Camino Real royal route that spread commerce between Granadilla and the south.

The barranco a few yards beyond was the big draw for me. A well worn path teased me along at a gentle descent before opening up to the steeper sides and  and uneven surfaces. Even the air seemed to change, warmer and full of the buzz of insects, many flies took a closer interest in me in small swarms – fair play as I was disturbing their world. Lichens are a big star in the Tenerife barrancos, clinging to precarious rocks in an array of green and yellow shades. Cochineal insects living on cactus plants put the Canary Islands on the rag trade map in the 19th century, secreting natural colour dyes, but lichens weren´t far behind and also boosted trade.

The small plant like life lichens clung to every rock and bush, and around me down in the bowl of the barranco. Their value has long been replaced with artificial colourings but they still live in happy retirement in the more remote areas of Canarian land. Cactus flowers speckled my progress down the steep side before I hit rock bottom where soft echoes of bird song added to the serene feel. Having done the walk before, my eyes soon found the outline of the upward trail to the lip of the ravine. This ascent brought its own challenges as powder dry earth filtered away under foot. Looking back from the other side of the track confirmed my appreciation of nature´s alluring mix.

Meanwhile up top, the modern road curled the long way through high sided rock faces which were drilled out mechanically in recent time of expansion in Tenerife. The barking of dogs told me that there were small farms at the top of the ravine side, rural areas still feature many variations on old pursuits. Cresting the hill, a choice of gravel tracks leading to the modern main road meant my feet would soon get some rest. The margins are tight for walkers using these driving routes so caution and agility are useful. Even in this final stretch there was another joy in the sculpted shape of hunting dogs, a fitting link to a still popular past time.

San Miguel was just a few more strides away with its choice of bars and cafes to quench the first from the two hour escapade. As always, it was a pleasure to dip into the heritage of Tenerife to discover how hard work propelled the local economy.

Diverging destinations dominated CD Tenerife´s last home game of the 2022 – 2023 season. Coach Ramis is moving on after 123 games in charge, and 39 year old Carlos Ruiz ended his 10 year devotion to the heart of the Tenerife defence. A hard fought 2-1 home win over Burgos CF was a fitting send off, as Waldo and Mo Dauda showed glimpses of what could come next season. No longer a regular starter, the number 14 turned back the clock with a trade mark display of confidence and pride, and in the 14th minute the crowds prolonged ovation rung out.

Both teams were destined to finish just outside the promotion play off zone, even if they won both remaining games, but there was still business to be seen to. Burgos found home goalie Soriano alert during early breaks, but the role of party pooper went to Gaspar Campos who gave defender Mellot the slip after 40 minutes and grabbed the lead. There will be many summer changes at the Heliodoro, Mo Dauda has mainly had a late sub role, partly due to injuries, but taking over from Borjs Grces after 62 minutes, he pressed his claims for a bigger role next season.

Fast and strong, Mo squirmed and wriggled his way past the visiting defence and was unlucky to see his cclose up shot cleared. Coming back for more, the loan striker showed quick thinking to pounce on the ball at the post to level the game. The players showed they were keen to deliver the perfect result for their departing friends, Mo was in the mix again, allowing Waldo to cat another impressive game with an injury time strike. Despite drawn out deliberations from VAR, the goal stood despite claims of a hand ball bt Sergio Gonzalez. The final whistle saw Ramis hoisted into the air, and Carlos engulfed by appreciative players of both sides. The applause rained down from all sides of the ground as Carlos headed for the home goal for more cascades of thanks and admiration.

LAST ACT – A 1-1 draw at Real Zaragoza, at the end of the week, rounded off the season. Ex CDT player Mollejo pounced on a rare slip by goalie Soriano for a first half lead but Mo Dauda did it again with a superb injury time leveller from an acute angle past a defender and the goalie. CD Tenerife finished in 10th place in the Segunda and a few days later confirmed Asier Garitano as new coach. The players report back for pre season on 5 July, no rest for the club management though as strengthening the squad begins.

Less reliance on the big hotel chains, and more rural tourism is a popular call in Tenerife, but maybe some people think it means giving up their creature comforts. That seemed a laughable idea on my latest trek down from Ifonche, just below Vilaflor. Within a few strides along the path from the Titsa bus stop, I had spotted four restaurants, including a new offering, Finca Tres Roques, a short stroll from the track.

Hermano Pedro´s name was proudly linked to one of the eateries, as the Canary Islands only saint grew up in this area. A small chapel and fountain further ahead, underlined the links with the goat herder who took his healing mission to Guatamala in later life. Working fincas (farms) and a constant trickle of walkers weaved towards the three peaks of th volcanic mountains that dominate the region.

The landscape is mainly gentle on the feet but a large barranco just beyond the chapel called for nimble foot work to dip down and then seek decent foot holds on the upward bank of the ravine. A large private dwelling inland from my goat like scrambling showed how some properties have had modern make overs for the best of all worlds. This has always been a favourite walk of mine so I knew that the key was to aim up and past a neglected old house on the lip of the barranco.

As so often on these walks, a great effort was rewarded by the views as I sat on the edge of a threshing circle that panned across the three dominant peaks. A good place for a breather, water, and a feast for the eyes. Then the hardest part of the walk beckoned, skirting down and around a twisting path that opened up rewarding views of Roque del Conde, the peak that looks down on Los Cristianos, Arona, and Adeje.

Nearer to the lower slopes of Conde, the terracing of the fields showed how locals eeked out a living growning crops in this exposed area. At times the path offers choices, the mantra to remember is to progress with Conde to your right and move downwards away from the sea view. The finish point of Arona town began to loom up ahead but a tight, deep barranco called for more agile steps as I descended into the cool floor of the ravine. It was fairly quiet but birds were carrying on their day with little regard for this noisy interlooper. On past trips I have sen goats being herded up narrow paths and barbary partridge chicks getting parental guidance.

The walk took nearly four hours with plenty of rests and the final leg led past a small village and into the town of Arona with a couple of cafes and a bus link back down to Los Cristianos. Even on repeat visits, I always find new pleasures and refresh my thirst for the rural wonders of Tenerife.

Promotion hot shots Levante UD froze in the Santa Cruz spotlight as all the action came from the hosts. As Gerard Butler filmed his latest  movie just down the road, CD Tenerife shook off their negative tag for their own all action show, and were unlucky not to create a bigger margin than their 1-0 win.

The home defence made telling contributions to the early pressure with right back Mellot and confident loan centre back Kike Salas pushing forward. Belief grew for the white shirts as the red and blues struggled to keep up with the home pace. Gallego dragged a shot wide and Mellot blasted a shot wide of the other post. It was looking surprisingly one sided for Tenerife.

After the break, Alexandre tested the Levante goalie before Gallego grabbed a 53rd minute lead with a powerful header from a Nacho cross, the forwards 11 th strike of the season. Brazilian forward Wesley, a former Aston Villa player, showed a little resistance but Tenerife always looked comfortable.

Both teams made wholesale late changes, Alex Munoz got a mixed reception on his return to the Heliodoro in an away shirt, while Tenerife gave more playing time to fringe players. Mo Dauda shone in a free central strikers role that allowed him to show off his delicate lay offs. Pressure is a big leveller, Levante were cowering below their promotion task, but Tenerife were unshackled with the faint relegation threat evaporated. Just three league games remain, a new coach waits in the wings, young players have been promised more opportunities, and the feel good factor is seeping back in.

No glorious ride into the sunset. More like a slow plod to mid table mediocrity for CD Tenerife. The visit of CD Leganes ended in a 1-0 win with hands making more impact than feet. Home coach Ramis had confirmed he would not be renewing his contract for the remaining five games and it added to the feeling of nothing to play for.

A Leganes hand ball foiled an early home raid, after the usual lengthy VAR discussion, Gallego stepped up to convert the penalty after 10 minutes. It was the 10th goal for the stocky forward, his previous strikes had already confirmed a contractual further year at the club. Some fans have been critical of Gallego, but there is a lack of team mates vying for his top scorer title, one of many areas that await the attention of the next coach.

Neither side showed much urgency but Karrikaburo came closest to levelling the score. Rearing down on home stopper Soriano, the striker was shepherded to a wide acute position in a superb master class of the goalies art. It was good to see Ramis giving second half run outs to Mo Dauda and briefly to Javi Alonso, both have something to offer the squad. Teto could have made the biggest impact, he clipped the crossbar soon after taking to the pitch.

It was a typical late season game from two teams in no mand land between promotion and relegation and hardly ruffled the feathers of the 11,000 crowd. Names of a new coach and incoming players are pinging around at the moment but just as important is to fight of overtures to the current best players. Waldo and Nacho are two of the more recent signings that have grown into their roles but the front line definately needs some new blood.

Accessing the heights of nature and history, the small settlement of Las Vegas is not the only famous name associated with the higher end of Granadilla. Looking down from the compact church, Ermita de Nuestra Senora de La Esperanza (our lady of hope) the south east coast stretched from El Medano along to the wind turbines of Arico. Looking upwards, a cathedral of pine forest rose towards the Guajara mountain, second only to the peak of Mount Teide in height. I fel honoured to be walking in the foot steps of Scotlands astronomer royal, Charles Piazzi Smyth who popped over in 1856.

The rising and intersecting pathways were steep but well maintained and sign posted, allowing for several different routes to take. The area has always boasted a bounty of food and natural industry, figs, almonds, and the cereal gofio were a mainstay of local life and their legacy could be seen in the stone kilns and a large water mill, preserved but now replaced by the march of time. Las Vegas means “the meadows” and the green lower slopes provide the inspiration for that.

It´s an area of contrasts with dense forest areas rubbibg noses with dried streams and shadey gathering spots, ideal for a water and sarnie break. There are steeply rising tracks that skirt the tree line, and dipping paths that offer a front row seat to the magnificent views down to the coast. On this very hot day there were only a few other walkers and a sense of that pioneer spirit when emerging into clearings that offer glimpses of the rural history.

With plenty of shade and drink rests, it turned into a near six hour walk before arriving back at the church and small car park in Las Vegas. Testing on the feet but rewarding on the senses, the walk offered plenty of contrasts of terrain but paid out a real jackpot in terms of sights and sounds.

You can only beat whats put in front of you, or so goes the football saying. Even so, this rampant 4-0 home win for CD Tenerife over UD Ibiza, has to be measured by the visitors almost certain impending relegation. It took just 13 minutes for the goals to start flowing, left back Nacho powered down the flank before crossing for Romero to head past the keeper.

The spirited but limited opponents provided a great oportunity for Tenerife fringe players to stake their claims for next seasons squad. Waldo has only shown glimpses of his potential this season but he shone for the second goal, a left side raid, finished with a close up dribble that exposed the Ibaza goalie. Some of the more consistent Tenerife players are drawing admiring glances from rival teams, Right back Mellot was the instigator of a stylish third goal, his raid, finished with a close up dribble that exposed the Ibaza goalie, the French defenders long ball led to a hanging cross that Gallego hooked into the net from a tight angle.

The home pace slackened a little in the second half as changes were made, including home debuts for the January transfer window loanees Kike Salas, and Dirmisi. Sipcic has grown in stature this season with his defensive control, but the powerful centre back needs to show he can chip in with a few goals at the other end. Coming off the bench, the Montenegro international pushed up and delivered a bullet header past the goalie with his first touch of the game.

A satisfying afternoon in front of a 13,799 crowd, boosted by another ticket promotion – this one to mark the previous days International Day Of The Child. With six league games left, Tenerife have some big decisions to make in advance of the next campaign. Coach Ramis, perceived as favouring a defensive style, will point to this big win as he negotiates a possible contract extension. The introduction of more locally produced young players will also help the coach´s case. Promotion play offs are out of reach and any relegation threat is all but banished, so a push for the highest possible finish remains a noble cause.

Of the many ways to view the passion and resserection of Christ, Guia de Isora, above the west coast of Tenerife, offers a unique and innovative art trail.

The thirteenth year of the four day Pascua Florida spread of floral art threaded through the tight back streets, and reclined under the trees and in the shadow of the Nuestra Señora de La Luz church (our lady of the light). Local based and invited artists from further afield choose their materials well to evoke the story of blood, flesh, and spirit. Among the 22 works, circles and vines were a recurring theme of new hope.

A backward reaching wooden figure was a reminder of the spirit breaking free of the body. Floating figures in cubes also showed the struggle to break away from mortal ties. Blood made a strong image of suffering on the cross, in the church plaza the cross weeped red and a wooden matraca stood nearby. The machine was used in the past to produce dry, wooden, sour notes as a contrast to the normal peal of the bells.

Some works aroused instant connections but others were more obscure. Dice were the currency used by Roman centurian guards when they competed to see who would lay claim to the blood soaked robe of christ. Walls of old buildings dripped with larger plant based mosaics, and at every turn, new surprises awaited.

Over the four days of the display, musical interludes were performed in the streets and alleys. Some of the images take their place each year, with little tweaks and additions, but there are always new views to see and new interpretations to admire. Maybe not the most famous of Tenerife´s easter events, Pascua Florida always packs an artistic punch and shows true dedication.

Linking over 300 years of classic Canarian architecture with modern tourism needs has given a new purpose to the three storey basalt stonework and large courtyard of Palacio de Carta in Santa Cruz. The newly re-opened building is now a tourism hub complete with interactive screens, a video wall, and personal advice and help for those intending to explore the Tenerife capital and all points beyond.

The location is very appropriate, Plaza de La Candelaria throbs with Carnaval and other celebrations throughout the year, and is at the port end of the busiest shopping street in the city. The classic grey building has seen it all down the years since the Carta family of the first mayor of Santa Cruz drew up the plans in 1721.

The recent reserection to glory was lovingly chronicled step by step and is displayed in Spanish and English, and illustrated with samples of original stone work, and even ancient keys with sturdy and ornate covers. All the space was gets a chance to tell its historic tale, a vertical garden feature draws attention to the wooden balconies that framed them.

It´s a living space with three exhibition halls, and staff to steer visitors to history around Tenerife. It was an inspired choice to move the capitals tourism centre to this spacious and iconic setting. Opening hours are Monday to Friday 9 am to 5 pm, Saturday and Sunday from 9 to 2 pm.

Long serving CD Tenerife fans have always expected the unexpected from their heroes but this 4-1 home blitz of UD Las Palmas from Gran Canaria was as surprising as the high octane style of play that earned the bragging rights. Goals have been as fleeting as Haileys Comet in the Heliodoro but Enric Gallego took the game by the scruff of the neck within 25 seconds of kick off. A pacey raid down the right and the big striker picked out the top corner of the goal with precision and power.

There was hardly time to celebrate before Tenerife were two goals to the good, the big man latched onto a nifty build up and subtle pass from Romero, and cracked the ball past the bewildered keeper. Life has been getting better by the day for Gallego, he celebrated his goal haul and upcoming status as a first time father, as the near 18,000 crowd roared their approval. With Las Palmas praying for the halft time whistle, Romero put a weak shot wide, but he was back again with a deep midfield pass for the hard working Waldo to make it 3-0 from a tight angle at the break.

Las Palmas looked shell shocked and their travelling fans were stunned into silence. Tenerife kept up the pressure as the game resumed. Even changes to the starting line up failed to derail Tenerife, David Rodriguez, another youth product got a rare run out. After 81 minutes Las Palmas finally did something when Alvaro Jimenez threaded through the home defence to score a consolation goal. The final word had to belong to CD Tenerife, in injury time Cardona made a clumsy foul and Nacho stepped up to top a wonderful evening for the home fans.