Red and white stripes usually warn of wild seas but all was becalmed on a December afternoon stroll through the most inviting atmosphere of the east coast of Tenerife. Wind rurbines were frantically setting their own pace but the sea was still as boats bobbed lightly. Abades a little further south, normally gets the first feel of my toes but the sandstone and peeling paintwork made for a less formal view from the white blocks of houses at the Arico end.
A variety of coves, walkways, and boat launch sites had encouraged a sparse but splash happy few local families. There were rell tale signs of more hostile waves in rocks that were split apart like bread fresh from the oven. As the motorway pounded along at a higher level, a gentle grsdient led down to the lapping waves.
The gentle shelving allowed swimmers to stand waist high while new foot marks made their signature as children slid down the banked fine sand. It was like the coast was breathing with relief after an ambitious plan for three large new hotels came to nothing on the expanse of Abona that juts out into the sea.
The lighthouse looked magnificent in traditional candy stripes. More ancient intrusions on the skyline added character, the old rock stack chimney led onto the deserted shells of the intended leper colony that overlooks Abades. Time and a cure for the ancient curse denied the need for the mini village but the graffiti and murals add to the surreal feel of the area.
Abades was its usual friendy and welcoming self, slightly less water sports craft adorned rhe beaches but there are always plenty of nice hollows to cosey down in before rushing into the sea. An array of partially marked out plots is a throwback to an earler age of planned mass development. A new apartment block nestled low level near the shore, already winning converts to this special part of Tenerife. Long may it prosper in ts comfortable bubble.
Minus the wind and swirling sand of recent years, Los Cristianos beach was a much more sedate place to be on Christmas Day morning 2021 for the carol singing. The Swallows, our very active mature visitors from the UK were in good voice and very well organised.
It´s not easy rotating song sheets, props for the 12th Day Of Christmas, and fitting in food and drink, all between Covid masks and spacing. All the usual songs were rolled out, Oh Come All Ye Faithful, Silent Night, and of course the frantic 12 Days.
It was a good start to a fairly busy day, despite challenging restrictions for visitors to negotiate, most revellers were moving on later to meals and drinks – all fuel to the battered local economy. Up north of Santa Cruz, the music was mising but the hot sun packed Las Teresitas beach. A rousing start to the day – even those on sun beds were huming alomg in Los Cristianos.
Slippers seemed to be on for CD Tenerife in the second half of their home league game with Lugo. Elady had atoned for two glaring misses with a 38th minute strike but a VAR assisted penalty allowed the visitors a late equaliser and they nearly stole all three points with the final kick of the game.
A few days later, Eibar arrived for the Copa del Rey , and Tenerife were up against it after a 11th minute slip by Shaq Moore let in Garcia to grab the lead. There´s no VAR in the cup but Tenerife fans found themselves wishing there was when two home goals were ruled out and a Sam Shasoua penalty appeal was ignored. Sergio Gonzalez powered a header to level late on but the ref was suckered into giving Eibar a generous free kick after Exposito clashed with Mollejo and made out the home player had mugged him. The free kick was well taken but veteran home goalie Dani Hernandez looked a little slow to respond and narrow the angle. So farewell to the Cup.
Putting two good halfs together has become a problem for Tenerife lately, rash of bookings didn´t help in the league clash, The cup is often a stage to test fringe players, CDTs only concession was to give a first half run out to 21 year old Thierno on the left flank, The young gun put in some good crosses but it only served to expose the weaknesses of Emmanuel Apeh who backs off defenders too easily. Yhierno gave way to Sam Shashoua for the second half and Shaq Moore was back to his tough tackling best and Jeremy Mellot arrived to fill the left back slot – an answer as how to use the impressive American and French full backs together instead of a straight choice.
A bad week? Well one of the finest qualities of this Tenerife squad is its resilience, and once again they bounced back, this time with a stunning 0-2 win at Real Zaragoza to close the first half of the season. Elady with his 7th strike of the season, and Mollejo, had the game all gift wrapped within the half hour. That was sauce for the turkey as it put Tenerife in 3rd place, just a point behind the 2nd automatic promotion slot. As the players enjoy their parties, the club management will be working on fine tuning the squad in the January transfer window. 2022 could be an epic year, lets just hope we can continue to watch the games live.
Surging up off the motorway to Adeje town , visitors are used to a few well placed guardians looking over them. Christmas 2021 has added a whole new colourful level starting with a candle powered lantern on the rim of the barranco del infierno.
The Guanche warrior stayed true to his vigil as reindeer and sleighs eased in alongside him. The tolling of the festive season was well heralded by giant bells and holly leaves. The faithfull bombero (fireman) hardly flinched at his new neighbour.
The theme carried on up to Calle Grande where guards stood alert with candy canes by their sides. More surprises lurked higher up the street near the Plaza de España. A royal red post box awaited requests for the three kings, well it´s good to post early. This years new special addition was a high tech interactive belen collection of nativity scenes and sounds. QR access ensured a personal link to a world of visions and inspirations.
Just around the top road, the new multi storey car park made a perfect station for a very special vehicle pulling in. Nature added its own special backdrop and even the church steps had a scattering of the giant holly. It was the diversity and colour that turned a warm winter afternoon into a wonderland. The large plaza and the modern, upwardly expanding cultural centre stood ready to host a wide range of events across the festive season. Just follow that candy.
When tourist coaches spread their loads around Tenerife, many people hold onto their first impressions of an unfamiliar resort. That´s why I was overjoyed at the cleaming white new coat on MYND Adeje Hotel. Gone is the fire damaged former squat, so no more distraction from the arch to Sueño Azul one way, and the dark sand beach and coastal path back to Playa Paraiso the other way.
A work still in progress, the hotel flower borders were being sculpted, sports courts and sandy play areas were being laid, and small outside pools were coming on strong. Part of a new chain, the hotel will be followed by a similar plot at Playa Blanca, Lanzarote.
It was enough to make me leap off and swap Titsa buses for a change of plans, pitching up at Alcala, a little further north along the coast, and with an early eye on christmas. News of the completion of the coastal walkway to El Varadero and on to Los Gigantes was a loose end I couldn´t ignore. La Jaquita beach coves were a popular stop with there full range of cafes, toilets, lifeguards, and neat landscaping.
Rounding the main cove, the clear but unobtrusive path offered confort, shade, and even a few artistic designs. An hours link to the main road exit and busy resort of Playa de la Arena, and Puerto Santiago looked good with the protective fencing now removed. Nature had room to spread a little and was growing into its new home.