In a zone where barrancos /ravines) slice deeply and rise majestically, there´s a little treat nestled in the shadows of Charco del Pino. A small reservoir of lime green was just part of the reward on a neat, modern, stone stairway down to a couple of front row benches in the folds of Granadilla. Barranco Chinama is not the biggest or most well known of the craggy trails, but its understated approach threading around a cluster of modern homes make it well worth a detour.

I had admired the walkway before from the higher vantage point of the small church of San Luis Obispo, the name being influenced by the King of France who ordered the seizing of Christs crown of thorns from the Holy Land to Paris during the crusades.

The meandering Chinama path stands out from the circular high point behind the church, but gives just a hint of the soothing prescence of the across the way. Passing through an initial cluster of modern houses, the path twists and turns via a rest stop half way down with another wooden bench and a well maintained waste bin. However it is the bigger picture of  resting at the end of the trail as nature paints its picture in the direction of the coast of El Medano. Beware that there is no natural route onward and further down from this small wonder, but it is well worth taking the short detour down and back up to get a feel for the history and culture of the area.

The pool (charco) is barely a puddle in hotter times but the ravine floor retains moisture below a sandy bed, part of the rason for the vibrant pool colour. This access to water has always been a magnet to farmers and traders as they took their home produce to coastal markets, and played its part in the growth of Granadilla. As sports cyclists whizz by, and walkers survey the rolling hills inland, the charco is in no hurry and provides another dimension to the popular main routes.

As land marks go, a full size figure of a Guanche warrior makes a striking bus stop. The 1996 sculpture by Carmen Luis Leon harked back to a turbulent past when leaping to certain death was preferred to subserviance to the invading Spanish conquistadores. A brighter and more modern look greeted me on the fringes of Icod de Alto, where seven distinct areas of cultivation and farming were marked by tall masts close to the church.

On a baking hot day, the cool, shade and breezes of north Tenerife were the ideal way to sample a more sedate past and a pride in nature. Bridging the busier municipalities of Icod de Los Vinos, and Los Realejos, a good hourly bus service from TITSA enabled me to rise above the frantic pace of life below on the modern motorway. On this visit there were no present day walkers making the epic hike from the coast and upward to the Corona forest, and the defiant statue shared its focal point with a neglected shelter and a memorium to a hunters loyal dog. But history still seemed to bristle in the air and beckoned me on to Icod El Alto.

The main street of Icod El Alto soon revealed more declarations of pride and a strongly forged partnership with nature. A scattering of bars and cafes mingled in with more well crafted focal points of celebration. Local poet, Antonio Reyes surveyed the scene from his mounted steed, and seemed to show mutual admiration for the more recent graffiti art contribution of Sabotaje El Montaje, a well respected Tenerife filler of large solid canvases.

Neat, compact, and with plenty of community pride, Icod El Alto had surprises at every turn. A multi focus tribute to the well tended plants rode the brow of a hill, and a decorated bus stop for the hourly green public buses, all added to the pleasant distractions.

The dominant figures from all angles were still the masts, but I got the feeling there would be plenty more new touches across future seasons.

From the top of the TF1 motorway to the depths of the sea, Radazul nestled in a blanket of wispy clouds that framed the diverse lower neighbour of the Tenerife capital, Santa Cruz. After years of whizzing by as the TITSA bus eats up the last 15 minutes of the hours travel from north to south, it was time to see what the often overlooked area had to offer. Off the 111 bus from Los Cristianos, I eased down the deep sloping road and was struck by the modern circular design of the OAP centre (people of the third age is a much better locally used title) and came face to face with some colourful murals with youthful themes. As the road gave way to the first view point, I was rewarded with the sight of a patchwork of beaches sharing the coast with marinas. A thin ribbon of cloud showed no urgency to upset the balance and tranquility.

The main paved paths down from the start did hint at a testing walk back up later but the wo storey CC Radazul shopping centre gave me a good excuse to check out views from inside. I was an easy and willing target for the Arte Sano cafe with its home made cakes to acompany my coffee. The adjoing arts and crafts shop was the paying point for my refreshment. They scored another direct hit as I spotted two books about the history of CD Tenerife team – my usual reason for heading up the motorway. Pressing on with my downward walk to beach level, the unusual designs for the apartment blocks showed that a lot of thought had gone into building the urban heart.

A choice had to be taken at sea level, the small Playa La Nea beach headed up towards Santa Cruz with a 2010 Fernando Mena sculpture El Ojo del Calamar holding my attention before turning  south along the coast past the dog park and on to the begining of the marinas. Looking up, motorway level looked a steep climb away but the beach walkway had plenty more to offer. I had a faint memory of reading some years ago that Radazul was proud to add a Pisces 6 deep diving vessel, the yellow bubble looked to be still getting plenty of dives for scientific research, dive tourism, and film and production work. The sun and fresh air was working it´s own charms a little further along at an informal, cafe near the shingle beach.

I always like to see signs of community involvement on my days out, Radazul had many from another dive school backing coastal clean ups, to a book swap point just a salty breeze away from the sea. Radazul, part of the El Rosario municipality, is well worth diving into.

DONG! Every 15 minutes the bells of the Torre de la Concepcion chime, but it still made me skip a beat as I looked out over the panoramic views of Tenerife´s majestic university city of La Laguna.

The seven storey time piece didn´t have a mammoth ascent but contrasts stretched out in all directions as a chill breeze wafted in between the stone masonry windows. The three parralell main streets of the city were bustling with visitors and residents as commerce rubbed shoulders with religon, theatre, and history.

On the day of my latest visit, several smaller connecting streets were sealed as part of the European Day Without Cars, a welcome chance for the area to take a well earned breather. Looking out from my high perch, there were other signs of change, such as solar panels on roofs of old beautifull buildings.

Tenerife North airport, the original landing strip for the island, was busy as ever as planes skipped just above the tall green hills. There have always been storys about the poor choice for this modern addition, even now the clouds sometimes settle so low they cause cancellations in high summer.

The tower is great value at 2 euros, which includes a look inside the old church next door, opening times are Monday 10 to 2 pm, Tuesday to Friday 10 to 5pm. . For modern splendour, the La Laguna cathedral is a must to visit, and only a short walk back down into the main streets. At the other end of the construction range, the old bus station has been bought by the coumcil (ayuntamiento) and may well be demolished. It was replaced by a gleaming, modern building a decade ago, that dove tails nicely with the tram service between La Laguna and Santa Cruz.

I had mixed feelings about this old interchange, but the churros and chocolate bar was always a favourite of mine. Hopefully the balance between old and new will continue to respect the importance of the city to the spiritual and educational history of Tenerife.

With an almost hypnotic pull, the coast of Tenerife attracts a diverse range of visitors. Any of them popping into Amarilla Golf Marina will be pleased with the facelift that combines rest areas, childrens play zones, cycle lanes, and a clean, modern look.

Just a year since my last call, the transformation made a big difference. It was surely no conincidnce that the floating pontoons had more pleasure crafts and yachts in the water, plus more business units on the quay side offering a wider range of hire options with plenty of thrill rides.

The shoring up of the banking wall that shadows the golf course, added to the neat look with its white stone, it reflects well on the golf course as well, and presents a prettier wider picture. This first upgrade stage cost nearly one million euros, there´s more to come, extending the good work in a western direction. That should promote the walking options around the coast from Las Galletas and then onward to El Medano.

Looking down toward the airport and Montaña Roja (red mountain) improvements to the shingle and rock beach of Playa San Salvador has another six months to go. At present, a looping uphill detour to the promenade must put a few people off from visiting the cafes and bars along the strip. The marina has set a shining example of how to improve the area. I look forward to seeing the full stretch soon.

Grapes of all sizes, colours, and varieties formed a maze around me in the heart of Tegueste, one of the smallest municipalities in Tenerife. A series of walks shadowed the water channels that made this such a fertile spot for its founders in 1813.

Having just hopped off a Titsa bus from La Laguna to Bajamar and Punta del Hidalgo, I had already been distracted by the hills that shelter the original village and have fed its growth. Even the football ground of UD Tegueste has its claim to fame as the starting point for Barcelona and Spain star Pedri. There was further proof of the local sporting pedigree in the form of a statue of two grappling wrestlers, a homage to Lucha Canarias, a popular sport in the seven Canary Islands.

The finca Los Zamorano spread out beyond me with its promise of free strolling around the vineyards, and their well documented range of grapes made me feel quite thirsty. Opposite the Mercadillo provided an outlet for many local wines and products but I was a few days adrift of its opening times of 8am to 2 pm on Saturdays and Sundays. It was early in the growing season but the vast layout and photos of the spread gave me a good idea of the rich bounty of the region.

The heart of Tegueste was visible beyond with the white tower of the church providing a focal point to lead me to Plaza San Marcos. History is preserved in the nearby cultural centre, the Ayuntamiento (town hall) and will be added to soon with a new centre of archaeology. Among the tranquility there was a pride and desire to share the history and culture of the area. Walking is encouraged over several short routes, the main one covering 2 kms up to the Barranco Aqua de Dios (ravine of the water of the gods) and back through the village as a teaser for other longer walks leading down to the rugged La Laguna coast.

One visit always sows seeds for a follow up, I will be trying a few of the trails, and just down below on the main bus route is Tejina, but that´s for another day.

Oh the joys of wash day. Parque Las Lavanderas in El Sauzal has been pumping out 50 cubic metres of spring water an hour through the beautiful cascade of pools and greenery since it was formally welcomed into the caring arms of the municipality in 1987. Tenerife outdoor washing areas have always been a social gathering point and are conserved with pride.

I´m often waylaid by the latest artisitc masterpiece on the steep steps of the town hall. This time, sculptor  Luis Stinga had exceled himself with his tribute to this domestic chore that was transformed into a sicial occaision in the 8,000 square metre park, perched 200 metres above the coast line. Cafeteria Deleite nestles in the middle of the feast of nature, winter (september to may) opening is from 10 am to 7 pm. Most visitors can´t resist a wander around the split level pathways to spot dragon flies, fish, and lizards.

There´s plenty of pride in the local traditions of El Sauzal, posters invited entry to a photographic exhibition featuring the manzana reineta (Queen Apple), an import from France many decades ago that has won people over with its destinctive bitter sweet taste. I was also just a few days short of a classical instrument recital in a vineyard.

Like most remote rural areas, El Sauzal is constantly fighting to keep their population steady and thriving. A practical scheme backed by the Ayuntamiento (council) and the Gobierno (Canary Islands government) offers a 50% maximum grant of up to 10,000 euros to Spanish residents of El Sauzal, to rebuild properties that are in danger of being left to ruin. There are some impressive new residencies between the coast and the motorway linking Puerto de la Cruz and the capital Santa Cruz. Older buildings will now have an even chance of providing affordable homes as the municipality looks to the future.

With its modern outlook on old favourites, El Sauzal is always a good place to visit, I´m already looking forward to the festive season to see what adorns the town hall steps this year.

Just entering their fifth week of the Fiestas of Santisimo Cristo, a relaxed mood drifted through the back streets and plazas of Tacoronte. just 40 minutes on the Titsa bus from Tenerife capital city Santa Cruz. It would be hard to guess that Tenerife North airport was just over the horizon, the hills shield it from the former bus station plaza viewing point, which allowed nature to roll out below.

My focus for this latest visit was to see more of Santa Catalina church – and it impressed from all angles. Sebastian Machado, the founder of the municipality stood proud of the former hermitage that he had built in 1497. Curiously, different official notices identified the Portuguese founder as “a settler” and also “conqueror”. There´s no such difference of opinion about the founding of the main town of Tacoronte, founded in 1911 as noted on a sculpture on the top road.

Heading downward to the busy commercial streets, the theatre offered a range of live events, and the Plaza del Cristo further on is a big focal point for celebrations, and has plenty of references to the towns famous artist Oscar Dominguez who went on to wow the Spanish courts. Me eyes were drawn to the classic wooden balcony that frames La Casona within easy distance of the church.

Strikingly agricultural with its proud wine making tradition, Tacoronte boats a long stretch of black sand coast. El Pris and Mesa del Mar are both popular cooling off points and accessed by steep corkscrew roads. That pleasure would have to wait another day as my strides had already taken me further along to the neighbouring municipality of El Sauzal. There´s something for everyone along this north coast of Tenerife.

Unfurled towels and delicious smells ensured a busy Los Guios beach in Los Gigantes. Just a few months after my last call, a subtle dispersal of large rocks freed up more room to sun worship, and a bigger tapas terrace for the Rincon del Puerto below the cliff views.

August was in full swing, boosted by the big holiday break all over Spain, and locally the celebrations of the Virgen del Candelaria, the patrona and inspiration of the Canary Islands. Walking back through Los Gigantes and up above Crab Island natural pool, I was able to enjoy the full raised coastal walkway as it wrapped around Puerto de Santiago. The sturdy path offered changing views of rock fingers reaching out into the waves, and many seating areas to take a moment to admire the craggy landscape.

Carrying on to Puerto de Santiago´s pocket beach and fishermans moorings, there was a muscle tester walk up to street level but the views got more impressive as the thirst grew. Playa de La Arena beckoned next but I bus hopped onward to Alcala. I was less than complimentary when the modern church arrived a few years ago, but the fiestas had added explosions of colour to break up the start edges. Down below, Plaza del Llano was gearing up for more live music nights, just a few days after its sea launched midnight firework display. New flowers on the wooden cross reminded the sea bathers about the importance of this time of year.

The west coast sea was lively but not as harsh as it sometimes can be, it can change in the blink of an eye. Safety is always an important consideration, the One Up Totem stood guard, each pack inflates as it hits the sea, and they can be reused. Playa San Juan, Callao Salvaje, and Playa Paraiso could have extended my wander but I will delve into their latest attractions on my next wander up west.

Like the flip side of a valuable coin, I was looking out to the twin brother cliffs of Anaga and the distant rock spits of Almaciga – but this time from the La Laguna coast. Just 45 minutes on the 050 Titsa bus down through thriving towns like Tejina, and Tegueste, delivered me to the welcoming statues and a rough road to the Camino Punta del Hidalgo.

The rugged north coast of Tenerife has long drawn visitors up and over Santa Cruz and Las Teresitas beach. Here though the old crumbling houses and an abandoned car gave way to a gallery of murals but they couldn´t detract from the outstanding beauty on offer. The immaculate and colourful Hermita de San Juanito was further proof that I was on the right course. Rock pools made  a cool enticing mosaics as they stretched out to where the sea lapped gently.

Many people immersed themselves in the series of shallow pools as others scanned the landscape for sea birds. Migrating species pass this way and add to the natural mix of local sea life and plants. This was the first time I had seen bird watching shelters at key points along a coastal walk in Tenerife. They contained pictures and details of the most common species that might grace this area, and thin viewing slots meant the birds wouldn´t get twitchy at their starring role. It all looked fairly new, even the bins were clad in wood and looked like they were regularly emptied. A pride and respect for nature is shared by local inhabitants who have a close dependency with nature.

A private sea water swimming complex was only in partial use, but there was a public access large rock pool further along on the walk. The sea was sedate  on my visit but it can turn quickly off the north coast. A white guardian stood guard on an exposed turn to beam out a warning to passing shipping. The lighthouse was built in 1994 and can be seen up to 15 nautical miles away. This late comer has never had any keepers, all the lighthouses around Tenerife are automated these days. Technology also showed its hand in the form of a water cleansing station just off the main trail.

It´s not a long walk, 2.3 kms one way, around 45 minutes, but it is easily accessable and very interesting. Further along, housing faces onto the route and the Altagay apartment complex offers a cafe. The 050 bus stops just up from the beach at this point, just opposite an eye catching fish sculpture made from discarded waste by Diedel Klover.I retraced my steps back to the start to get another eye full of the cliffs. The birds were a little shy on this trip, winter months will bring more migrating friends. It was a lovely uplifting walk and a nice insight into life on the exposed north coast.