Wine And Sugarcane Make La Recova A Sweet Temptation

Life is good on the other side of the tracks – especially on a Sunday morning. In this case I was surveying the vast spread of the Sunday street market in Santa Cruz, as it spread its arts, crafts, and collectables up a few port waves upwards to the La Recova market in the main crossroads where the new meets the old. Filtering up to La Recova full time market, I soon found myself in the company of wine gods, and two floors of refreshing food and drink.

Outside La Recova, the sculpted fishermen pushed their boat out under the arc entrance from the two floor, sun kissed all week shopping experience. La Recova has been a popular focal point since 1943, and always has something new to offer, alongside its proud history of show casing local food and drink. Bachus, the Roman god of wine was represented by three spirits that floated around the centre like they had just stepped out of a history book.

I was tempted by liquid refreshment of a sweet nature, as sugarcane was being crushed in a shredder before the healthy juices were served in chilled glasses. A notice proclaimed that the squeezed juice could encourage eternal youth – it might need a few gallons to turn back my clock. For something a bit more main stream, there is a very nice bar downstairs on the lower level. Promotions change through the year but you will find the market open dailñy from 7am to 2 pm.

 

Late Horror Show As CD Tenerife Victory Slips Away

Reality came crashing into CD Tenerife´s youth propelled revival as a harsh sending off saw a 2-0 leads turn into a 2-3 loss. Real Zaragoza are widely regarded as a certainty for promotion but Tenerife were all over them from the off. This weeks latest recruit from the youth ranks was Aaron Martin from La Orotava. The post had already denied the youngster, but just 11 minutes into the game, Aaron pulled the defence aside before burying the ball past the visiting keeper.

The home stroll became a balancing act after 23 minutes when a straight red was brandished at Sergio Gonzalez after he rose to meet a high ball in competition with a Zaragoza player. Both players were going for the deflected ball, but the yellow shirted visitor made a meal of it as he crashed to the ground, and the refs snap decision offered hope to Zaragoza. Five minutes into the second half, David Rodriguez exploited a gap at the post as the goalie dived, a two goal lead should have been untouchable but Zaragoza kept pressing and Bazdar exploited a soft part clearance from Salvi had pulled a goal back early in the half, they tapped into their experience and depth.

Tenerife were caught in two minds as to defend or push forward to kill the revival. Mental toughness and self belief can make a big difference, qualities that home coach Pepe Mel will be trying to instill in his young squad. Zaragoza pulled level on 78 minutes from a spill from Salvi. With just a couple of minutes remaining, Zaragoza pressed again and grabbed all three points. It leaves Tenerife at the bottom of the Segunda table with the danger of a gap opening above them. It´s gonna be another gruelling week on the training ground but youth is still the big hope, and Pepe Mel will fire his troops up for Granada away in a weeks time.

 

From Master To Pupil To Victory For CD Tenerife

Now 61 years of age, CD Tenerife coach Pepe Mel was honing his coaching skills long before 16 year old Dani Fernandez was dreaming of becoming the youngest ever goal scorer for his local team. The exciting youth player coolly headed a Luismi Cruz cross past two visiting defenders after 36 minutes. It wasn´t just the inclusion of the rising star in the starting line up that signalled a bold approach by the coach. Marlos Moreno, a free agent signing, started the match, and although his lack of regular action showed at times, he put the ball in the Cartegena net before Fernandez, only to see it ruled out for an earlier hand ball. The 28 year old Columbian could prove to be a useful pick up, once Pepe has given him a shine.

Injuries are already adding to the uphill task that CD Tenerife have, Teto became the latest casualty in the week but another summer arrival, Josep Gaya, got a chance in the centre of defence as the boss shuffled the pack. There was a new intensity and belief on show, and the players are clearly responding to the wisdom and experience of the coach. Salvi has seized the goalies shirt, albeit with a few scares when under pressure, A quick recovery save from a shot by former Tenerife young gun Jairo, and a low post smother in the second half did their part in protecting the lead.

The 13,664 crowd were in good voice as the game moved into injury time and lapped up the second goal. Diarra flashed his skills again to take the ball to the byline before a neat lay off for Gallego tap the ball over the goal line for a 2-0 finish. The first win of the season was richly deserved but these are not times for relaxing, Pepe will remind the players, and the fans will keep the pressure on the majority share holder Garrido, the black cloud that still hangs over the blue revival.

 

Pepe And The CD Tenerife Fans Make Their Voices Heard

Thousands of fans baying for the buy out of main share holder Garrido o-1 pre game, and a goal down to Sporting after 38 minutes. That was the backdrop to the return of coach Pepe Mel, 20 years on from his first spell in charge of the Santa Cruz side. No one said it was going to be easy but less than a week reinstalled and the boss had been laying the ground work for recovery.

Second half subs earned the draw when the speedy Cantero floated the ball into the danger area after 84 minutes for Diarra to rise and head it past the visiting goalie. It was the second well timed finish for the 26 year old Mali born live wire, doubling his and his teams scoring tally so far. It was the most dramatic of impacts but there were more visions of the new coaching plans. David Rodriguez was brought on for the second half, allowing Mellot to swap back to his left back roll.

Perhaps the biggest statement of intent from Pepe Mel was to name 16 year old Dani Fernandez in the starting line up. The Spain under 17 player is one of several young players pressing for a regular senior slot. The 15,531 crowd were encouraged by the spirited home performance, but the experienced Pepe Mel  knows he has a lot of work to do to push Tenerife up the table, especially with the power struggle still unresolved in the boardroom.

 

 

 

Swapping Views In Granadilla

In a zone where barrancos /ravines) slice deeply and rise majestically, there´s a little treat nestled in the shadows of Charco del Pino. A small reservoir of lime green was just part of the reward on a neat, modern, stone stairway down to a couple of front row benches in the folds of Granadilla. Barranco Chinama is not the biggest or most well known of the craggy trails, but its understated approach threading around a cluster of modern homes make it well worth a detour.

I had admired the walkway before from the higher vantage point of the small church of San Luis Obispo, the name being influenced by the King of France who ordered the seizing of Christs crown of thorns from the Holy Land to Paris during the crusades.

The meandering Chinama path stands out from the circular high point behind the church, but gives just a hint of the soothing prescence of the across the way. Passing through an initial cluster of modern houses, the path twists and turns via a rest stop half way down with another wooden bench and a well maintained waste bin. However it is the bigger picture of  resting at the end of the trail as nature paints its picture in the direction of the coast of El Medano. Beware that there is no natural route onward and further down from this small wonder, but it is well worth taking the short detour down and back up to get a feel for the history and culture of the area.

The pool (charco) is barely a puddle in hotter times but the ravine floor retains moisture below a sandy bed, part of the rason for the vibrant pool colour. This access to water has always been a magnet to farmers and traders as they took their home produce to coastal markets, and played its part in the growth of Granadilla. As sports cyclists whizz by, and walkers survey the rolling hills inland, the charco is in no hurry and provides another dimension to the popular main routes.

 

 

 

 

Every Shade Of Green On Erjos Walk

Picking a path between the high alert summer warnings, and the slow aproach of autumn, I was blessed with a multiple shades of green, and even leaves with a distinct salmon tinge. Erjos on the north west of Tenerife offeres two 11 km strolls. on my latest visit I plumped for the upward path, easy to pick up now as two large new aerials stand out on the high ridge. Starting down at the small plaza, the Tourist Information hut by the old threshing machine was closed up but was adorned with plenty of multi language background information on the wider area. After avoiding the scorching heat of high summer, it was great to back to treading familiar paths on the Monte del Aqua trail.

The almost tunnel vision of the walk opens up at various points to show the green valley below, diversity makes this such a popular route but on this visit there were only a few other walkers around. That doesn´t mean that nothing changes, the seasons adds little tweaks to the landscape, and nature often beckons for a second look at the patterns of the ferns and bushes. The first section of the stroll is fairly even and shaded, but stout shoes will get their chance to prove their worth later.

Some of the buds, berries, and seeds were starting to make me peckish – but that´s a temptation that should be avoided, bring your own nibbles, and take away any wrapping. There´s plenty of resting spots, and the route signs are well maintained. The main trunk of the journey is fairly flat, but with a mountain and ravine involved, you know there will be more testing times at some point. After curling gently, there´s a tight, narrow drop at a main junction, don´t doubt the downward arrow.

The alternative route towards the Los Silos coast delves deep and narrow from Erjos before rising near the final stages, and that side of the ravine contains ancient caves that people used to dwell in. From my steeper begining, I now began to follow more exposed tracks with fine views across to the cave entrances. Los Silos was visible in the sunny distance, ut both routes squeeze the walker into a quicker pace over big angular rocks – probably the most testing part of the Erjos expanse.

Rewarding? You bet it is, and informative as the remains of two ancient barns underline the importance of farming in the history of this land. The run off concrete finish to reach the main road is yet another variation and tests the legs once more. The TITSA bus service has a stop at the entrance/exit of the walk for a 20 minute run up into Icod de Los Vinos, where a good selection of routes await.

 

Setting Out The Stall For A New CD Tenerife Season

Assess established players, add new signings to the mix, and try to impose your own style and game plans. New coach Oscar Cano´s in tray is brimming over and was not helped by two first half injury departures at home to UD Almeria. There were flickers of hope in the 0-1 home defeat, but coming on the tail of a league opening 2-1 reverse at CD Eldense, it cranked up the anxiety levels for the new boss, whose experience comes from managing in the lower leagues.

Old reliables, Mellot with surging runs from right back, and a typically alert and creative input from Luismi from the other flank, helped to stoke expectations. Only an acrobatic tip over from the visiting kjeeper ensured a blank first half. Almeria are a well backed, free spending club, and expected to be shining at the sharp end of the Segunda by the end of season. The task became a little bit harder with a sending off for Jose Leon after 53 minutes for a last gasp tackle on the last man defender. That pumped up the visitors, and on 64 minutes,  Melamed slotted in the wining goal.

After all conquering sesons from the Tenerife B team,  and the youth squad, many hopes have been expresed for the emergence of home developed talent. David Rodriguez is a prime example, a 24 year old full back, he was on the fringe of the senior squad a couple of years ago, before being loaned out, but he got some valuable time in the second half and impressed. The crowd of 14,383 was a good starting point for the campaign, and even the black clouds sweeping in over the stadium had the decency not to hold their cargo.

With just a few days left of the transfer window, there may be some fine tuning, inevitably its the eye catching players like Mellot and Alexandre whose signatures are most prized. Hopefully new heroes will emerge, Alejandro Cantero got some valuable time in the late stages of the game and the 24 year old former Madrid youth prospect and Levente player showed some promising moves.

 

 

High Praise For Icod El Alto

As land marks go, a full size figure of a Guanche warrior makes a striking bus stop. The 1996 sculpture by Carmen Luis Leon harked back to a turbulent past when leaping to certain death was preferred to subserviance to the invading Spanish conquistadores. A brighter and more modern look greeted me on the fringes of Icod de Alto, where seven distinct areas of cultivation and farming were marked by tall masts close to the church.

On a baking hot day, the cool, shade and breezes of north Tenerife were the ideal way to sample a more sedate past and a pride in nature. Bridging the busier municipalities of Icod de Los Vinos, and Los Realejos, a good hourly bus service from TITSA enabled me to rise above the frantic pace of life below on the modern motorway. On this visit there were no present day walkers making the epic hike from the coast and upward to the Corona forest, and the defiant statue shared its focal point with a neglected shelter and a memorium to a hunters loyal dog. But history still seemed to bristle in the air and beckoned me on to Icod El Alto.

The main street of Icod El Alto soon revealed more declarations of pride and a strongly forged partnership with nature. A scattering of bars and cafes mingled in with more well crafted focal points of celebration. Local poet, Antonio Reyes surveyed the scene from his mounted steed, and seemed to show mutual admiration for the more recent graffiti art contribution of Sabotaje El Montaje, a well respected Tenerife filler of large solid canvases.

Neat, compact, and with plenty of community pride, Icod El Alto had surprises at every turn. A multi focus tribute to the well tended plants rode the brow of a hill, and a decorated bus stop for the hourly green public buses, all added to the pleasant distractions.

The dominant figures from all angles were still the masts, but I got the feeling there would be plenty more new touches across future seasons.

 

 

Boats, Beaches, And A Beating Heart In Radazul

From the top of the TF1 motorway to the depths of the sea, Radazul nestled in a blanket of wispy clouds that framed the diverse lower neighbour of the Tenerife capital, Santa Cruz. After years of whizzing by as the TITSA bus eats up the last 15 minutes of the hours travel from north to south, it was time to see what the often overlooked area had to offer. Off the 111 bus from Los Cristianos, I eased down the deep sloping road and was struck by the modern circular design of the OAP centre (people of the third age is a much better locally used title) and came face to face with some colourful murals with youthful themes. As the road gave way to the first view point, I was rewarded with the sight of a patchwork of beaches sharing the coast with marinas. A thin ribbon of cloud showed no urgency to upset the balance and tranquility.

The main paved paths down from the start did hint at a testing walk back up later but the wo storey CC Radazul shopping centre gave me a good excuse to check out views from inside. I was an easy and willing target for the Arte Sano cafe with its home made cakes to acompany my coffee. The adjoing arts and crafts shop was the paying point for my refreshment. They scored another direct hit as I spotted two books about the history of CD Tenerife team – my usual reason for heading up the motorway. Pressing on with my downward walk to beach level, the unusual designs for the apartment blocks showed that a lot of thought had gone into building the urban heart.

A choice had to be taken at sea level, the small Playa La Nea beach headed up towards Santa Cruz with a 2010 Fernando Mena sculpture El Ojo del Calamar holding my attention before turning  south along the coast past the dog park and on to the begining of the marinas. Looking up, motorway level looked a steep climb away but the beach walkway had plenty more to offer. I had a faint memory of reading some years ago that Radazul was proud to add a Pisces 6 deep diving vessel, the yellow bubble looked to be still getting plenty of dives for scientific research, dive tourism, and film and production work. The sun and fresh air was working it´s own charms a little further along at an informal, cafe near the shingle beach.

I always like to see signs of community involvement on my days out, Radazul had many from another dive school backing coastal clean ups, to a book swap point just a salty breeze away from the sea. Radazul, part of the El Rosario municipality, is well worth diving into.

 

 

 

 

 

Salt And Seasonal Relish For Corpus Christi

Concrete canvases have been converted into spectacular flower carpets all over Tenerife for the Corpus Christi celebrations. The daddy of them all is in La Orotava in the north of the island, where it all started in 1647. The vast courtyard outside the Ayuntamiento building (town hall) is buzzing each year as sand, salt, and volcanic soil are added to the mix, which spreads out into the tight old streets. The big procession is on 6th June this year and must be almost heart breaking as a swarm of devotees walk the route around town as the patterns are slowly eroded.

 

Similar art outbreaks showed the their own pride and dedication. Santa Cruz left shoppers spellbound as school children and scouts laboured over their own versions spreading out from the Iglesia (church) de la Concepcion and across the main shopping street of Calle Castillo. Passing on the skills is very important to keep history alive, the young workers were surrounded by endless supplies of materials, including enough salt to flavour a banquet.

Back in the south, a lone carpet greeted Sunday morning church goers in Los Cristianos, but many smaller outposts around the island had produced their own versions large and small.