The half full reservoir just above Arona hinted at the need for rain to avoid a summer drought in Tenerife. Later perched on the lip of Barranco del Rey, the centuries of lava and water erosion that had formed this deep chasm put it into some historical context. Tenerife has thrived on nature’s whims and in my ten years on the rock there has always been plenty of water to hose down the streets early morning and keep flower beds fed.
The day was certainly a hot one, even in the Plaza del Cristo de la Salud, Arona for the 9am start to the latest free guided Arona Ayuntamiento (council) walk. Sadly there were only seven walkers and our guide Virginia but we set off keenly, taking the path marked Camino del Toro 2.4 kms, the return down Camino del Suarez would be a tougher 3.9 kms, a pleasure to look forward to.
Bird song filled the air as we passed the reservoir and walked upwards parallel to the main Vilaflor road. Stone water channels were a constant companion on our route but their bubbling cargo was now encased in thick rubber pipes guided by their stone holders. As we veered away from the road and upward the path became steeper and rougher but the surroundings were soothing with plenty of plant life and distractions like an old abandoned house that we had a good nose inside.
Our slight detour to peer into the barranco that separates Arona from Adeje was soon followed by a stretch of better track that passed a small farm with some loud extrovert chickens and the El Refugio restaurant. Their sign promised rabbit and goat, maybe those chickens should cluck a little quieter if they know what’s good for them. Behind the restaurant was an old lavendaria, a basic clothes washing area, the water channels were once widely used for cleaning purposes.
Over the brow of the hill into Ifonche and we were greeted with a clear view up to the pine forests of Vilaflor, and what a glorious green vista it was. A quick dip in and out of the shallow end of the barranco and we found another old deserted house, this time with its own wine making room with a pressing area for the grapes alas it was dry. Turning a corner we were in a large threshing circle, moving to the front we could see why it was now a popular take off spot for paragliders. The land fell away below to reveal stunning views of Las Americas, Fanabe, and La Caleta with a cloud topped La Gomera rising up beyond.
To the right the peak of Montaña Los Brezos tapered to a point and on our other side Roque Imoque (below) rose like a twin guardian. What a perfect place for a food and water stop, several other walkers passed by in both directions at this point as we fed the lizards with scraps. Moving onto our downward spiral I was glad to see a sturdy wooden rail had been added to the first tight corner since my last visit several years ago. On the way down we saw some fine examples of Tabaiba Roja, normally found in the Teno area but thriving here. Sipping coffee in Los Cristianos I usually admire the front face of Roque del Conde but now I could appreciate the rear view and the cleverly crafted gravity defying terracing on the steep side.
The Camino del Suarez was a much harder corkscrew path but has a welcome break for some more old houses and some caves hewn into the sandstone like rock. There was even an entrance to a deep water gallery, nature has hidden some reserves for a not so rainy day. Just before reaching Arona there was the small matter of another steep sided barranco to clamber down and up, on past walks this always had a trickle of water running through it but this time it was parched.
With perfect timing we were back in Arona after a five hour muscle stretching workout, just enough time for me to sink a cold drink at the bus stop bar before my Los Cristianos bus gave me a restful ride home.