If I had been a bee, I would have been in a buzzing frenzy. Even so the fragrant flowers that made the mighty crosses in La Rambla gave my senses a real treat on May 3rd, the Day of the Cross, the celebration of the founding of Tenerife capital Santa Cruz in 1494. There was plenty to see as I hopped off the tram at La Paz, the first part of the wide central pedestrian walkway featured 18 crosses made from recycled materials by local schools and colleges.

It was a great way to teach a history lesson to the younger generation, many of the works were influenced by very modern characters from cartoons and computer games but the hard work put into the colourful creations was reflected in parental pride as they were snapped in front of their art. I’m sure Sir Henry Moore of Manchester would have approved of the joyful character just in front of his reclining sculpture, Warrior of Goslar. La Rambla is full of history, from the street art exhibition of 1974 to the paint peeling bull ring that has been abandoned for decades.

Onto the main event as the sun burst through on the stretch just in front of Parque Garcia Sanabria. The orange and green cross with its suspended orchids in glass baubles set the standard high and the quality was continued through all 16 offerings. Some residents in the flats at the side of the road had planted there own smaller works on their balconies, and the violet blooms from the avenue and parks trees complimented the show nicely. It all reached a crescendo with the biggest piece, boasting apples and blooms.

I took the chance to catch up with a few favourite places around the capital, and spotted a poster for another celebration. Almáciga on the north east corner of Tenerife had its own history to mark. The Virgen of Begoña refers to an event 70 years ago when a group of pilgrims travelling from Bilbao to Santiago del Compostella dropped a bottle in the ocean containing five small portraits of the Virgen of Begoña. It washed up in Almáciga and a shrine was set up to mark the event.

I was looking for omens of a more personal celebration as it was the day before the Canarian football derby between CD Tenerife and UD Las Palmas. The Chicharro statue in the heart of the shopping district looked confident and it seemed appropriate that it was surrounded by more vibrant flowers. It turned out to be a good pointer for a victory.

It´s not a sin to smile, and it can be quite infectious. So give a cheer for the Urban Art project from Arona Ayuntamiento (council) that has sponsored 59 reasons to be cheerful in Los Cristianos. You may have spotted the team of artists busy colouring up the benches on the old beach promenade and in Avenida de Suecia at the upper level of the old town. Now the works are complete, and completely lovely.

Artists from across the south have turned their ideas into mutli coloured murals depicting aspects of Canarian life, environmental pride, and downright cute illustrations to put a spring in your daily step. One of the biggest contributors is the Pintores del Llano based in San Miguel, but the works have attracted artists of many ages and several nationalities.

As someone who nearly reduced his school art teacher to a quivering wreck, and would still struggle to draw a conclusion, I have great admiration for those who are talented with the pencil and the brush. Watching the works evolve over the last few weeks has been fascinating and they have attracted a lot of admiring glances from passers by.

Los Cristianos is something of a trail blazing canvas for street art. The harbour wall, the tunnel archway between the two beaches, and the steps behind the church, have all benefited from artistic intervention to turn the daily drab into a brush with brilliance. Of course they are still popular places to sit and watch the world go by, and what wonderfully romantic reference points for a blind date.

From despair comes hope, and from death comes life. Easter is the time to celebrate these momentous swings, and what better way than through a combination of nature and art. Guia de Isora, above the west coast of Tenerife has established a four day exhibition of floral sculptures that wind around the narrow streets of this quiet Tenerife town. Pascua Florida attracted 21 designs for the 2019 edition and although the sun was shy, the quality of expression and design was bold and emotionally stunning.

One of the first exhibits to strike me was Transformation, designed by Carmen Barreña Moreno from the Spanish Association of Florists. Ropes, nails and thorns combined to show the transformation of the body to the spirit of Christ. Temptations Between Good And Evil from local artist Carlos Curbelo displayed the serpent from the Garden Of Eden on a bed of apples. Christ The Redeemer held a central position in the church square, invited artist Fernando Mena kept a classically simple image and its closeness to the church building added to the impact.

Breaking The Bread holds a special place in bible teachings and Carlos Curbelo revisited a previous theme to show the stark white ingredients in their basic form. This was in one of the back streets, La Vera, which featured some extra designs outside of the exhibition. The local council added their own inventive use of water piping coiled around flowers that are sustained by the water. In the background some classical choral music added to the affect. For a big splash of colour to underline the theme, Patricia Leon made Flowers Are Colours, providing a link to the Tenerife tradition of flower carpets.

The good people of Guia de Isora embrace the annual display, just as well as it makes use of many small spaces such as alleys and doorways. This was the case with Tears Of Christ, cascading around the entrance to a house. Juan Chamorro from Oviedo made the journey from the mainland to submit his design. Dismember, with its vibrant reds touched on sadness and violence, another fine work by Carlos Curbelo. The weekend had seen several re-enactments of The Passion around Tenerife, most notably the huge Adeje street theatre, True Image by Carlos Curbelo referred to a lady who wiped the blood from Christs face as he carried the cross, the image was preserved on her cloth.

Expiration captured the moment of crucifixion with hands outstretched to the heavens. This was also at a point near to the church plaza, and also came from Carlos Curbelo. The route around the town snaked through tight streets and walkways with many of the works only becoming visible at the last minute. 30 Coins was one piece that caught me off guard as I turned a corner. Montse Dominguez showed some of the 30 pieces of silver that Judas received for his betrayal.

Ascension was one of the bigger works near the far end of the route. It marked the rise to heaven of Christ, and was designed by Cristina de Leon Sabina, a florist from Alde. All points led back to the church plaza, where music and dance performances added to the four day event. This is just a selection of the full 21 piece line up, there was even an entry from a Hong Kong School of Floral Art designer this year. Each year Pascua Florida adds to its reputation and encourages more artistic contributors to get involved. A big thanks to all who worked so hard on this years crop.

Who doesn’t like a dip in the sea, it’s refreshing, cleansing, and invigorating. Initially wary, the horses, ponies, and even the odd camel, were soon lapping up the waves at Playa de La Enramada beach in La Caleta, Tenerife. The San Sebastian fiesta is a highlight of the Adeje calendar and around 10,000 people swarmed to the church plaza and then the beach to enjoy the special day.

I arrived as the peel of the church bells floated through the clear blue sky,soon to be followed by the noon mass. Outside the church terrace was packed with tables full of guitar and timple players, and giant paellas washed down with beer and wine. Sheep and goats roamed in their pens, and horses were groomed and decorated in the paddock area. There were some magnificent looking steeds trotting through their paces on the road, there was an air of pride to them, they knew this was their big day.

The crowds drifted down to the beach as the mass reached its conclusion, good vantage points were soon snapped up, hotel balconies brimmed with people, and para gliders swooped down from the sky. Preparations were being fine tuned, life guards and safety boats kept watch over the beach as barriers held the eager crowds back. The first of the horses cantered onto the beach, a little unsure of the shifting shingle but the sea air and knowledgeable riders encouraged and coaxed them towards the shore. Once over their early reluctance the horses revelled in the water giving themselves and riders a good cool down. Several children either rode with adults on horses or dipped into the shallows with ponies. It was a beautiful sight, and an important cultural landmark that is lovingly preserved each year.

La Caleta has come a long way from being a small fishing village, the shore side restaurants are still a magnet for those wanting to taste the local catch but the newer five star hotels loom large on the landscape. There was plenty more celebrating to be done as riders steered their horses back to steadier ground and dismounted for some well deserved food and drink. Viva San Sebastian!

Lifted aloft and carried around the heart of Arona town, San Antonio Abad had pride of place at the first Tenerife Romeria of 2019. It was a busy day with so many animals to bless, processions to watch, and music and dancing to behold.

There were plenty of takers for the free coaches organised by Arona council from Playa de Las Americas, and Los Cristianos, and the public bus service Titsa added extra buses to their route as well. The Plaza Cristo de la Salud was the focal point, I arrived as the tiny church was bursting at the seams with worshippers who were joined by musicians and dancers. The mayor, Jose Julian Mena was decked out in traditional Canarian dress and leant a shoulder to help carry the statue of the saint out of the church and into the bright sunlit plaza. Drummers, pipers, and dancers provided a joyous welcome to boost the happy mood.

To the side of the church stalls sold Canarian food and crafts while outlets in the plaza sold food and drink. Those taking part in the celebrations had plenty of small wine glasses strung around their costumes to toast the special day. Six carts stood tall on their giant wooden wheels with cattle ready to pull them along. Music was breaking out all the way up the road as finishing touches were put to clothes and overhead balconies. Slowly the procession fell into line and started its slow journey around the edges of the plaza before dipping down to the centre of town and returning up a side road. While this was going on, San Antonio was delivered to his stage ready to look over the blessing of the working animals and the many domestic pets brought along.

The animals were anointed with a sprinkling of holy water as singers sang the praises of the favoured saint. Some fancy footwork was called for as some creatures had left little presents behind. It wasn’t just live animals enjoying the day, there were several home made friends including a goat and a pig. The many children in the crowd were loving their taste of tradition, all ages are encouraged to join in the fun. After the blessings, San Antonio was carried back into the church, again accompanied by musicians and dancers. As the animals returned to their fields and pastures, the council workers were already power washing and cleaning the streets on the procession route.

The main stage came to life then with the first of several large groups which soon had people up and dancing. It was destined to be a late night for the hard core revellers, and who could deny them after all the hard work and dedication that goes into the Romeria.

Michael Bentine´s Potty Time sprung to mind as I towered over a Roman soldier keeping a watchful eye on a fish stall, and sheep crossing a bridge from a market. The delicate christmas music tinkling in the background was the clue that I was visiting the first of the belenes (nativity layouts) on my pre festive tour of Tenerife. This first port of call was the Casa de Los Capitanes just a short stroll from the tram terminus in La Laguna. This one is open Monday to Friday 10 to 2pm, and 4 to 8pm, only the morning hours on a Saturday.

Traditions are nice, and although I´m lacking in religious fervour, I enjoy checking out the good, the bad, and the tacky. Understated is often better, a waxy silver sprayed tree in the main shopping street caught my eye, but a giant blue and red present box left me underwhelmed. There was also a mixed response to the christmas market outside the glorious cathedral building. The food looked yummy but the garish coloured plastic tree seemed a bit out of place, and I couldn´t work out why they had sewing machines away in a manger. For a nice overview of the city, I paid a measley two euros to climb the five floors of the tower of Our Lady of the Concepcion. I could see as far as the north airport and also down the shopping streets, Gran Canaria (heaven forbid) lurked in the distance. I was a bit upset by the noticeable rise in graffiti in the main shopping streets, Santa Cruz issued 200 fines this year against roque scrawlers, maybe La Laguna should follow their lead.

The tram ride back down to Santa Cruz was smooth as always. A walk around the port added two new visiting ships to my collection, the slightly rusty Avontuur, a 1920 built cargo ship from Holland , and training ship, Alexander Von Humbolt 2 training ship also from Holland. The massive staging was also going up ready for The Jacksons upcoming concert, and the traditional Christmas Night free concert featuring the Tenerife Symphony Orchestra. By then it was time to say hello to a few more belenes, starting with the Cabildo (Tenerife government) building by the Plaza de España. This was very nice with lots of small scenes of everyday rural life packed in. Times are 9am to 9.30pm with an hour closed from 3 to 4pm. Only the first belen in La Laguna has a donation box, a shame as most people would gladly pop some loose change in a charity box.

Last of the Santa Cruz haul was the Fundacion Caja Canarias bank display in their big HQ building in Plaza de Patriotismo. This is always a favourite of mine as the light ebbs and flows to make the tall landscape pass from day to night in quick rotation. The little ponds have live fish in them, and the figures of workmen move and perform manual tasks. Aim for 10 to 1.30pm, and 5.30 to 8pm weekdays and Saturdays, with 10 to 1.30pm on Sundays.

That left me time for a wander around the shopping heart of the capital city. The festive lights burst into life prompt at 6pm and are a bit different this year, with giant baubles, and angels floating among the tree tops. How splendid and magical it all looked, unfortunately the magic was a little missing when I moved on to my main event, CD Tenerife v Extremadura, a painful 0-0 draw. Hopefully Santa will bring some new players for January and sprinkle some stardust on our season.

Senses were on high alert as the free Arona council bus dropped us in Valle San Lorenzo, just 20 minutes drive from Playa de Las Americas, and Los Cristianos. Tenerife loves to celebrate the traditions of Saint Andrew (San Andres) every 30th November, and the smokey smells combined with music, and the taste of chestnuts (castañas) drew thousands of revellers to the main street and Arona Farmers Market (Mercado del Agrucultor) of this popular town.

San Andres is the patron saint of wine and this is the time of year when the magic liquid reaches its peak in the barrels that are cracked open and bottles filled. At key points around Tenerife, such as Icod de Los Vinos, the wooden barrels are traditionally broken into makeshift karts to clatter down the steep streets during the celebrations. It was a bit more sedate in Valle San Lorenzo with wine served at the outdoor braziers where the chestnuts were cooked in cauldrons and pans. Wine and chestnuts were being snapped up in small one euro, or larger two euro plastic glasses, and paper bags, also with those same price and size choices. The queues stretched up the main street under the newly christened christmas lights threaded through the branches of the trees.

Just over a year ago, the Farmers Market was launched, the indoor hall provided a great central point to sample and buy local produce like vegetables, cheeses, bread, flowers and much more from 60 stalls. The Canarian folk group from Chasna provided a musical treat with traditional costumes and dancing, and children were distracted with art projects and even marzipan and chestnut modelling of animal figures. Every Saturday and Sunday the market is open to the public from 8 am to 2 pm with free parking next door and a free bus service from Playa de Las Americas through Los Cristianos and Chayofa from 10 am until the return run from 1 pm in Valle San Lorenzo.

A guide leaflet for the chestnut night listed six local bars and cafes offering a selection of chestnut influenced tapas snacks. I needed no encouragement to dip into such delights as chestnut mousse, croquettes, and chestnut ice cream. All that creative effort was much appreciated but my warmest glow came from the anticipation of queueing for a bag of chestnuts as the red hot favourites were scooped into an open paper bag to cup in my hands before picking the shells off and tasting the glorious flavour inside.

Elsewhere there was a large childrens play area where the youngsters were being shown how to make a snake of old cans to drag down the path. The clanking noise is another traditional way of celebrating the arrival of the years new batch of wine. One day may be the focus of the celebrations but outdoor chestnut stands sprout up for a few weeks from November and there are always great wines of many a vintage to enjoy in Tenerife. Long live tradition, I’ll drink to that…and eat to it!

After three weeks of Virgen del Encarnacion celebrations, Adeje had one last flourish on the final Sunday as the romeria slowly edged its way up the Calle Grande. Tenerife has no shortage of fiestas but each regional variation is bursting with pride at their own particular slice of history and culture. Large carts trundled up the main avenue decked out with flowers, baskets and home produce, and pulled by powerful and majestic bullocks.

Arriving a little late due to football, I could have been forgiven for thinking I had missed the show. Council cleaners were already brushing the lower street and cleaning away all the debris but it was just an example of the efficient organisation, and they would not catch up to the moving tail of the procession until much later. Bars and restaurants in the street were spilling out onto pavement tables and chairs, and had been busy since mid morning. Local produce was getting plenty of attention today, wines, cheeses, breads, and meats cooked on small barbecues along the route.

It´s very much a family affair, children are encouraged to take an interest and to learn the traditional ways, they will be running future fiestas. Music and dancing were in full flow between the carts, and a huge stage awaited on the Plaza de España at the top of the street. Miss Sur had been duly elected the previous night and a succession of concerts had ensured late nights and tired feet. Calle Grande is a fine backdrop for the events of Adeje, the tight, steep street encourages mingling and friendship, the town hall is proud and imposing, and the church is rich with history. Adeje´s school of folklore ensures that there is a next generation of knowledgeable revellers, and they have all the moves.

The large statue of the Virgen held court in the doorway of the Iglesia de Santa Ursula church, and a smaller version stood just outside. Both were gathering points for family groups to pose after offering their homage. The main stage just below the church gets bigger every year and with the Barranco del Infierno gauging a deep path through the mountains behind it, the setting always inspires. Adeje is no museum piece, it has changed with the times and continues to do so. On my way down the hill on the more modern side of town, I could see the two new large underground parking areas taking shape, thousands of people flock to Adeje to bask in its charms, and the administrative hub of the municipality is there too.

The future was on the back burner for the revellers at the romeria, there was plenty to celebrate and the afternoon was a glorious, sunny one. Ancient and modern were destined to rub shoulders long into the night. If you want to take a peep at what goes on and what to explore in Adeje, keep an eye on their official website.

Every street and plaza is a stage in Santa Cruz. The Tenerife capital needs little excuse to party, well it´s all good training for the annual Canaval, and it´s always nice to give the traders of the city a boost. With 100 acts spread over 20 points, my Ten Mas bus ticket and the 110 Titsa bus whizzed me from Los Cristianos to Santa Cruz for an early Saturday morning start.

First stop was the Castillo San Juan on the sea front, near the spot where Nelson lost his arm when trying to lead a British invasion in 1797. History was very much on the menu for a series of theatrical story telling sessions in the castle courtyard as a narrator weaved tales of nautical action in days past. The hook nose of the modern Auditorio peaked in over the walls and the soaring solo singing of one of the players fitted in well with the opera season taking place inside the iconic modern hall.

Moving along the port road and into the heart of the city, it was clear that many people had poured into Santa Cruz for the day, I didn´t see the Star Wars storm troopers marching through the streets but did bump into Princess Leia and friends. Parque Garcia Sanabria is always a favourite call for me at any time but it was bustling with food trucks filling one avenue, and a couple of stages for a range of musical styles. An old fashioned photographer, Michi Rodriguez, using the traditional plates and cloak method was producing some splendid black and white images. The snappers whiskers and bow tie added to the time warp feel, and there was even a birdie to watch, dangling from the lens.

Plaza del Principe was gearing up for a night of DJs on the main stage, but down at street level the excellent Bloko drum band were pounding out an infectious musical blast. I had previously seen the mix of drummers from the Canaries, Cape Verde, and Kenya, at the annual youth football tournament in Playa de Las Americas, it was great to hear them again. Plaza Candelaria had a corridor of pink marquees packed with craft products, and the stage was being entertained by some bizarre puppet creatures. A little further round by the lake, a magician had the children spellbound with some classic tricks, yes they even made a rabbit appear from a hat.

There was only one way to round off such a pleasant day, the evening kick off between CD Tenerife and Cadiz, it was almost as if I had planned it! The magician must have spread his magic dust towards the Heliodoro Stadium, Tenerife got their first win of the season. Sport wasn´t left out at the Plenilunio, a series of small basketball courts on the port approach encouraged young fans to test their skills. A childrens run was taking place, with an adults version to follow later, and the stages would be featuring pop and rock bands.

Iron swords so heavy you needed two hands to wield them, boats so sleek and long they looked like serpents with sails billowing in the wind. Come on, who doesn’t like the Vikings, even before Hollywood brought Thor to the big screen, they had to be one of the most appealing conquerers from history.

Arriving at the Caja Canarias banks HQ in Plaza del Patriotismo, Santa Cruz, I was just in time for the 5.30 pm start to the Friday evening opening in the Fundacion’s cultural hall, and joined a dozen other people in a guided tour. The large ground level entrance was dominated by a model of a Viking long boat, I was soon to learn how the narrow war ships varied from the more sturdy trading vessels they used. All the exhibits were backed by video screens and static displays in Spanish and English, although the compulsory tour guide gave this journey just in Spanish.

It seems the Vikings were about much more than just pillaging and plundering, their artistic designs and crafts as well as their religious and social structures unfolded as we progressed upstairs into a winding gallery. Of course the chain mail, hefty swords and axes evoked memories of the warrior tradition, but a copy of the decorated Jelling Stone paid homage to the meanest of them all King Harald Bluetooth who united Denmark and Norway, and made the new nation christian.

The exhibition has come to Santa Cruz from Denmark’s national museum and includes original artefacts, and well crafted replicas, but the fearsome Viking reputation is genuine. The host building had been converted from its normal open, two floor, stroll around design to a tighter cavern like look, complete with boat design layouts marked on the blue carpet to show the tight confines of the war ships. The subdued lighting added to the atmospheric feel and it was a good insight into a race that has not always been best served by legend status.

On the down side, I thought the tour was a little rushed, another tour party was snapping at our heels, especially on the upper level where we were the circular route funelled us back down to the exit. Prices are not advertised on the posters or in many listings, but the basic cost with the compulsory guide is five euros, with no reduction for residents. It is free though for those under 26 or over 65, it was good to see decent numbers on both opening tours on this Friday evening. The exhibition is on to 11^th August 2018, Monday to Friday 10 am to 1.30 pm and 5.30 pm to 8 pm, plus Saturdays from 10 am to 1.30 pm, closed Sundays.