The good people of Tenerife had a whip round and sent me back to England for a 10 day break to give them some respite, so here I am in Bolton with the lovely Pam, for a whirlwind tour of England.

Where to start, well Chester sounded as good as anywhere, and just an hours drive away. My knowledge only runs to vague ideas about a racecourse and Chester City, recently relegated back to the Conference, and managed by Mark Wright, former Liverpool and England defender and ex Oxford United manager.The boy from Berinsfield, just outside Oxford, also scored the winning goal at the England v Egypt World Cup finals game I attended in Sardinia in 1990.

First impresion weaving through the tight cobbled streets, was the staggering amount of pubs, I notice the important things, The remains of the city walls from the Romans visit 2,000 year ago led past the cathedral (see pic below) and surrounding gardens where people were sprawled out on the lawns in the sunshine, personally I felt the keen wind chilling me and was glad of my jumper and coat. In the centre of town, the Eastgate clock, built 1897, Â sits atop an arch over the main shopping street, a photo opportunity to good to miss. There was an interesting antigue shop on the arch, among the more traditional paintings of local scenes, there were some with Daleks and Cybermen added in, and there was me thinking that Dr Who was fiction.

If we were going to be tourists, we thought we might as well go the whole way, so we signed upfor a 90 minute walking tour (a fiver each) from the information centre. There were just 5 of us and our guide, Gerry, sounded just like Ken and Kenneth, the gentlemans tailors from The Fast Show. As for the tour, ooh suits us, it took us out to the edge of the city centre, past the oldest racecourse in the UK, the only one where they race anti clockwise. Apparently the footie ground is nearby and the dividing line between England and Wales cuts through it. Down to the River Dee and the area known as The Groves, ducks and herons perched on the weir and pleasure boats mingled with swans as we trudged by. History oozes out of every brick and we visited the old castle and Agricola Tower, before ending at the impressive St Johns Church, built in 689.

One day down, and I didn’t need the thermals, the forecast is not encouraging but bring it on, I feel some more wanderings coming on, hmmm wonder if Pam would fancy a trip to the National Football Museum in Preston?

Ok, I can here you whispering, he’s finally lost it, send for the men with the white coats. Just hold on, I’m actually talking about cutting edge art, I finally got round to seeing the Jed Berk art exhibition at the Circulo de Bellas Artes in Santa Cruz. The Blubber Bots are 22 interactive helium filled balloons fitted with sensors that make them react to light and sound.

 Finding the arts centre is an achievement, it’s half way along Calle Castillo, the main shopping drag, that connects Plaza de España to Plaza Weyler and above a shop. At the top of the stairs I found a black curtain blocking my way and poked it nervously, a young lady appeared and led me through to a small theatre type hall, fairly dark and with white blobs lurking in corners. She explained that they were resting, pulling her mobile out, she hit the music tone and they began to stir moving towards the sound, she then adjusted the lights and they became quite agitated, a few took an interest in me and ganged up. I kept thinking of Rover, the big white ball in The Prisoner, and was waiting to be enveloped and captured. Luckily they were fairly friendly and just bounced near me, moving when I did.

American artist Jed Berk created these Bots after graduating from the Rhode Island school of design, I’m not sure what he had been drinking, but I’d like a pint of it please. Sadly the Bots will bounce off elsewhere after this Saturday, but I will pop back to see what new wonders replace them.

I spent the rest of the day touring Santa Cruz, convinced I could see the Bots following at a discreet distance, peering out from shop doorways. A trip along Las Ramblas seemed a good idea, and isn’t it typical, I soon found a Brit laid out stone cold under a tree. Don’t worry, it was an old friend, the sculpture El Guerrero de Goslar (above) by British artist Henry Moore. It was replaced yesterday on its plinth, where it has resided since the 1973 Art in the Streets exhibition. We all need a holiday, and the famous work has been on display at TEA (Tenerife Esapacio de las Artes) since it opened in November last year, sadly in one day, it had already gained some unwanted graffiti.

Moving on I found an even stranger site (above) hanging from the trees and balancing on some metal stands. Having overcome a strange compulsion to clutch and cough, I looked over the exhibit. It’s been a while since I walked right around Las Ramblas, but I can’t recall seeing these “items” before. The sign on the stand said Xavier Corero 1973, but they look clean and free of bird pooh, so I assume they too have been recently returned to the wild.

Old, crusty and falling apart, the Guanche mummies bore a striking resemblance to how I look after a night on the Dorada. They are undoubtably the stars of the Museo de la Naturaleza Y El Hombre (museum of nature and man) in Santa Cruz.

A 111 Titsa bus had whisked me to the capital from Los Cristianos in an hour with just 4.45 euros damage to my bono ticket. Heading along the front, it’s just a couple of minutes to the  Barranco de Santos, just look for the bridges over the old ravine, and the large imposing museum. Being Sunday, entrance to the museum was FREE, but it’s hardly expensive normally at 3 euros for adults or 1.50 students and children. If you pay with your bono bus ticket, you get a 50% discount as well, a bonus common to all the main museums in the area.

The museum was opened in 2002 and is bright, airy and spacious inside, built around 2 courtyards it covers 3 floors and has a shop and cafeteria. Starting on the ground floor, I learned about the formation and history of the Canary Islands, there were information sheets to pick up, in English, German and Spanish, plus there is a headphone service that gives commentary on all exhibits, again in a choice of languages.

This is a visually pleasing setting, giant video walls, and interactive work stations are to the fore and the displays are well set out. Moving up through the layers of this historical chocolate box, rocks, fossils, plants and animals all added their testimony to the development of the islands.

The Guanches date back to between 100 and 1000 BC, and were the aboriginal founders of life in the Canary Islands. The mummies were discovered mainly in La Orotava, and have their own alcove on the second floor. I found them fascinating but not macabre, but felt a chill of unease at the mummies of young children, their internal organs and even a foetus.Â

Educated and stimulated, I left the museum after 2 leisurely hours, I could easily have lingered longer. Opening times are daily from 9 am to 7 pm but closed on Mondays, roll up and delve into the rich past of the Canary Islands.

It was so nice to see Los Gigantes and Puerto Santiago brimming with tourists, both have been eerily quiet on my previous visits. Semana Santa (Easter week) is not only a big religious time, but also a big family holiday when Spanish flock from the mainland to Tenerife, encouraged lately by cut price hotel deals. On the 473 bus journey from Los Cristianos, I noticed large numbers of camper vans parked up in Playa Paraiso and on Punta Blanca between Alcala and Playa de la Arena. Camping on the beaches is illegal, and although the police have cut it down in recent years, they will never stop it all.

Back in Los Gigantes, the afternoon sun punched its way through the clouds, luring a few more onto the small dark beach and bars and restaurants were doing a steady trade. I poked my nose in at La Laquillo, the large outdoor swimming pool complex, that became a regular haunt of mine during my 4 years living up in Puerto Santiago, and based at The Western Sun newspaper office just behind the church plaza.

With the pocket sized beach easily filled, La Laquillo is a popular alternative at 4.50 euros a day (adult) including a sunbed. They also have a nice restaurant and life guards on duty, so it’s a good choice for families. On the down side, I recall the water always being cold, but that was offset for me by the lovely young Canarian lady with stunning thighs, who usually let me in free to swim my laps.

Leaving “The Village” as Los Gigantes is known (always makes me think of The Prisoner) I decided to forsake cardiac hill, and take the scenic route via Crab Island. This is a lovely settlement that hugs the coast and features the rock pool, a popular venue for late night skinny dipping. The wonderful setting also encourages tourists to sit on the edge and pose for photos, even when the sea is alarmingly rough. It was calm for my visit, but I always think of my first front page story for The Western Sun, when a man was swept out of the pool by a freak wave and with the help of a heroic holiday maker, was lifted out by helicopter.

 Moving on up, I passed quite a line of people coming down from the viewing terrace above the rocks, the outlook was beautiful as always, although the waft of sewage from the nearby pipeline still tweaks the nostrils. Left with just half a hill to climb, I stopped off in Puerto Santiago to re-aquaint myself with one of my favourite bars before taking the main road above the sea. The even smaller Santiago beach had its fair share of visitors, but the sea air spurred me on and down through the tight hairpin corner, so expertly manouvered by coach and bus drivers, to the plaza. Well I couldn’t hop on my bus without having a meal at the excellent Plaza Restaurante. It was nice to see the same friendly staff there (they used to reserve me pole position in front of the TV for CD Tenerife away games) and the old men still engrossed in their endless games of chess. With a belly full of tuna, the hour long bus trip back to the south soon snoozed by.

Walking through a giant human colon, surrounded by statistics of untimely death. No,it’s not the new single from Morrisey, just part of another interesting trip to Santa Cruz, the always surprising capital of Tenerife.

More of those bodily functions later, but top of my agenda today,was the new exhibition of Still Life paintings from the Prado museum in Madrid.  The touring exhibition, El Bodegon Español en El Prado, is at the Espacio Cultural Caja Canarias (upstairs from the large Caja Canarias bank at Plaza de Patriotismo, just up and to the right of Plaza de España) and will stay until 31 May.

The FREE exhibition opens from 11 am to 1 pm and 5 pm to 9 pm Monday to Friday, and 11am to 2 pm and 5 pm to 8 pm on Saturdays. It was my first foray into the display area, bright, modern and spacious, it’s a good setting for the frequent culture shows that they put on. In this case, there are 60 offerings from leading Spanish painters of the 17th to 19th century. The Goya work, above, is Perros En Trailla y Utiles De Caza, from 1775.

Most of the paintings feature animals, and food, and are so rich and evocative of their subjects, thay made me quite hungry. This one above is Dolces y Frutos Secos Sobre Una Mesa, by Tomas Hiepes. In case you are wondering, these are not photos taken by me, the very serious looking security guards looked ready to swat me like an annoying fly when I asked if I could take photos, even without a flash.

Judging by the well thumbed and gratefully signed visitors book that has followed the paintings on their city by city tour, I was not the only one to be impressed by the work on offer. If you want a colourful souvenir, they are selling a 200 page glossy catalogue for 20 euros.

Leaving the building, I was intrigued by a bright orange concertina tube at the entrance to the Plaza de Principe de Asturias park. Silly me, it was a colon of course, the young ladies in attendance thrust some leaflets in my hand and propelled me towards the colon mouth. I soon discovered that it was a graphic way to alert people to the dangers of cancer of the colon. Here’s a couple of shocking facts for you, the Spanish death rate from colon cancer is 6 times that from AIDS and 3 times that from road deaths. Despite being the most common form of cancer, it has a 90 % cure rate if caught early. The display is only there for a few more days, so do yourself a favour and have a quick look at the website for the alliance to prevent colon cancer.

Not a bad old place Santa Cruz, culture and health education, all within one small area of the city. I look forward to more revelations on my next trip.

As the frogs gave way to the cockerels (see previous post) it was time to move on from Vallehermoso and head down the western side of La Gomera for the home leg. Making a decently early start, we began the uphill climb to the edge of the Garajonay National Park. Steep and twisting was just the start, we soon discovered that JCB’s were busy on the top stretches of the TF 711, clearing rock falls and trying to do some widening where possible. Passing was near impossible at these points, so mobile phones and Stop/ Go signs filtered cars through in single file (a traffic jam in La Gomera is 3 cars) as diggers pulled in to the side. This left us on very narrow, debris strewn single mud tracks, seperated from sheer drops of 1,000 metres plus, by makeshift fances of plastic tape lattice work. Forgive me if I haven’t got any nice pics of the sheer drops, but I didn’t fancy clinging on to a tree root by my teeth while peering into the cloudy swirl below. Finally dropping,on the lead into Garajonay, rocks started to rise above us rather than plummet below, a very welcome sight.

Having seen postcards of a huge reservoir, with a public walkway across, we headed for the heart of the National Park and La Laguna Grande. The Laurel forest closed in around the road, with green moss clinging to the branches and dripping moist droplets around us as shafts of sunlight burst in through chinks in the leafy umbrella, adding steam to the mix. Taking a rough track down to La Laguna Grande, we found a large recreation and picnic area with an information office just beyond. A brief walk down one of the marked paths led to a green valley opening up below, but it seemed that the resevoir was a 6 km walk away, and time was against us.

Back to the car and we headed up into the hills again before the eventual drop into Playa de Santiago. The road twisted and turned again as goats stared down at us from the steep plains. Stopping at another road side mirador (viewpoint) we could see that it wasn’t just the goats that were agile round here. A narrow stony path led down to a small farm, perched delicately in a terrace with a sheer drop either side, even coming up to the road level to collect from the post box looked like something off The Krypton Factor.

The sun burst through again as we cruised into Playa de Santiago on the south coast, a mix of shingle beach and port. A nice collection of bars scattered around a small plaza, drew us in for a snack as we watched the world, well a very British and German slice of it, go by. A lot of the pleasure boats go out from Playa de Santiago, and up on the hill Tecina Golf, is the only golf course on the island. Dominoes was the main sporting action down at beach level, taxi drivers passing the time squatting around a small table and arguing as if it was a World title event.

Closing the circle, we took the final leg on to San Sebastian, just along the coast, but 34 kms taking the TF 713 inland and uphill before heading down again. After we took a quick look at Playa de la Cueva, hidden just to the east of the ferry terminal, I headed up the Mirador de la Hila, accessed via a side street behind the Plaza de la Americas, for a good overall panoramic view of the port and Playa de la San Sebastian.

With some time to spare before the 5pm ferry back to Los Cristianos, we had a little wander, I was pleased to see that the Pension Victor (pensions are cheap, basic accomodation) in Calle Real was still sporting its CD Tenerife mural from 4 years earlier. The Parque de la Torre, just off the sea front, was well worth investigating, created in September 1992 to mark 500 years since Christopher Colombus set sail from La Gomera to America, it has a small outdoor theatre space. The old tower, that gives the park its name, stands proud and the ground floor contains ancient maps and charts of the island.

The Fred Olsen ferry hooter called us to order for a smooth return, 4 years ago I caught the last ferry out before Tropical Storm Delta blew in. La Gomera has much more to offer, and I will certainly return, maybe in December when the next Atlantic Rowing Race leaves for Antigua.

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Either the BBC Sound Effects department was having a holiday in Vallehermoso, La Gomera, or we were surrounded by thousands of croaking frogs. A quick enquiry to a barmaid, and she confirmed with a roll of her eyes and a smile, that this was a regular after dark happening. The tightly terraced hills that cling to the rising plateaus of La Gomera, are fed by a series of small reservoirs, and we had seen earlier that the small northern village of Vallehermoso had many of these water retainers between the banana groves and orange trees, a perfect setting for a frog to sit and croak to it’s hearts content.

The last time I visited La Gomera, Tenerife’s nearest neighbour, was 4 years ago and I didn’t stray beyond the ferry port of San Sebastian, as I was covering the start of the Atlantic Rowing Race. So the idea of this 2 day trip was for me and the lovely Pam to see as much of the green and fertile island as possible. The 9am Fred Olsen ferry (55.68 € return or 27.84 with my residencia) crossed in 40 minutes and arrived to the first of many short sharp showers. We had pre booked a hire car with Piñero, based in the San Sebastian port building, and picked up our Seat Ibiza for 42 euros including insurance. I don’t drive but Pam was keen to hit the Canarian roads, so we headed up the east coast on the TF 711, the main road for the whole island.

A series of long, barely lit tunnels, and the quick downpours, added to the fun of the 40 km journey to Vallehermoso, but the sun had burst through in time for a coffee stop in Hermigua, home of the Gofio museum, at a small kiosk. From then on it was an upward climb with ever more stunning views from road side miradors, looking down to small deserted beaches and craggy rocks. By now the skyline was becoming dominated by Roque Cano (above) and after one last tunnel, we emerged to find our Rural Hotel Tamahuche nestling in the shadow of the 650 metre high rock.

The converted 1890 house (74.45 euros for our en suite double room and breakfast) impressed with setting, comfort and the sun terraces and gardens, which were bathed in sun as we checked in. Time to explore, we headed to the plaza (pic below) for a snack at a local bar and a chance to get our bearings. Most of the buildings had recently added new fronts, and the few people around seemed to be tourists, mainly German hikers, most of the bars seemed to offer cheap basic accomodation. Several of the local public buses passed through, the main towns are fairly well served, and the sedate, peaceful feel was only punctuated by cockerels straining to out crow each other. Cutting through a side street, we found the Church of San Juan Bautista, half way through a years renovation, although the bell in the clock tower was still in good voice.

A quick check of the map, and we decided to take the 5km drive down to Parque Maritima and the Playa de Vallehermoso, and arrived with the rain. The shingle beach was bordered to the east by a high cliff full of enough rock formations, stratas and colours to keep a geologist in raptures for hours. Behind the beach was a modern swimming pool and small cafe bar, and to the west, we followed a path close to an equally high and diverse cliff face, signposted for Castillo del Mar. A small fort type building, jutted out to sea, but the partially blocked access path, showed that it was abandoned. Notices warned that rock falls were a danger, but edging carefully up the stone steps, we could see signs of a recently used cafe/bar inside.

A public notice explained that originally this area was used as a loading bay and factory, featuring the islands first crane, brought over in 1890, but as bigger more modern ports grew around La Gomera, it was abandoned. Back at the Hotel, we discovered that a private company had turned the Castillo into a recreation area but had been forced to close a year ago due to council objections to their commercial operation.

A leisurely evening stroll was rewarded with some lovely Tuna and Cherne at the Agana bar restaurant in the village, and the slightly eerie rise of the frog chorus. The bars were friendly but to my horror, they shut at 10pm, never mind it had been a full day, more to come tomorrow.

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If it’s different, strange or downright bizarre, I’m always interested, so today I found myself in a church looking at the footwear of famous film stars. The exhibition Zapatos de Cine (Shoes of the Cinema) is at the former Convent of Santa Domingo in La Laguna and features 18 pairs of shoes and boots from some great movies of the last 50 years.

If you want some history, they have a pair of white slingbacks worn by Marilyn Monroe in the 1962 flick Somethings Gotta Give or how about some rebelious footwear, the 1955 vintage leather boots (below) worn by James Dean in Rebel Without A Cause. Maybe your feet will be tingling at the sight of this thigh length pair of brushed blue waders (steady boy) as worn in El Perro del Hortelano (Dog In A Manger) a former stage comedy.Â

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The display area is just a small space, and the exhibits are in slightly frosted plastic tubes, not easy for photo opportunities. Most of the items are on loan from a large private film memorabilia collection but there are some more modern samples on show. Try these gravity defying fashion shoes (below) from the film of Sex In The City (released in Spain as Sex In New York and not to be confused with the low budget British version -Sex In Bognor Regis), there is also a menacing pair of Arnies boots from the first Terminator film.

It’s not the biggest show in the World but Zapatos de Cine is FREE and worth shuffling along to, it’s just yards from Plaza del Adelantado (round the corner from the tram terminus) and is open Monday to Friday from 10am to 2pm, and 5pm to 8pm, plus Saturdays 10am to 2pm, until March 27.

If the word FREE made you sit up and take notice, you will like La Laguna, my tram trip from Santa Cruz bus depot was FREE on my Bono bus ticket, as I had just come off the 110 direct Titsa bus from Los Cristianos (make sure you have at least .95 cents on your ticket in case – I don’t want to drop you in for a big fine). Most of the shopping areas of La Laguna are pedestrianised, so it’s a nice place to explore and has several museums and historic buildings. There are FREE daily mid morning multi lingual sight seeing tours from the information centre, also just off the Plaza del Adelantado, but you need to book in advance.

It’s been a little while since my last visit so I called at the newly re-opened local produce market in Plaza del Cristo. The old market started to slide into a barranco, so just over a year ago a new one was built in record time, only to slide into legal wrangles. Now you can find it open every day from 8am to 2 pm, with 88 units, mainly inside, selling local fruit, veg, sauces, flowers, cakes and pastries – blimey it even has 2 bars and a state lottery shop.

A good vantage point to see over La Laguna is the tower of the Church of our Lady of the Conception. It’s pretty easy to spot, being 7 storeys high, last time I went it was a couple of euros to climb the tower but this time there was noone collecting and no signs about any charge, you know what that means – yep another FREE attraction. The bell tower gave me great vantage points of the surrounding area and even the planes coming and going at Los Rodeos airport. The wind was whistling through the ballestrades (feel free to add your own smutty inuendo) and I was so busy clicking away that the bells suddenly clanging noon, nearly made me jump over the side in shock.

At least I was able to restore my hearing over a coffee in the sun at a street cafe while watching a living statue, perform for the passers by. Yes La Laguna is a grand place to visit, and that’s not a load of cobblers.

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Blimey, I experienced the four seasons today in Tenerife, no not Vivaldi’s masterpiece,the pop group or the pizza, just the weather on the Ruta del Almendra (the almond blossom walk) from Santiago del Teide to Arquayo. Howling winds, drizzle laced with ice, strong sunshine, low clouds and even a rainbow, graced my footsteps, but nature had plenty more still to show me.

This is the time of year when the many almond trees in Tenerife burst into colour, with boughs full of white and pink petals, and each year the Santiago del Teide council, up on the west coast, arrange a mass walk along the route that cuts through the volcanic lava field created by the last eruption on the island. It was at Chinyero in November 1909, so this is a particularly important year to view its legacy.

Setting off early from Los Cristianos on the 473 bus to Los Gigantes, I changed to the 325 Puerto de la Cruz bus and just hit the Santiago del Teide plaza before 9am. Well I was half prepared, several layers kept my top half fairly warm but my exposed legs confirmed the rapid drop in temperature from the coast and though I was not sure where the wind was coming from, I had a damm good idea where it was going. The 120 walkers were soon checked in and we set off in groups, to the left and behind the town hall and onto the rough track leading down to the main road.

Peeling off at the Valle de Ariba turn, the wind blew strongly across as the small stream trickled by the path and the tall army of pine trees marched up the hillside ahead of us. There was moisture in the air and the odd fleck of ice as we made a right turn just beyond the church and headed upwards. The path was a mix of mud and large stone intrusions, a bit of a test for us all,but as we rose, a faint rainbow hung over the fields as the sun started to push through the clouds. The almond trees were now appearing in the fields around us, the blossom wasn’t as dense as it would normally be, thanks to the recent high winds and storms on the high ground, but the beauty was clear to see.

The recent heavy rain wasn’t all bad news. As we came over the brow of another hill, there was Mount Teide in the distance, wearing its white winter gown, the snow dazzling in the sun and contrasted by the dark green of the pine trees. After a suitable rest stop in a large clearing, we entered the lava field, just as the cloud condensed around us. The path became narrower and strewn with larger stones as we peered through the fluffy haze to see the rolling green hills either side of the lava.

Emerging onto the pine flanked earth track, the cloud dissolved away and the sun became a strong and welcome companion. Teide was clear again and seemed to change a little with each step, sometimes more intense and sometimes softened as cloud brushed past it. The end was in sight now as we started a sharp descent, zig zagging our way down the hillside towards Arquayo. The shifting shingle made it a slow and careful drop, well after coming so far, it would be a pity to bottom surf through the final section.

Taking the final steps from the route and onto the main road of Arquayo we headed for the cultural centre where the guides had more information for us on the history of the area, and we were served up a nice spread in the sports hall. The whole walk took 5 hours, though it seemed to speed by, and was an excellent way to enjoy another special corner of Tenerife.

My thanks to Santiago del Teide council for the invite, they are running walks throughout the year, more details on their website or www.elcardon.com . In the meantime, I will scan the maps for my next trek.

The council coach shipped us back to Santiago del Teide where I caught the 460 Icod to Las Americas bus, if you make your own way to this all year round route, check which buses dont run at weekends, they are few and far between.Â

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Clasped in the palm of nature, that’s how it feels to reach the natural bowl at the end of the Barranco del Infierno (Hells Ravine) in Adeje. The water fall tumbles down the towering rock face as the 7 million year old rock stacks lean inward. Surprisingly, considering recent rainy outbursts, neither the cascade or the pool that feeds the stream, is particularly raging but the view is still impressive.

It’s 4 years since I last trod this popular path and high time to re-aquaint myself with it’s insight into nature. Pre booking by phone the day before meant I could stroll casually up the hill from Adeje town, past the Casa Fuerte and old canon, to the reception hut. Amazingly the walk still only costs 3 euros, and although a free leaflet gives basic info, it’s well worth paying the extra 2 euros for the thicker in depth booklet. All the information and the helpful advice of the ticket seller and the 2 on route guides, are in several languages including English.

Setting off, the barranco falls away below me, there are knee high wooden stakes along the edge of the path but these are just for guidance, certainly not protection. My feet are tested every step by the changing terrain, from stone blocks to loose gravel and rutted tracks with the odd tree root for good measure. Only 220 walkers are allowed per day on the route to protect it, the paths are well looked after with bridges made from wood and the crossing water pipes, helping to breach the old water chanel as the cool liquid makes its way down from the heights.

The route is fairly narrow and I get used to squeezing to one side as I meet returning walkers looking to pass, the viewing points marked out along the way are also handy for this interchange, as well as great places to take photos. After a while the sounds of school children playing in Adeje fade and are replaced by a calm silence, nature has its own sound track, once my ears have attuned, I can hear bird song and insects rustling in the undergrowth.

Two thirds of the way down the walk is a rest point just before the final, more dangerous section. The high sides and constant wear of nature can sometimes lead to rock falls, so this last section is closely monitored and can be closed off at short notice if there is a problem. Thankfully on my visit all was well but I took the chance to top up with food and drink at La Cogedera (The Catching) before the final push and made a couple of nice discoveries. Just before the clearing I found 2 colourful and very tame birds pecking between some rocks. The Barbary Partridge (above) , the guide later identified it from my photo, posed nicely for me but would it have been so friendly if it knew I had turkey slices in my bread roll. Then settling on the large wooden chest at La Cogedera, I noticed a smug, well fed tabby cat sat on a rock near the stream, well why would you chase insects and lizards when passing tourists have much better scraps on offer.

Moving on into the final section I noticed the stream growing wider and deeper as willows sprung up all around and I had to weave my way around the twisted branches of the sabina trees. The ravine plunged deeper, looking up to the sky I spotted 5 para gliders performing a slow ballet on the thermal currents above the lip of the rocks. It was time for some careful footwork now as the stepping stones across the meandering stream were wet and slippery, but turning a final corner I found myself in the towering surrounds of the waterfall and rock pool, a fine reward for my efforts.

Heading back seemed quicker as I completed the 6,500 metre round trip, passing more eager explorers on the way. Back at my starting point I felt envigorated and pleased to note that it had taken me just over 3 hours including many photo and food stops. If you want to enjoy this challenge yourself, there are full details on the website. Next up for me, in 2 weeks time, is the Almond Blossom Walk from Santiago del Teide to Arguayo.