Looking down on the beaches of El Medano and ducking as the planes came and went from Reina Sofia airport, I heaved a contented sigh as an epic six and a half hour walk drew to a close. This was the latest of the Arona council free guided walks but my guide and the other 19 walkers bailed out just short of the climb to the top of Montaña Roja.

I had feared a repeat of the previous day’s calima and wild winds but a perfect clear and sunny day dawned as I met the other walkers at Las Galletas. The early part of the trek was a mix of raw nature and rampant development as we followed the coastal path through Costa del Silencio taking a few short cuts through holiday and residential complexes. The coast around and beyond Westhaven Bay is beautiful and rugged and it seemed that every spare outcrop had been claimed by a keen fisherman. As we rounded a corner we got a full frontal view of Montaña Amarilla. If I told anyone unfamiliar with Tenerife that we have a Yellow Mountain they might think I also believe that the moon is made of cheese, but the evidence was there in the distinctive tinge of the rocks as the rich turquoise sea lapped gently at the pebble beach.

This area of the coast is being protected and nurtured as a special site for quality diving with strict limits on the prime spots where Lime Urchin, Spotted Burrfish, Grey Triggerfish, and many more wonders mingle in their watery treasure chest. There’s more information on the area and the project at this website.

It was lovely to admire but the steep ascent up Montaña Amarilla was a tough test on the legs with rewarding views from the top. Coming down the other side Amarilla Golf and Golf del Sur loomed up in the distance but we had a snack stop on the large pebbled beach and enjoyed a light breeze. There were already a few camper vans sprinkled around but nothing compared to the motorcade that will swarm down for Semana Santa – Easter Week.

Skirting the two golf courses and San Miguel marina we were soon back on the concrete promenade passing San Blas before diving down to the beach again. Rock pools were teaming with young human life as well as sea creatures as we passed Playa Grande and hit Los Abrigos. Here the first dissent started to show as some walkers wanted to catch a bus to El Medano, thankfully the majority realised that this was advertised as a walk so we passed through the delightful Los Abrigos. Some of my Armada Sur football friends were sat outside a bar and teased me with their ice cold pints of Dorada – tempting but the taps would still be full later.

Coming out of Los Abrigos Montaña Roja loomed larger and nearer as we trudged along the sandy beach and onto the coastal path outside the banana plantations. Lots of different bird species hang out in El Medano and whilst a few shy and elusive visitors like the Corredor left us with just a snatch of bird song I did get a shot of this Whimbrel (Zarapito Trinador) on holiday from South America.

Veering away from the main road and kicking our way through the sand we eventually headed back to the camp site by the main road where the others swarmed on a bus stop ready to head back to Los Cristianos. Our travels had already gone beyond five hours but Montaña Roja was advertised as a key point of the walk and I had only seen the 171 metre high peak once before. I had water left in my bottle and one last smelly squashed salami roll so in my best stubborn mood I stomped off to find the main path I needed.

As the path curled around the base of the mountain and headed upwards, my legs were cursing me but the views were already getting even better. Only a few people passed coming down as I kept to the more rugged side of the corkscrew path. Within 30 minute I was at the peak by the concrete stack and admiring the busy airport and the beaches peppered with bodies, some of them nude at La Tejita. Looking back Montaña Amarilla seemed a long way off, the jagged coastline etched in my memory. A few photos and a gulp of water and I was picking my way back down, this time turning onto the path across the main beach and into the heart of El Medano just in time to catch the 4pm bus home. Definitely worth the extra effort.

The half full reservoir just above Arona hinted at the need for rain to avoid a summer drought in Tenerife. Later perched on the lip of Barranco del Rey, the centuries of lava and water erosion that had formed this deep chasm put it into some historical context. Tenerife has thrived on nature’s whims and in my ten years on the rock there has always been plenty of water to hose down the streets early morning and keep flower beds fed.

The day was certainly a hot one, even in the Plaza del Cristo de la Salud, Arona for the 9am start to the latest free guided Arona Ayuntamiento (council) walk. Sadly there were only seven walkers and our guide Virginia but we set off keenly, taking the path marked Camino del Toro 2.4 kms, the return down Camino del Suarez would be a tougher 3.9 kms, a pleasure to look forward to.

Bird song filled the air as we passed the reservoir and walked upwards parallel to the main Vilaflor road. Stone water channels were a constant companion on our route but their bubbling cargo was now encased in thick rubber pipes guided by their stone holders. As we veered away from the road and upward the path became steeper and rougher but the surroundings were soothing with plenty of plant life and distractions like an old abandoned house that we had a good nose inside.

Our slight detour to peer into the barranco that separates Arona from Adeje was soon followed by a stretch of better track that passed a small farm with some loud extrovert chickens and the El Refugio restaurant. Their sign promised rabbit and goat, maybe those chickens should cluck a little quieter if they know what’s good for them. Behind the restaurant was an old lavendaria, a basic clothes washing area, the water channels were once widely used for cleaning purposes.

Over the brow of the hill into Ifonche and we were greeted with a clear view up to the pine forests of Vilaflor, and what a glorious green vista it was. A quick dip in and out of the shallow end of the barranco and we found another old deserted house, this time with its own wine making room with a pressing area for the grapes alas it was dry. Turning a corner we were in a large threshing circle, moving to the front we could see why it was now a popular take off spot for paragliders. The land fell away below to reveal stunning views of Las Americas, Fanabe, and La Caleta with a cloud topped La Gomera rising up beyond.

To the right the peak of Montaña Los Brezos tapered to a point and on our other side Roque Imoque (below) rose like a twin guardian. What a perfect place for a food and water stop, several other walkers passed by in both directions at this point as we fed the lizards with scraps. Moving onto our downward spiral I was glad to see a sturdy wooden rail had been added to the first tight corner since my last visit several years ago. On the way down we saw some fine examples of Tabaiba Roja, normally found in the Teno area but thriving here. Sipping coffee in Los Cristianos I usually admire the front face of Roque del Conde but now I could appreciate the rear view and the cleverly crafted gravity defying terracing on the steep side.

The Camino del Suarez was a much harder corkscrew path but has a welcome break for some more old houses and some caves hewn into the sandstone like rock. There was even an entrance to a deep water gallery, nature has hidden some reserves for a not so rainy day. Just before reaching Arona there was the small matter of another steep sided barranco to clamber down and up, on past walks this always had a trickle of water running through it but this time it was parched.

With perfect timing we were back in Arona after a five hour muscle stretching workout, just enough time for me to sink a cold drink at the bus stop bar before my Los Cristianos bus gave me a restful ride home.

Soaking up the sun on Las Vistas beach in Los Cristianos it’s easy to see the distinctive candy striped lighthouse across the water, it’s a modern guardian looking over an ancient and fascinating protected area of Tenerife. Having enjoyed the first of Arona councils new batch of free guided walks I thought I would sign up for the last one of January, Malpais de Rasca.

Our group met up at Las Galletas at 9 am just as the unusually cold dawn transformed into a clear blue sky day, this time there were 16 of us including our guide Virginia, a good sign that the walks were gaining interest. Leaving the busy main road to Las Galletas behind a few strides opened up a well marked path to the rugged coast as we threaded our way through large clumps of cactus and tabaiba plants. Nature’s handywork in the twisted and sea sculpted outcrops of rock provided new delights with every step. The receeding tide had left a treasure trove of rock pools, I couldn’t resist checking out a few of them for signs of life but apart from a few scuttling crabs they were empty and sparkling as the waves lapped gently.

Passing the banana plantations we left the concrete walkway and entered the protected area of Malpais de Rasca as the lighthouse grew larger in our sights. Natural salt pools left by the sea were once used to soak gofio, one of the basic cereals that has been such a staple diet across the Canary Islands, the amarga tabaiba plant with its bitter toxic quality was also used to sedate fish in the larger pools. Taking a slightly steeper climb we crested a hill and got a good close up eyeful of the Rasca lighthouse.

Bagging is the name adopted by lighthouse spotters or if you want to be more scientific pharology is a better word, either way it was a double treat as the tall automatic red and white beacon built in 1978 sits alongside the original squat lighthouse building that dates back to 1898. The days when a family lived in the old house are long gone and the newer structure was receiving a generous cleaning spraying of water from the top balcony and from ground level. We rested and scoffed at this point, it proved to be a busy midway point for other walkers coming from Palm Mar and the modern road out to the road that links Las Galletas to the motorway.

Walking down onto the flatter area beyond we were able to see the remains of some old stone dwellings from the time when this was a well populated area. The closeness to the sea and farming of cereals and tomotoes made this an important part of the south. The morning was wearing on and the trickle of other walkers had grown to a flood, our destination was not right through but back to our start point via a slightly different inland route – or that was the plan.

Veering off from the modern road we headed across country to the point where the old fincas (farms) were abandoned and the walls fallen allowing access to El Fraile. It was at this point we discovered that a 20 metre high chainlink fence had been put up alongside the banana plantation sealing us in. Heading up towards the passing traffic on the main road we found a series of large gates firmly locked. Some of our more mature walkers showed remarkable agility in climbing a gate but luckily a few of the others found a loose flap of fence further along that we could squeeze through. Luckily we didn’t have to explain our breakout to any passing police, it added about 45 minutes to make the walk nearly five hours but the adventurous finish merely added a little spice to a very enjoyable excursion.

Droughts what are they? This little volcanic rock called Tenerife may get scorched by the sun all year but there’s always plenty of water, the fountain at Los Cristianos roundabout is a strong reminder of that. It may have been the meeting point for another Saturday morning walk but a quick car convoy and we were up above San Isidro for a coffee before heading up into El Desierto and Los Blanquitos.

Water was to be a recurring theme but before then there were other delights to encounter. With another hot, clear day down at the coast we had opted for higher ground to get some welcome air and it was a strong cool breeze that greeted us as we set off up hill. Behind and below us Montaña Roja and El Medano were spread out but in our sights we had a long clear road and unspoilt views to San Miguel and beyond to snow free Mount Teide.

Entering El Desierto we stopped at a home made belen (nativity) at the side of the road, this was a real labour of love and was more like a mini village with plenty of nice touches like washing hanging outside a house and geese gathered around a pond. Not many people would get to see this remote work of art but the creator popped over from his house and his pride at our enjoyment was clear. Lingering there it was lovely to see a scaled down version of the small traditional dwellings that peppered the hillside ahead of us.

Pushing on we dropped down into a dip and then up through the rougher terrain, old stone water channels are common up in the hills but many have been replaced by underground pipes. It was good to come across a large gushing water channel pouring downhill with a fair turn of speed, the stone stile over the crossing point was negotiated with a bit of team work. I was going to show off and jump across but knew I would make a prat of myself and took the easy option.

The rough pathway curled round in a semi circle with San Miguel sitting proud some way in the distance and soon we were coming into Los Blanquitos and the Tramo del Camino with its helpful information post pointing out the different types of basalt and over rock used to build walls and houses. Sticking to the narrow path alongside the TF 28 brought us to the church and a sarnie break. The views over the valley were a nice reward and the blue sky was untroubled except for the clear half moon. There was a full moon down below as a farmer used a wall as a lean to toilet – well it is Christmas so a real life Caganer isn’t too out of place.

Making the steady descent through the lower part of Los Blanquitos and El Desierto the pull on my leg muscles convinced me that this was a good advance penance ahead of over indulging over the festive season. The road eventually joined the point where we split off earlier to climb upwards and the pathway took on a familiar look. The breeze was still lively but the Euroguarapo bar was soon reached with the earlier coffee being swapped for something cooler. A good three and a half hour walk, already looking forward to the next challenge.