From neatly furled sails down to a steel hull, the 1,800 ton Mexican Navy training ship ARM Cuauhtemoc was not going to be shaded out by a dust filled calima hovering over Santa Cruz port in Tenerife.

For the Bilbao built vessel it was something of a home coming to Spain, the wood was polished and the brass was gleaming as they invited the public on board to see behind the scenes. Part of the crew of 249 including 25 ladies stood ready to answer questions and help young would be seafarers to pose like veteran sailors.

Entering its 201st year of service, the Mexican navy takes a yearly voyage to spread the word and add experience to the crews CVs. The last year had seen the ship call at Cadiz, Dubai, Malta, and they still had Barcelona and Rio to look forward to.

It was all well ironed uniforms and smiles as the ship gave up some of its secrets. Enticing smells wafted from the galley and mexican music had several visitors dancing around the decks. Two canons showed that noone would be taking liberties as the mighty craft roamed the oceans, a spirit born from Cuauhtmoc, the last of the Aztec warriors.

Rattling like a spoon in a tea cup, the awning of Fleytas Cafe bar had ambitions of becoming a hang glider. Within five minutes of swapping the wind swept corner just north of Santiago del Teide for a plunging Etjos track, the sun was radiating off bursting buds and springing sprouts of  leafy spreads.

Early January rain had raised hopes of seeing some rare birds in the pools left by many decades of soil excavation. Alas it was still defiantly dry, although the long term small birds were flitting along the hedgerows as the green corridors guided us along to the centre of Erjos. After that we just kept walking. Ruigomez had flashed by on previous Titsa bus trips to Icod, this time we stuck with a smaller lane that ran parralel and had some modern refurbs to old traditional houses.

A steep upturn and we were at a crossroads with the tell tale sign we needed and a neat bus stop emblazoned with the local name for the bus – guagua. There was clearly more footwork ahead ro reach El Tanque and we were happy to plod on. Ruigomez showed signs of flirting with tourism in recent years, the Pueblo Aborigen Guanche Park had long given way to a go kart ytack but even that was silent in these Covid times.

The nearby Camel Centre was doing its best to lure people in, from camel rides to freshly cooked steaks in their restaurant. Lets hope the camels couldn´r read all the signs. The church next door was a beacon of defiance, with or without the festive touches. That still left a fair old trot down into El Tanque by a series of meandering roads and paths. The Holy Cross church welcomed us to the centre of El Tanque , and a food and drink stop was very welcome.

Icod and Garachico are the big stars in this elevated rural corner of Tenerife, but the surrounding towns all have a story to tell that helps the appreciation of this north west outpost with its hidden delights.

Could it have been any worse? The first home Canarian derby defeat in 20 years for CD Tenerife, and to rub salt in, the winning goal was scored by Kirian, originally from Candelaria, a short drive down from the Santa Cruz home of the hosts.

Covid restrictions meant just a restricted half full capacity of 10,756 with no Las Palmas fans from Gran Canaria. Tenerife never recovered from a weak first half where Bermejo showed the best ideas going forward for the white shirted hosts. Las Palmas looked comfortable and their superiority of the first half was only uncrowned due to an outstanding defensive display from Sergio Gonzalez, and a pre break quality save from Soriano in goal.

More of the same followed in the second half and with barely 20 minutes left, several static defenders failed to clear danger, leaving Kirian to lob the ball past Soriano. Tenerife didn´t respond strongly enough, they looked light weight up front. Emmanuel came on and had a few soft headers but it was never going to be enough. At least one new forward player is the priority in the January transfer window.

The deafening silence of the missing Las Palmas fans mocked Tenerife, but they could have no complaints as the yellows were comfortably the better side. Tenerife must shrug off the blow to their pride and continue the chase for promotion. Maybe the teams will meet again in the promotion play offs and Tenerife can have the last laugh, but a lot of work remains until then.

Innocent, endearing, but darkly haunting. It´s 160 years since Alice In Wonderland tumbled into a rabbit hole full of trouble. I was grinning like a cheshire cat when I discovered the Oxford written  creation of Charles Dodgson (under the name of Lewis Carrol) had emerged at a Caja Canarias Fundacion exhibition in La Laguna. Appropriately, the setting was a university town, but in this case, just outside Tenerife capital city, Santa Cruz.

As a child I was familiar with the tales that wandered from the academic path of Dodgson with his chosen staid diet of maths and science. Let´s be honest, I was more familiar with the frothy milk shakes and cream cakes at The White Rabbit cafe in nearby  Cowley Centre, although a little less familiar with the full meals upstairs at The Lewis Carroll Restaurant.

Quarrelsome twins Tweedle Dum and Tweedle Dee, the savage Queen Of Hearts, Mad Hatter, and potions that shrunk and expanded Alice to giant size, hinted at dark forces. These underlying surreal twists are the focus of the exhibition. Salvador Dali and Max Ernst caught the bug in later life and added ideas to their paintings ans illustrations. The two storey building contains references to all this and more surprises. It´s even suggested that the ground breaking Hadron Collider particle acelerator was referred to as A Large Ion Collider Experiment or ALICE for short. Some of Alice´s universe has spread into other disciplines, the Jabberwocky poem from Through The Looking Glass established the bizarre creature as an iconic figure. maybe 90s post rave band The Mock Turtles were spurred on by the turtle featured in Wonderland.

Alice Liddel, the 10 year old child of a family friend of Dodgson, is said to be the inspiration for the fictional Alice. A surreal coincidence rounded off my trip ro the exhibition. Aster mentioning my Oxford connection, I was introduced to a young British family viewing the works. The father told me his interest was drawn to the display because they live in Lyndhurst in the New Forest, where the body of Alice Liddel is buried. How very curious!

Red and white stripes usually warn of wild seas but all was becalmed on a December afternoon stroll through the most inviting atmosphere of the east coast of Tenerife. Wind rurbines were frantically setting their own pace but the sea was still as boats bobbed lightly. Abades a little further south, normally gets the first feel of my toes but the sandstone and peeling paintwork made for a less formal view from the white blocks of houses at the Arico end.

A variety of coves, walkways, and boat launch sites had encouraged a sparse but splash happy few local families. There were rell tale signs of more hostile waves in rocks that were split apart like bread fresh from the oven. As the motorway pounded along at a higher level, a gentle grsdient led down to the lapping waves.

The gentle shelving allowed swimmers to stand waist high while new foot marks made their signature as children slid down the banked fine sand. It was like the coast was breathing with relief after an ambitious plan for three large new hotels came to nothing on the expanse of Abona that juts out into the sea.

The lighthouse looked magnificent in traditional candy stripes. More ancient intrusions on the skyline added character, the old rock stack chimney led onto the deserted shells of the intended leper colony that overlooks Abades. Time and a cure for the ancient curse denied the need for the mini village but the graffiti and murals add to the surreal feel of the area.

Abades was its usual friendy and welcoming self, slightly less water sports craft adorned rhe beaches but there are always plenty of nice hollows to cosey down in before rushing into the sea. An array of partially marked out plots is a throwback to an earler age of planned mass development. A new apartment block nestled low level near the shore, already winning converts to this special part of Tenerife. Long may it prosper in ts comfortable bubble.

Minus the wind and swirling sand of recent years, Los Cristianos beach was a much more sedate place to be on Christmas Day morning 2021 for the carol singing. The Swallows, our very active mature visitors from the UK were in good voice and very well organised.

It´s not easy rotating song sheets, props for the 12th Day Of Christmas, and fitting in food and drink, all between Covid masks and spacing. All the usual songs were rolled out, Oh Come All Ye Faithful, Silent Night, and of course the frantic 12 Days.

It was a good start to a fairly busy day, despite challenging restrictions for visitors to negotiate, most revellers were moving on later to meals and drinks – all fuel to the battered local economy. Up north of Santa Cruz, the music was mising but the hot sun packed Las Teresitas beach. A rousing start to the day – even those on sun beds were huming alomg in Los Cristianos.

Slippers seemed to be on for CD Tenerife in the second half of their home league game with Lugo. Elady had atoned for two glaring misses with a 38th minute strike but a VAR assisted penalty allowed the visitors a late equaliser and they nearly stole all three points with the final kick of the game.

A few days later, Eibar arrived for the Copa del Rey , and Tenerife were up against it after a 11th minute slip by Shaq Moore let in Garcia to grab the lead. There´s no VAR in the cup but Tenerife fans found themselves wishing there was when two home goals were ruled out and a Sam Shasoua penalty appeal was ignored. Sergio Gonzalez powered a header to level late on but the ref was suckered into giving Eibar a generous free kick after Exposito clashed with Mollejo and made out the home player had mugged him. The free kick was well taken but veteran home goalie Dani Hernandez looked a little slow to respond and narrow the angle. So farewell to the Cup.

Putting two good halfs together has become a problem for Tenerife lately, rash of bookings didn´t help in the league clash, The cup is often a stage to test fringe players, CDTs only concession was to give a first half run out to 21 year old Thierno on the left flank, The young gun put in some good crosses but it only served to expose the weaknesses of Emmanuel Apeh who backs off defenders too easily. Yhierno gave way to Sam Shashoua for the second half and Shaq Moore was back to his tough tackling best and Jeremy Mellot arrived to fill the left back slot – an answer as how to use the impressive American and French full backs together instead of a straight choice.

A bad week? Well one of the finest qualities of this Tenerife squad is its resilience, and once again they bounced back, this time with a stunning 0-2 win at Real Zaragoza to close the first half of the season. Elady with his 7th strike of the season, and Mollejo, had the game all gift wrapped within the half hour. That was sauce for the turkey as it put Tenerife in 3rd place, just a point behind the 2nd automatic promotion slot. As the players enjoy their parties, the club management will be working on fine tuning the squad in the January transfer window. 2022 could be an epic year, lets just hope we can continue to watch the games live.

Surging up off the motorway to Adeje town , visitors are used to a few well placed guardians looking over them. Christmas 2021 has added a whole new colourful level starting with a candle powered lantern on the rim of the barranco del infierno.

The Guanche warrior stayed true to his vigil as reindeer and sleighs eased in alongside him. The tolling of the festive season was well heralded by giant bells and holly leaves. The faithfull bombero (fireman) hardly flinched at his new neighbour.

The theme carried on up to Calle Grande where guards stood alert with candy canes by their sides. More surprises lurked higher up the street near the Plaza de España. A royal red post box awaited requests for the three kings, well it´s good to post early. This years new special addition was a high tech interactive belen collection of nativity scenes and sounds. QR access ensured a personal link to a world of visions and inspirations.

Just around the top road, the new multi storey car park made a perfect station for a very special vehicle pulling in. Nature added its own special backdrop and even the church steps had a scattering of the giant holly. It was the diversity and colour that turned a warm winter afternoon into a wonderland. The large plaza and the modern, upwardly expanding cultural centre stood ready to host a wide range of events across the festive season. Just follow that candy.

When tourist coaches spread their loads around Tenerife, many people hold onto their first impressions of an unfamiliar resort. That´s why I was overjoyed at the cleaming white new coat on MYND Adeje Hotel. Gone is the fire damaged former squat, so no more distraction from the arch to Sueño Azul one way, and the dark sand beach and coastal path back to Playa Paraiso the other way.

A work still in progress, the hotel flower borders were being sculpted, sports courts and sandy play areas were being laid, and small outside pools were coming on strong. Part of a new chain, the hotel will be followed by a similar plot at Playa Blanca, Lanzarote.

It was enough to make me leap off and  swap Titsa buses for a change of plans, pitching up at Alcala, a little further north along the coast, and with an early eye on christmas. News of the completion of the coastal walkway to El Varadero and on to Los Gigantes was a loose end I couldn´t ignore. La Jaquita beach  coves were a popular stop with there full range of cafes, toilets, lifeguards, and neat landscaping.

Rounding the main cove, the clear but unobtrusive path offered confort, shade, and even a few artistic designs. An hours link to the main road exit and busy resort of Playa de la Arena, and Puerto Santiago looked good with the protective fencing now removed. Nature had room to spread a little and was growing into its new home.

Into his second season, and still without a senior goal, 25 year old Nigerian forward Emmanuel Apeh hit a 55th minute winner to keep CD Tenerife in third position. The powerfully built striker was a surprise pick to start at home to bottom placed Alcorcon.

The game was dreadful, short of creative play of note, and littered with silly errors, Tenerfe had another experiment with the defence, Sergio Gonzalez did well spreading to his right to release French full back Mellot to add to his attacking education. Emmanuel  still looked unsure and predictable in the few coherent charges at their visitors.

The 11,800 crowd hoped for better in the second half. but it was stil turgid stuff after taking the lead, An Alcorcon defender stepped over a cross into the away goal as Emmanuel crashed in between a sea of legs and drove the ball into the underside of the net. Fame was short lived as coach Ramis replaced the scorer with Roberto Diaz just four minutes later. It may still be enough to rescue Apeh from a January transfer window loan to a lower division team for at least part of his remaining 18 months of contract.

Sam Shasoua was out of favour again fron the home squad. the coach knows how to serve up the surprises. Few local fans or media can predict his match line ups – but if they cant second guess him, the opposition has no chance. Long live confusion and long live the promotion dream,