Either the BBC Sound Effects department was having a holiday in Vallehermoso, La Gomera, or we were surrounded by thousands of croaking frogs. A quick enquiry to a barmaid, and she confirmed with a roll of her eyes and a smile, that this was a regular after dark happening. The tightly terraced hills that cling to the rising plateaus of La Gomera, are fed by a series of small reservoirs, and we had seen earlier that the small northern village of Vallehermoso had many of these water retainers between the banana groves and orange trees, a perfect setting for a frog to sit and croak to it’s hearts content.

The last time I visited La Gomera, Tenerife’s nearest neighbour, was 4 years ago and I didn’t stray beyond the ferry port of San Sebastian, as I was covering the start of the Atlantic Rowing Race. So the idea of this 2 day trip was for me and the lovely Pam to see as much of the green and fertile island as possible. The 9am Fred Olsen ferry (55.68 € return or 27.84 with my residencia) crossed in 40 minutes and arrived to the first of many short sharp showers. We had pre booked a hire car with Piñero, based in the San Sebastian port building, and picked up our Seat Ibiza for 42 euros including insurance. I don’t drive but Pam was keen to hit the Canarian roads, so we headed up the east coast on the TF 711, the main road for the whole island.

A series of long, barely lit tunnels, and the quick downpours, added to the fun of the 40 km journey to Vallehermoso, but the sun had burst through in time for a coffee stop in Hermigua, home of the Gofio museum, at a small kiosk. From then on it was an upward climb with ever more stunning views from road side miradors, looking down to small deserted beaches and craggy rocks. By now the skyline was becoming dominated by Roque Cano (above) and after one last tunnel, we emerged to find our Rural Hotel Tamahuche nestling in the shadow of the 650 metre high rock.

The converted 1890 house (74.45 euros for our en suite double room and breakfast) impressed with setting, comfort and the sun terraces and gardens, which were bathed in sun as we checked in. Time to explore, we headed to the plaza (pic below) for a snack at a local bar and a chance to get our bearings. Most of the buildings had recently added new fronts, and the few people around seemed to be tourists, mainly German hikers, most of the bars seemed to offer cheap basic accomodation. Several of the local public buses passed through, the main towns are fairly well served, and the sedate, peaceful feel was only punctuated by cockerels straining to out crow each other. Cutting through a side street, we found the Church of San Juan Bautista, half way through a years renovation, although the bell in the clock tower was still in good voice.

A quick check of the map, and we decided to take the 5km drive down to Parque Maritima and the Playa de Vallehermoso, and arrived with the rain. The shingle beach was bordered to the east by a high cliff full of enough rock formations, stratas and colours to keep a geologist in raptures for hours. Behind the beach was a modern swimming pool and small cafe bar, and to the west, we followed a path close to an equally high and diverse cliff face, signposted for Castillo del Mar. A small fort type building, jutted out to sea, but the partially blocked access path, showed that it was abandoned. Notices warned that rock falls were a danger, but edging carefully up the stone steps, we could see signs of a recently used cafe/bar inside.

A public notice explained that originally this area was used as a loading bay and factory, featuring the islands first crane, brought over in 1890, but as bigger more modern ports grew around La Gomera, it was abandoned. Back at the Hotel, we discovered that a private company had turned the Castillo into a recreation area but had been forced to close a year ago due to council objections to their commercial operation.

A leisurely evening stroll was rewarded with some lovely Tuna and Cherne at the Agana bar restaurant in the village, and the slightly eerie rise of the frog chorus. The bars were friendly but to my horror, they shut at 10pm, never mind it had been a full day, more to come tomorrow.

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It seemed quite appropriate that as the mourners fell to the floor wailing and rolling around showing off their underwear, they were just outside the Sex Boutique in Avenida Suecia, Los Cristianos. A closer look revealed that these “ladies” were in fact young men, keeping alive the tradition of leading the giant sardine through the streets to its cremation on the beach.

Just a quick history lesson, the funeral of the sardine refers to Lent, and the hypocrisy of the church, telling the masses to go without meat, while the church big wigs ate more or less what they wanted, leaving the others to make do with sardines, the plentiful local bounty of the sea. As a show of 2 fingers goes, this is one of the highlights of the Carnaval calendar, it seemed a little down on mourners this year but what it lacked in numbers, it made up for in dedication and dress sense. The parade was shadowed by a large contingent of police, to ensure that high spirits don’t get out of hand, I wonder what their instructions are? look out for any strange characters or anyone acting suspiciously? That just about covers most people present.

I can’t help feeling that the parade lost something when they switched from carrying the sardine shoulder high, to driving it along mounted on a decorated float, but to be fair, the old way took longer each year to make the short journey, and after hours of pushing through jostling bodies, the sardine usually arrived at the beach partly damaged.

Anyway, this years journey was pretty swift and well oiled, and a large enclosure had been set up on the old beach ready for the fish’s final moments. A few well placed burning torches and the fish did a passable impression of a dog, woof it went up in a blaze if fire. As the tongues of flame licked at the night sky, a barrage of fireworks was released, a fitting send off to our fishy friend.

Confession time. I missed the game yesterday, the lovely Pam is over for the Los Cristianos Carnaval (post below) so I was on my best behavior. CD Tenerife drew 1-1with Albacete, Alfaro scoring with a lovely low header after 29 minutes, but the visitors levelled 3 minutes later with a hotly disputed penalty from Toche.

My sources tell me that Luis Garcia had a great game in goal and was given a rousing ovation before, during and after the match, which pulled in another bumper 18,431 crowd. If, like me, you are eager to catch up with the action, visit the Armada Sur website, where they have a brief highlights video.

The other results were fairly kind to Tenerife, so they are still in a promotion spot, third on 49 points, 3 above Rayo Vallecano, equal to Hercules and 2 behind leaders Xerez. The dream is still very much alive and in CD Tenerife’s hands.

Calima, Carnaval, Coso and Los Cristianos, what a red hot combination. This afternoon as Tenerife baked in the 32 degree heat, and fought for breath in the hazy dust filled air, an army of brightly coloured revellers danced through the streets wearing make up, clinging costumes and elaborate head gear.

After seeing Santa Cruz Carnaval a couple of weeks ago, I must say that this was a much bigger turnout, both from participants and watchers. The road side was packed solid all the way from Paloma Beach Apartments, down near Montaña Guaza, right through to the finish at the Cultural Centre near the showground behind the Valdes Centre.

Vantage points were at a premium as people competed for the best view, bus shelter roofs, balconies and trees came into their own as everyone seemed to aquire Spiderman like powers to shin up any surface. An incessant drum beat powered the procession along, with the Carnaval Queen contestants mounted on floats, and the bands, dancers, and strutting peacocks showing nifty footwork as they danced along. Pride of place went to the newly elected Queen, 18 year old Marie Paula Silva (pic above) with her creation, Bollywood.

A few of the party people wilted in the heat, but the organisers had made sure there were ample free supplies of water to revive them. Things seemed to be getting a little heated too between the police and this skunk and mouse, the law had the “drivers” pulled to one side and were engaging in a frank exchange of views. Any real, and thankfully smaller, rodents were destined to find slim pickings as Arona council had their rubbish collection lorries following on at the back of the procession to clean up the empty water bottles and the odd stray wing, feather or outrageous wig.

Jolly Green giants, bone shakers or Gua Guas, whatever you want to call them, I’m a self confessed fan of the public bus service here in Tenerife. Last week I read that the comapny were tinkering with 8 routes from Saturday March 14, mainly cutting frequencies, but the big bombshell came on Saturday morning with reports that Titsa have clocked up 50 million euros of debt, 19 million of that in 2008.

I used the Aerobus last night, and after the early controversy and sky high price, it has now settled into a useful service, it was just 1.35 euros from Los Cristianos to the airport. The new timetable, now sees it run hourly rather than every 30 minutes, well that will please the taxi drivers. Among the other timetable changes is the addition of 2 new buses on the 472 Los Cristianos to Playa Paraiso and Callao Salvaje route, the other changes are more in the north around La Laguna.

Last year was the 30th birthday of Titsa, the Tenerife government owned bus service, the latest bombshell is bound to result in a cost cutting excercise and more route pruning, and maybe even cuts to the 1,600 work force. The company had definately been affected in the Santa Cruz region by the arrival of the tram, sleek, efficient and fast, it’s really packing them in. Titsa are also bracing themselves for the opening of the second Santa Cruz tram line from La Cuesta to Tincer, scheduled for May 30, the national holiday of the Canary Islands. So grab hold of your Bono cheap fair ticket, and hold on tight, it’s going to be a bumpy ride.

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You don’t have to look far for excitement in Tenerife, there’s always something going on. Take Las Galletas for example, a 15 minute drive or bus trip from Los Cristianos, and you are in a charming Canarian fishing village. Sleepy, you might think, but on Saturday 4 April they stage the Arona Blues Festival, followed the next day by the 13th annual Las Galletas half marathon.

The Arona Blues festival has become a popular event on the musical calender, and once again the FREE event has 3 acts performing in the Rambla area from 7.30pm. Take your choice from Six Fired Guys Dixieland Jazz Band, D’Ebony (with a little funk for your pleasure) or Anna Paula and her Brazil Blues. Maybe a drink or 2, the warm night air, and good company, sounds just the thing to ease you into another month.

If it’s not too taxing a night, you can then get up to see the Las Galletas half marathon hit the streets from 9am. Better still, if you are energetic, you still have time to register and take part. There are various age groups, so you can find a level to suit you, and the route is a pleasant one. Leaving from Las Galletas, you run up to El Fraile, turn off right at the Palm Mar roundabout, head for Guargacho, and back past the Costa del Silencio turn and into Las Galletas.

To join in, get yourself signed up by April 2, it will cost you 10 euros, including your electronic timer tag, and you can sign at the Los Cristianos sports hall on Avenida de Chayofita (the main road into Las Americas) or go via the race website.

Maybe it’s just best to bank the point from this 2-2 draw in Alicante, and hope we can laugh about it later as we sip promotion champagne. CD Tenerife played some great football and at 2-0 up after 36 minutes, were sitting pretty. However a defensive howler and a late sucker punch meant a share of the spoils against their second from bottom hosts.

Losing inspirational goalkeeper Sergio Aragoneses, possibly for the rest of the season, in the week with pancreatitis, was a big blow but with the message of support on the players training tops and the opening TV shot of the Armada Sur flag held proudly aloft, their was a feeling that we would overcome all. The spirit was clear to see as Tenerife tore into Alicante, Richi blasted the ball past both goal posts in the first 10 minutes and Luis Garcia, guarding the CDT net, had to wait until the 23rd minute for an easy pick up, his first action. A few minutes later, the replacement keeper made a good save from an Alicante free kick, and Sicilia made a great clearance to repel a rare attack.

The first goal, just aftet the half hour mark, saw Nino feed the ball through to Alfaro, who wrong footed 2 defenders and slotted the ball in the net. Three minutes later it was 2-0, Nino (pic in previous action) heading past the keeper this time, it looked so easy.

There was an early second half warning as Gill flashed a free kick wide of the CDT goal and Sicilia made another of his telling blocks. Alfaro fired a shot straight at the home keeper, Nino was squeezed out by 2 defenders, and at the other end, Luis Garcia did well to save a low awkward free kick. The confidence was punctured though after 66 minutes when Garcia failed to punch away a header from Jorda, and Martinez, well placed at the goal line couldn’t make clean contact with his head, and the ball continued into the net as it glanced off him.

Ricardo came close to restoring the 2 goal lead, and a lovely back heel from Kome just failed to find Nino. On the 82nd minute Borja was on the end of a move that sliced Tenerife open, and he tied the game. Angel came on and prompted a few late chances but in the end Tenerife had to settle for a draw.

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A wide and interesting range of international art and culture, that’s what we were promised when Tenerife Espacio de las Artes opened in Santa Cruz in November 2008, and they have excelled themselves. Maybe I can alert you to a couple of multi talented visitors who can draw on a wealth of artistic and creative achievements.

Peter Greenaway CBE is best known as the director of The Cook, The Thief, His Wife, and Her Lover, the 1989 film that earned critical attention and controversy in fairly equal measures. But this Newport (Wales) born and Essex raised artist, is also a well respected painter and has made TV documentaries. On Tuesday March 24, he will be holding court at TEA from 7pm, and will be discussing the many influences that have coloured his rich landscape.

Another artist that has stretched the boundaries is Patti Smith, the hard bitten New Yorker was at the forefront of the American punk and New Wave scene and had a huge international hit in 1978 with Because The Night, a song she co wrote with Bruce Springsteen. Still rocking, Patti has many more strings to her guitar, and will be launching an exhibition called Written Portrait, at TEA from Friday May 22 to Sunday September 6, in her guise as a poet and writer. It will feature a range of her work, including paintings and black and white photos. Patti has never been afraid to air her views and is a passionate speaker for green and political issues, as well as a leading critic of the war in Iraq.

TEA is a star in its own right, a 20,000 square metre visual feast, that is a fitting home for the arts in Avenida San Sebastian, opposite the African Market. Full details of what’s on offer can be found at the website www.teatenerife.es .

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Colour, noise, passion and wild excitement in Santa Cruz, it’s expected at Carnaval time, but this year the biggest show of all was in the Heliodoro stadium as CD Tenerife added more momentum to their promotion push, with a 3-0 win over Celta Vigo.

Even the most ardent Tenerife fans couldn’t have expected such a storming start, 2-0 up in 10 minutes, and looking hungrier than Fred Goodwin at bonus time. The 18,740 fans once again did their bit, welcoming the players with thousands of blue and white balloons, flags, banners, and a wall of sound. Carnaval characters danced with the crowd and long before half time, a Mexican wave was rippling around the stadium.

Alfaro started the scoring after just 3 minutes, blasting the ball in the net from outside the area, after Juanlu had led the charge. Tenerife now have the confidence to attack their opponents from the start, knowing that the rearguard is solid,and defenders will push forward to add to the threat. Centre back Luna was up in the thick of the action and perfectly placed to head a second goal just 4 minutes later, with Alfaro turning provider this time.

Tenerife’s dominance was total, they created chance after chance, Kome and Ricardo were in top form in midfield but it was the all round team display that had the crowd purring. Into the second half, and that all important killer goal arrived after 10 minutes, Juanlu again involved, but the little magician, Nino produced one of his trade mark moments of quality to give the keeper no chance.

So CD Tenerife hold firm in the 2nd of the 3 promotion places, with lowly Alicante away next week. At the other end of the table, the Pios (Las Palmas) are slipping into the relegation zone after a 4-2 loss to Hercules – how sweet would it be to see the teams go in opposite directions at the end of the season. Promotion rivals Rayo Vallecano have their own internal problems, this week defender Carlos De la Vega was arrested with 2 former players in a 600 kilo drug bust. But CD Tenerife have their destiny in their own hands, and there has never been a better time to proudly wear the blue and white.

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