With a 0-1 lead at Cordoba from a first Naranjo goal, a penalty save, and a steady recovery after Luis Perez was sent off, CD Tenerife thought things were looking up. Then in injury time the roof fell in as a 25 metre pile driver made it 1-1 to leave the visitors still looking for their first win. Coach Jose Luis Oltra, back in charge 10 years after weaving his promotion magic, must have thought his bold tactical revamp had reaped its reward but now he knows he can´t rely on any help from Lady Luck.

Oltra rung the changes and started with a very fluid defence, Aveldano replaced Carlos Ruiz, and defender Luis Perez played further up with Jorge covering across as a part time right back, a role he performed with some style. Alberto didn´t cope as well with his deep midfield role and extra responsibility to fill in the centre of the defence. The forwards got some early encouragement with Naranjo forcing a corner, and Nano setting up Acosta before the goalie gathered the ball. Jaime Romero was the danger man for Cordoba, but wasted a free shot after 10 minutes. Tenerife produced their first half chance when Nano slipped a pass to Bryan Acosta before the goalie raced out to claim it. There was an air of desperation about Cordoba, sharing the relegation zone with Tenerife, and there was no romantic intent when Quintavilla gripped Naranjo´s hand, it was just to pull him back when he looked like setting off on a goal bound dash.

Quezada tried to grab Perez and having failed, dropped to the floor clutching his face, it earned him a free kick and a booking for the Tenerife player. The kick was heading for the visitors goal but Dani Hernandez was decisive and punched the ball clear. It was a sultry night more suited to Tenerife, a water break on the half hour quenched a few thirsts, Jaime was still hungry for a goal and tested Dani with a dipping cross that the keeper handled well. It signalled a mini siege from Cordoba, Alberto half cleared with his head, and Dani turned aside another Jaime effort. Tenerife had the last word for the first half, Naranjo was flattened by Bambock and hit a long shot free kick that took a deflection before hitting the back of the net for a half time lead. After the break,the home goalie was fortunate to get a second grab at the ball from an Acosta shot as Nano ran in for a possible follow up. The keeper did better when running across his goal mouth to thwart Acosta with a fine one handed save.

Tenerife suffered a big blow after 60 minutes when a loose Perez tackle got him a second booking and a sending off, Raul Camara came on for Nano to shore up the defence and Cordoba sensed hope for them. Aveldaño blocked Jaime well at the post, and Dani made a great feet and body save from sub Jovanovic. Hector replaced Camille, it would have been nice to see some width introduced through maybe Suso but it was understandable that Oltra wanted to hold on to the win. Alfaro had joined the Cordoba attack from the bench, a former big star in Oltra´s golden season with Tenerife, his soft shot showed that the years had caught up with him. Acosta spurned an easy chance to make it 0-2, Naranjo made the run and fed him the ball but his hesitation allowed a defender to get an intercepting foot in.

Just six minutes remained when Jorge pushed a Cordoba player over in the box and Jaime stepped up to take the penalty. Dani judged it magnificently and saved with his feet. Still in front and still believing, Tenerife were in injury time when a screaming free kick from Aquado pole axed them, Dani had no chance of stopping it. Alfaro could have made things worse when he broke free but Dani was quick to scoop up the ball. Even the final seconds of the game betrayed Tenerife, a Cordoba defender body charged Alberto to the floor in the box but the ref was unmoved and blew the final whistle.

Delayed by their inter island flight, Las Palmas C should have been there for the taking by hosts CD Marino, but neither side really took off in the forward areas and a 0-0 draw was always on the cards. The Gran Canaria side showed no ill effects of their rushed warm up and produced the best of the early exchanges. Home goalie David had to smother an early shot from Pipo, the liveliest of the Las Palmas strikers. Yeremi set up Adrian in front of the home goal mouth but Favarel blocked him well. A free kick from Stefane sailed high over the Marino goal as the blues struggled to make an impact with long hopeful balls.

Marino came more into the game when they used Javi Gonzalez on the left and Fayez on the right flank, the Las Palmas defenders found them hard to deal with. The final touch was lacking though, Yassine and Gaizka weren’t having the best of games and Ramirez in goal had few threats to deal with. On the half hour, Fayez put a perfect ball to the feet of Yassine but his shot was poor. Javi Gonzalez was causing plenty of problems for Las Palmas, and tried his luck with a curling shot that flew wide. This was Marino’s best spell of the game, Israel under 19 player Fayez came close with a strong header, and followed up soon after with a strike that deflected away off Anthony. Marino should have turned their advantage into goals, Connor rounded Pipo to feed Ammed whose shot missed the target. Las Palmas were relieved to go in at the break on even terms.

Changes were needed, Marino restarted with Sesma arriving from the bench to patrol the right side, giving Ammed the chance to play a more central role. Javi nearly made the breakthrough with a speedy break that ended in a Sesma header wide. A low shot from Guti could have caught the Las Palmas goalie out but he was alert and claimed the ball. Marino will wonder how they let the visitors off the hook, Sesma turned his marker but shot the wrong side of the woodwork, and Stefane made a timely tackle on Yassine when he headed for goal. At the other end, Favarel hooked the ball clear of danger when the yellows put together a break down the middle, and Omar spurned a chance by heading wide.

The easiest chance for Marino came with a free kick inside the penalty area, there was much discussion among the Marino players grouped around the ball but the kick was straight at the defensive wall. Going into the last five minutes, Ammed and Juan clashed when jumping for a 50-50 high ball. The ref over reacted by giving Ammed a second booking and a sending off to leave Marino with ten men. Las Palmas couldn´t believe their luck and launched a late offensive, David made an outstanding double save, and Fuentes skewed his shot away from the goal. The last shot of the game fell to Sesma and was easily dealt with by the goalie. Neither side could complain about the draw as they had made enough openings to have taken the three points.

Nano and Naranjo sound like a firm of accountants but the strikers have failed to bring any net gains to CD Tenerife this season. The lowest point so far came with a 0-1 home defeat to lowly Reus, bringing the new league season form to 3 draws and 2 losses, plus a 1-2 home defeat to Cadiz in the Copa del Rey. As other results put Tenerife in the drop zone, the club acted quickly to sack coach Joseba Etxeberria and appoint Jose Luis Oltra who took Tenerife into La Liga in the 2008-2009 season.

Inevitably fingers were pointed at coach Joseba Exteberria but he did all the right things this game, starting with Undaberrena in midfield and Hector Hernandez at left back after their impressive debut showings in the midweek cup defeat. The starting line up also included the clubs best players, Luis Milla and Bryan Acosta in midfield. Tenerife looked bright in the first half, a Suso cross was helped on by Naranjo but Malbasic was slow to react and the chance had gone.

Veteran Suso has been putting the younger players to shame and continued with a couple of early raids, including a defence splitting diagonal ball to Naranjo that the goal shy striker lost to a defender. An old nemesis came back to tease Tenerife, Edgar Badia in the Reus goal had proved himself before to be a mix of inspiration and irritation, he inspired his team mates with some great saves and irritated Tenerife with his constant gamesmanship and delaying tactics. After Malbasic had headed a chance at the keeper, Acosta hit a fierce shot that Edgar tipped over. At the other end Dani Hernandez had only one first half chore, taking a routine shot from Reus player Borja Herrera.

One of the best home moves came on the half hour, Undaberrena fed Acosta who brought another splendid save from Edgar. Luis Milla got a slice of the action with a goal bound strike that was headed clear, it all looked very hopeful at the half time break. Time was Tenerife´s enemy, a win was vital and Reus were happy to sit back and frustrate as the second half got underway. Another Acosta effort was easily dealt with by Edgar and a rare Reus attack ended with a header off a post. Naranjo was useless, no supportive runs, no holding up the ball, and no clear attempts on goal, no wonder he was off after 55 minutes, could his replacement Nano find his first goal? The La Laguna born strikers first touch of the ball was easily blocked by Edgar.

Milla went close with a low drilled shot, an Acosta corner missed defenders and attackers alike and the frustration of the 9,532 crowd was growing. Next swap was Montañes for Undaberrena, that should have given Tenerife more width down the left but it didn´t really work. It was all happening on the other flank, where Suso was busting a gut to prise open the Reus defence, Villanueva fouled him in the box but the ref wasn´t interested in giving a penalty. Tenerife had to push forward and Reus fancied their chances on the break, Ortiz pounced on a loose ball and headed towards the Tenerife goal, a pass to Alfredo left him facing Luis Perez and Dani Hernandez at the post. With the help of a rebound, Alfredo forced the ball in the goal as Dani hesitated.

Just 10 minutes remained to salvage the game, forward Borja Llarena came on for defender Jorge for the final push but Reus dug in. Edgar used every trick in his power to waste time and Tenerife didn´t have the cutting edge to break through. Four minutes of injury time didn´t help, Nano´s only real contribution of the afternoon was a last minute low shot straight at goalie Edgar. There were some whistles from the crowd at the end, a sign that the tide was turning against the coach and some players. No new players can be brought in until the January transfer window, that left the coach as the easy option for change but Nano and Naranjo were both long term targets for sporting director Serrano, maybe he should take some of the flack. That first win of the season is like a long overdue train, away to another of the new boss´s old teams, Cordoba on Saturday 22^nd September,it wouldn´t be a moment too soon.

For all the modern development and tourism growth, Los Cristianos still has a strong beating heart built on the old fishing traditions that made the port an important hub of commerce years before a flip flop or bucket and spade plonked down on the beach.

Once a year local pride erupts into a big spectacular homage to the Virgen del Carmen, the patron of the fishing community. With a great sense of timing, Arona council unveiled a new statue by Inma Serrano outside the cultural centre just a few days before the celebrations. One of my favourite events of the days of music and dance is the Fiesta del Sombrero on the Saturday afternoon in the small Plaza del Amalia Alyon. The hat fiesta is always bold, loud, and inventive of amazing creations are popped on peoples heads as they enjoy the big family buffets and the infectious dance music from the DJs. All ages come together to show off their sea and fishing themed creations, the detail is impressive and there are usually a few cheeky digs at those in authority.

I had been tempted by the line up of inflatable water castles down at the Plaza del Pescadora but apparently I´m a little too old to splash around on them, so I immersed myself in a sea of hats. A fish fiesta a week before featured lots of historic photos and boat models depicting the history of local fishing, they even had a new temporary lighthouse looking out across the old beach.

The Sunday activities came to a climax with the statue of the Virgen being carried around town from her church home, and then taken out on a fishing boat at the head of a flotilla of other craft in full party mood. At night the firework display was even bigger and more stunning than ever, I enjoyed a great view from The Victory Bar in the Apolo Centre, very appropriate with the sea theme.

San Sebastian twinkled in the early morning sun as the Fred Olsen ferry chugged into the main port of La Gomera, just a 40 minute crossing from Los Cristianos in Tenerife. My return visit was long overdue and memories of seeing off a couple of Atlantic Rowing Races from the marina flooded back. This time the Tour de Tenerife cycle race had lured me back thanks to an invite from the British team, Stuart Hall Cycling.

On the short walk to the pits area just behind the main beach, I passed a trussed up sculpture of Christopher Columbus, ready for unveiling as part of the local fiesta. The explorer stopped off at the island on his way to discover America and also has a park and a tower named after him. I’m sure he would have approved of the in depth preparations for the second stage of the cycle race. Some teams had their own treadmills to warm the bikes up but many were just keen to whizz up and down the coast road and blow away a few pre race cobwebs.

I had a close up view of the racing from the British support car as the riders tackled steep rises and plunging falls as they circled the outer edges of the island. Here’s a link to my Canarian Weekly coverage, for me it was a magical reminder of the beauty and contrast of the island. Many villages we passed through produced crowds of well wishers, and the sheer drops beyond the cliff roads were a start reminder of the dangers involved. Some riders had to make nifty stops as they overshot corners or were nearly mugged by rogue brambles. Roque de Agando was a sight to behold, and San Sebastian port looked lovely as we hurtled downhill on the rush to the finish line. The local whistling language, Silbo, warned many ancient farmers to be careful on the terraces and tight turns, and Silbo still holds its place in the Guiness Book of Records as one of the worlds oldest surviving languages.

Just over two hours later, riders were streaming back into the pits area with a clean bill of health but frantically racing pulses. After a welcome reception meal at the local hall, I nipped out to catch up with some favourite sights. The La Gomera government building stood proud and noble at the front of the main plaza but I headed deeper in and up a steep back street to an old “mirador” viewpoint for a full frontal of the beach, marina, and port.

Just beyond the port the Playa de la Cueva beach was quiet and restful, with two craggy outcrops and a tight winding path leading up to an old beacon holder where the Olympic torch of 1968 paid a visit, the anniversary was to be marked in a few days time. Normally there are clear views across to Tenerife and the familiar peak of Mount Teide, but a hazy calima denied that possibility. I couldn’t resist the chance to pose a few special photos, the Angeles Verdes (Green Angels) were part of the race support team, doing a sterling job clearing roads ahead of the cyclists, it was a pleasure to meet them and all the other fabulous people who made it such an enjoyable day.

Time, tide, and inter island ferries have deadlines to meet so we all piled back on our returning ferry to Los Cristianos. This time the evening sun was our companion – along with some top memories. Here´s all my pics from the day.

For a town that has suffered from natures worst moods, Garachico has a resilient smile and a heart as big as its famous spit of volcanic rock that sits just off the coast. I had been to many Romerias before but this was the biggest, noisiest, and tastiest celebration of the people, animals, and food that thrive in this fertile north western corner of Tenerife.

The road down from Icod opens up a breath taking first view of the Garachico coast but the narrow back streets were the scene for well groomed donkeys and oxon loaded up, and tethered to large carts full of revellers. A slow musical procession eased its way down the streets that were lined with proudly worn Canarian costumes below wooden balconies overflowing with banners, baskets, and blankets. All the senses were getting a good full on blast, drums and flutes laid down a steady rhythm as voices swirled in song. Noses were fully tweaked by the smell of meat cooking on small grills hung onto carts, and generous pourings of local wine being dispensed to anyone holding up a glass. Everyone on the parade seemed to have handfuls of eggs, bananas, gofio, bread, pastries, and cheeses, and they were not shy in offering it around.

Looking up through BBQ smoke, bunting and hats, I could see the main man, San Roque riding high on top of a bed of flowers, the day was dedicated to him. San Roque was a French religious pilgrim who became a saint who could repel plagues, so when Garachico was devastated by bubonic plague at the start of the 1600’s, locals built the small white chapel, now neighboured by the new marina on the road into Garachico. Their prayers were answered as good health returned and he became the towns patron saint with 16^th August set aside as his special day. Garachico knew a lot about suffering, it was originally the capital and main port of Tenerife but a volcanic eruption in 1706 wiped out a large part of the port and produced the craggy mini island. The tides have also given the town regular poundings over the years, but they always bounce back.

Back at the parade, the musicians were keeping up the tempo with timple, guitar, and tambourine inspiring outbreaks of dancing. All vantage points were taken advantage off, and a range of generations showed that the great traditions were in no danger of fading away. Waistcoats and those thick Canarian socks must have added a few more notches to the baking feeling of the smartly dressed revellers, its a good job there were plenty of fluids to quench the thirsts. As the parade ran its course, attention started to turn to the marina area with its small modern fun fair. It was a magnet for the younger party crowd, and close to the small church that started the link with San Roque. Very appropriate on such a special day.

Battling for hearts and minds, the Greenpeace ship, Esperanza (Hope) welcomed a surge of curious visitors aboard on a three day stop over in Santa Cruz. But there was no sugar coating for their message of concern over the over active development and pollution of the Canary Islands in general, and Tenerife in particular.

The crusading organisation was founded in Vancouver in 1971 and has always taken direct action against what it sees as assaults on the environment. Before I could skip up the gang plank, spokes person Paloma Nuche flicked through a thick report book full of findings from surveys into the ongoing state of land and sea through Spain, and pointed out some key figures relating to Tenerife. “ In the last 30 years, the growth of urbanisation has been 130% compared to the Spanish average of 105%. Canarian government records show that of 394 waste output points around the islands, 277 are not legal. In Tenerife 113 of 172 are not legal. ”

That last point had been brought home in the preceding week when the west coast Playa Chica in Puerto Santiago was closed for bathing due to a large stain floating in the sea. Then there´s also the on going drawn out legal cases against years of unapproved quarrying in Guimar, and countless cases of legal fights to close illegal building developments. All fuel to the Greenpeace cause. But the visit of the Esperanza was not just to raise red flags, it was also a chance to recruit further members and donations, Greenpeace point out that they don´t accept donations from political or economic organisations.

The ship struck a defiant note with its dark green livery and rainbow logo but I was keen to join the tour to find out more about the vessel. The biggest of three owned by Greenpeace, Esperanza was built in Gdansk, Poland in 1984 and worked for the Russian army fire service as well as seeing action in the arctic due to its ice breaking capabilities. Greenpeace bought it in 2002 and gave it an eco makeover, removing toxic paint, and replacing the original engines with electric motors capable of producing a speed of 16 knots. The bridge looked impressive with its mix of manual and digital controls, and as publicising and exposing unethical practices is part of the aim of Greenpeace, the communications are top notch, even on the high seas Wi Fi is always available.

The full time 16 strong crew do long shifts of up to 24 hours at a time and rotate three months on board and three months off duty. The rest of the crew are volunteers, up to 35 at a time. As the ship can run into any situation, they have a heliport and sometimes hire a helicopter, monitoring illegal fishing was one use that called for the chopper. The Zodiac boats became famous in the early 1980’s when they tried to stop Spain from dropping nuclear waste barrels into the sea by diving the Zodiacs under them, photos of those encounters are displayed on the bridge. Esperanza also has four pneumatic boats, two of theirs saw action when confronting Repsol oil exploration ships off Gran Canaria in 2014.

The stop off in Tenerife posed some uncomfortable questions, whether the right answers can preserve the unique qualities of the Canary Islands in time is down to radical changes in long standing habits. Meanwhile Greenpeace are not about to sail quietly into calmer seas.

Don’t worry this isn’t going to be one of those awkward talks like the birds and the bees, it’s a much more relevant and inspiring tale of ducks, turtles, and a whole chorus of frogs. Santa Cruz is as bustling and busy as many other capital cities, so it’s nice to know there are some delightful, shaded corners where the pace of life slows to a drip.

Parque Garcia Sanabria is a particular favourite of mine, an oasis of greenery, fanning out from a central fountain. It was only a couple of years ago that I finally made the short stroll up the left hand street as you face the park entrance, to find the beautiful Plaza de Los Patos. It’s famed for it’s centre piece, a ceramic tiled pond, overlooked around its circular edge, by eight frogs,all spraying water towards a large duck doing likewise from the back of a turtle. It sounds like a strong cheese enduced hallucination but it’s a wonderful work of art.

This 1,330 square metre haven of peace was originally called the Plaza de 25 July, after the defeat of Nelson when he tried to invade Tenerife with the British Navy in 1797, one of the official surrender ceremonies was made in the plaza. The alternative name, plaza of the ducks, is a little misleading as only one duck stands guard, the fist time I glimpsed the area it was looking tired and run down, well it was built from 1913 to 1917. A recent makeover has restored the glory, not only to the pond, but also the 20 benches surrounding it.

The benches, also covered in ceramic tiles, depict popular advertising campaigns. I bet they could tell a tale or two about courting couples, and I;m sure they have calmed many a hassled shopper having a stressful day in the big city. The sun filters through the trees that surround the centre piece, so you get a choice of sun or shade. Five roads (or frog and toads) converge on the plaza, and the cute former English church of San Jorge (Saint George) is on hand for another taste of history. It was so good to see the plaza back to its best, another hidden gem that´s well worth seeking out.

From Northampton to Tenerife may seem a strange connection, but the Northampton in question is the one in Massachussets, USA, and the journey is the growth of womens basketball from its birth in 1893. Arriving in Tenerife, the 2018 Womens Basketball World Cup will showcase the strides the womens game has made, as well as bringing international media interest to Santa Cruz and La Laguna where the elite 16 countries will battle for the trophy between September 22nd and 30^th.

To back up the tournament, a free exhibition, 1893 From Northampton To Tenerife, is taking place at the Casa de Capitanes in La Laguna. I popped in to stroll around the display cases of memorabilia from those early days of the sport. James Naismish had only invented the sport two years earlier in Springfield, Massachussets, using peach baskets and a very heavy looking ball, so the ladies were quick to recognise the attractions of the game. A Lithuanian immigrant, Senda Berenson adapted the basic rules, and the first womens game tipped off between two teams at Smith College in Northampton.

All this was news to me, and well presented in the roomy hall with plenty of exhibits supplied by the Spanish Basketball Federation. Spain has taken the sport to its hearts, the first womens international in 1963 setting the nation on its way to a bronze medal at the 2014 World Championships in Estambul, Turkey, and onto the gold medal at the 2017 European Championships in Prague. There was a nice selection of shirts, medals, programmes and other souvenirs in the exhibition.

La Laguna is a good setting for the display, basketball is big in the town, the mens team Iberostar Tenerife play at the Pabellon Santiago Martin, known locally as the hamburger, and compete in Spain´s top league. The CD Canarias club , founded in 1939, has youth teams at all ages, and of course womens teams, the Iberostar games attract near 4,000 crowds with families making up a big part of the attendance. The exhibition is part social history as well as a celebration of sport for all. It´s open daily until 5 pm, a short hop from the tram terminus and next to the Tourist Information office, entry is free and the information is in Spanish and English, it will run until the end of the World Cup.

Some lunch breaks back in the Oxford meant a cheeky beer, but when my Tenerife office base was Alcala while working for The Western Sun newspaper, lunch break meant a refreshing dip from the quay side and a few sarnies as I dried out in the sun. No wonder wild horses were not needed to get me back up the west coast for the Alcala Craft Beer Festival.

How different from my mid week swims was the scorching Saturday crowd of local families that filled nearly every speck of space on the quay and in the sparkling sea water. The festival stands were squeezed together by the harbour wall with a few marquees and a food truck when I arrived early afternoon. I started with a familiar brewery, Tacoa, I had visited their pub restaurant in El Sauzal years ago to write a review and was mightily impressed by the five hand pump ales on offer. Surf Beer at 4.5% seemed an appropriate first tipple. The festival beers were mainly in 33 cl bottles with a few on draught in half pint (caña) plastic glasses ranging from 2.50 to 4 euros. The Surf Beer rode my tonsils smoothly as I mentally booked a few later drinks from the Tacoa menu card that proudly proclaimed 0% Bullshit, 100% Craft Beer.

Next call was the Aguita Brewery from Santa Cruz for a 5.1% Dead Bully, American Pale Ale that went down nicely as their brewer explained that they brew 500 litres a week for 1,500 bottles, he also told me there are at least 20 micro breweries spread across the seven Canary Islands. The Jeito Brewery from Los Realejos grabbed my attention next, a 6% Oatmeal Stout became a firm friend as I took it walkies to enjoy some of the fine views of the bay.

At this early stage there was at least some joined up planning to my beer choice. La Armada Brewery from La Laguna ticked several boxes, Armada Sur being my CD Tenerife football family, and my choice of a 5% Nelson Sauvin golden ale seemed very appropriate just a few days after the 121^st anniversary of Admiral Nelson´s failed attempt to take Santa Cruz and Tenerife. At this point I discovered one of the less well planned features of the festival, no toilets, there were some portaloos on the far side of the quay but picking my way through the dripping wet swimmers and sun bathers was already proving to be a challenge.

Back to the stalls and ready to refill my bladder, I picked on a 5.4% Irish Red from the Vagamundo Brewery in Las Palmas, Gran Canaria. Ignoring its unfortunate football origins, I was pleasantly surprised that the claims of aromas of malt, caramel, and light buttered toast were at least close to the mark, and it had no qualms about pleasing a CD Tenerife fans taste buds. A couple of my football friends, Gordon and Kirsty arrived and pushed the pace a little. A 5.9% Honey Palm Ale from La Palma was a smooth treat before I peaked with a Tacoa 6.2% Tajinaste Ale, technically the highest brewed in Spain as it contains floral honey from Mount Teide, at 3,718 metres, very nice indeed.

Things, and my notes, were getting a bit hazy by now. A 5.5 La Ginga from the Nomad Craft Brewery came and went rather quickly before I made a repeat visit to the Tacoa stand, firstly for the 6.5% Bock Beer, red for danger and for strength, and then another instalment of the Tajinaste Ale. That was basically my lot before wobbling back to the south. Thank you Alcala, and thanks for those micro brewery tour invites which are safely filed away and will be followed up.