Jose Angel Jurado cracked his 37th minute shot into the CD Lugo net after Samuel Shasoua had teased a pass through a mob of defenders. A quality move that typified the build up play of CD Tenerife as they dominated the first half. It was a debut strike for the well travelled new arrival from Alcorcon but the home side should have added further goals before Alberto tied the game after 65 minutes.
Other summer signings were making their mark on the game, Mo Dauda from Ghana via Anderlecht followed up his rocket goal in the 2-1 opening day defeat at Eibar, with more glorious skills. Starting on the right, Mo switched to the left flank and mixed pacey runs with hard graft to track back to help the defence. Lugo goalie Oscar did well to prevent Tenerife from pulling clear but the ref had the biggest influence with a bizarre red card for Alex Corredera after 59 minutes. Even though it was a Lugo player crashing into the static Alex, the ref sent the bewildered home midfielder off.
Alberto cashed in with a free kick leveller six minutes later. Tenerife tried to up the tempo and replaced Shashoua with Waldo, a seventh new arrival hot off the plane. It was back to even numbers when Alberto made a crude lunge to take the legs from under Mo. The perpetrator left the field with a red card while Mo limped off with support from the physios. A quick shuffle saw 20 year old local B team player Teto filling the void. Small in stature but full of running, and hammering on the first team door, Teto couldn´t repeat his pre season friendly goal against Ibiza.
The ref had to add six minutes for his interventions as Lugo held on to the draw. The new players are all impressing, once they have gelled together this should be another promotion chasing season – a 11,491 first home crowd of the season showed the raised expectancy after last terms near miss. Fans will be relieved once the transfer window has closed on 2 September, hopefully with no key players being lured away.
Unfurled towels and delicious smells ensured a busy Los Guios beach in Los Gigantes. Just a few months after my last call, a subtle dispersal of large rocks freed up more room to sun worship, and a bigger tapas terrace for the Rincon del Puerto below the cliff views.
August was in full swing, boosted by the big holiday break all over Spain, and locally the celebrations of the Virgen del Candelaria, the patrona and inspiration of the Canary Islands. Walking back through Los Gigantes and up above Crab Island natural pool, I was able to enjoy the full raised coastal walkway as it wrapped around Puerto de Santiago. The sturdy path offered changing views of rock fingers reaching out into the waves, and many seating areas to take a moment to admire the craggy landscape.
Carrying on to Puerto de Santiago´s pocket beach and fishermans moorings, there was a muscle tester walk up to street level but the views got more impressive as the thirst grew. Playa de La Arena beckoned next but I bus hopped onward to Alcala. I was less than complimentary when the modern church arrived a few years ago, but the fiestas had added explosions of colour to break up the start edges. Down below, Plaza del Llano was gearing up for more live music nights, just a few days after its sea launched midnight firework display. New flowers on the wooden cross reminded the sea bathers about the importance of this time of year.
The west coast sea was lively but not as harsh as it sometimes can be, it can change in the blink of an eye. Safety is always an important consideration, the One Up Totem stood guard, each pack inflates as it hits the sea, and they can be reused. Playa San Juan, Callao Salvaje, and Playa Paraiso could have extended my wander but I will delve into their latest attractions on my next wander up west.
Like the flip side of a valuable coin, I was looking out to the twin brother cliffs of Anaga and the distant rock spits of Almaciga – but this time from the La Laguna coast. Just 45 minutes on the 050 Titsa bus down through thriving towns like Tejina, and Tegueste, delivered me to the welcoming statues and a rough road to the Camino Punta del Hidalgo.
The rugged north coast of Tenerife has long drawn visitors up and over Santa Cruz and Las Teresitas beach. Here though the old crumbling houses and an abandoned car gave way to a gallery of murals but they couldn´t detract from the outstanding beauty on offer. The immaculate and colourful Hermita de San Juanito was further proof that I was on the right course. Rock pools made a cool enticing mosaics as they stretched out to where the sea lapped gently.
Many people immersed themselves in the series of shallow pools as others scanned the landscape for sea birds. Migrating species pass this way and add to the natural mix of local sea life and plants. This was the first time I had seen bird watching shelters at key points along a coastal walk in Tenerife. They contained pictures and details of the most common species that might grace this area, and thin viewing slots meant the birds wouldn´t get twitchy at their starring role. It all looked fairly new, even the bins were clad in wood and looked like they were regularly emptied. A pride and respect for nature is shared by local inhabitants who have a close dependency with nature.
A private sea water swimming complex was only in partial use, but there was a public access large rock pool further along on the walk. The sea was sedate on my visit but it can turn quickly off the north coast. A white guardian stood guard on an exposed turn to beam out a warning to passing shipping. The lighthouse was built in 1994 and can be seen up to 15 nautical miles away. This late comer has never had any keepers, all the lighthouses around Tenerife are automated these days. Technology also showed its hand in the form of a water cleansing station just off the main trail.
It´s not a long walk, 2.3 kms one way, around 45 minutes, but it is easily accessable and very interesting. Further along, housing faces onto the route and the Altagay apartment complex offers a cafe. The 050 bus stops just up from the beach at this point, just opposite an eye catching fish sculpture made from discarded waste by Diedel Klover.I retraced my steps back to the start to get another eye full of the cliffs. The birds were a little shy on this trip, winter months will bring more migrating friends. It was a lovely uplifting walk and a nice insight into life on the exposed north coast.
Drop kicking a goal between the two towers of the Centro Termica power station must have run through greater minds than mine. Chugging up the TF1 motorway from the south of Tenerife towards the capital, Santa Cruz, brings a few scowls of disapproval on the Titsa bus.
Time is catching up with the 1967 built gas and diesel power turbines and plans are in place to remove one of the 76.5 metre chimneys that overshadow a thriving small community below. For me it has become a good starting point for an extended coastal stroll to Candelaria. Long delayed improvement works are now cranking into life. A large solarium was being extended and bordered with sturdy fortifications against the often lively sea. A small cafe bar and two life guards showed that the spot is used by locals, just above a small plaza full of charm, also awaited a makeover.
The four star Hotel Catalona Punta del Rey was busier than on my last walk by, a Rod Stewart disco soundtrack extolled the virtues of being sexy to a pool side exercise group. The main 1.8 million euro spend for Las Caletillas was approved in 2021, their main task will be to wipe out the eyesore debris of the old 3 star Tenerife Tour Hotel at the north end of the Playas Punta Larga beaches. The promenade board walks and lagoon style beach zones were partially protected from the wind, and a large stage awaited three free nightly rock concerts.
The heat scorched down as I reached the old marinas just ahead of the historic centre of Candelaria.The Ayuntamiento (council) building, impressed as always with its seven identical sculptures (representing the Canary Islands) along the high wall. Even the garage entrance had its own themed reference to local culture. As the busy shopping street opened out onto the Plaza de la Patrona, a three day Artesans Fair almost eclipsed the imposing frontage of the basilica church. Huge concrete blocks weighted down the giant marquee to keep the wind off the 49 stall holders showing off their traditional arts and crafts skills.
Meanwhile the waves were breaching the sea wall and soaking the statues of the Guanche tribal kings. Some visitors were blissfully unaware that three of the statues had to be re anchored last year after the pounding sea undermined them. Dancing in the sea spray for photos looked fun but part of me cringed as they laughed.
Candelaria lures the explorers in with coastal and hill walks in the more usual calmer weather days. They don´t leave the cyclists deflated or spinning their wheels. Bicibox repair points standing in Plaza Teror were like a Swiss army knife for peddlers, their range of free use attachments would put Halfords to shame. The Virgen of Candelaria reigns across the seven islands, the big day of homage is 15 August for 2022. The packed plaza will be further bulged by a 1,000 runners in a 7 am sprint down from La Granja in the hills, down through Las Caletillas to the heart of the celebrations. This part of the east coast is amazing at any time, drive, bus, walk, or cycle – just add it to your exploring itinery.
Dashing across rain lashed runways, scurrying through underground service tunnels, and shot at in deserted lounges. Kevin Tyler´s life is under threat from all angles at a remote German airport in the new thriller Airside by James Swallow.
Call it a judgement on his years of under achievement, or punishment for grabbing a haul of hidden hot millions. Despite that, Airside readers will still want to root for this little nobody. James Swallow, an accomplished author and screen writer, combines the raw fear and rsourcefulness of Kevin as he tries to outwit thugs, murderers and torturers who want their mislaid money back. There´s noone to trust and even Kevin sneers at his own lousy life choices to date. As the airport slumbers, Kevin must wake up his desire to live and make his daughter proud of him.
Swallow keeps the pace frantic as he contines to raise and dash Kevin´s hopes. as a familiar travel setting threatens to become a final touchdown. I was left with nothing to declare except my admiration for this inventive and taut thriller.
Airside by James Swallow is a 2022 release from welbeckpublishing.com
As you tuck into your Sunday dinners, 26 athletes representing Great Britain will have christened the European Off Road Running Championships at El Paso on the Canarian island of La Palma. Passing through Los Cristianos, Tenerife for their ferry, the athletes and 7 coaching staff looked confident and relaxed for the three day newly combined event for mountain running and trail racing.
Bejenao mountain dominates La Palma with a 800 metre high peak at an altitude of 1600 metres. It´s the focal point for 10 events to be decided over both disciplines with races uphill only, up and down, or the winding trails. Even before the main competition starts on Friday, there is a mass night race of 6.5 k just to get the legs moving. The weekend is a chance for La Palma to reestablish its credentials as a major venue for athletes who want to challenge nature. In 2020 La Palma hosted the Spanish Mountain Running Championships as the shadow of Covid and the fiirst rumbles of a volcanic eruption loomed large,
Great Britain team manager Mark Croasdale viewed now as the perfect time for his squad to push on with their training programme, many had recently taken part in the Three Peaks Challenge in the UK. “We have a lot of young runners who have recently finished university and exams, this will give them a competitive challenge in a European competition. We flew over from Manchester with no delays or problems (despite much publiced weeks of airport turmoil) landed in Tenerife and now have the short ferry crossing to La Palma. It´s a good squad with strength in depth at all levels.”
Sport has been one constant in the difficult last three years for the Canary Islands but large groups of international swimmers, athletes, beach volleyball players and fun runners have still been heading in to enjoy the weather and facilities. There´s always a big welcome for visitors looking to test themselves against nature.
Three goals created by home defnders sounds like a winning recipe. Sadly, two ended up in CD Tenerife´s home net and handed promotion to Girona FC for a frustrating 1-3 defeat and the end to a thrilling centenary season for the Santa Cruz club.
A well defended 0-0 away leg in Girona had tilted the play off final in favour of the blue and whites, and pre match tickets had been selling on the black market for 500 euros and upwards, others perched on roof tops. Just a few returned away tickets short of the 23,000 ground capacity came hoping for a coronation. It was 13 years since Tenerife last won admittance to the top flight – and that came in a league game at Girona.
Soriano made a powerful punch clearance from Girona´s Juanpe after 18 minutes, the goalie has had an outstanding season between the home sticks. Stuani had been clamped in the away leg but after 41 minutes the secons divisions top scorer was gifted a penalty when home defender Sergio Gonzalez handled the ball. The Uruguay forward stepped up and increased his tally to 24 goals. One of the most consistent of the Tenerife back four, Sergio was replaced by coach Ramis after the break by Carlos Ruiz. The 39 year old centre back was probably running our for his last game but crowned it with a well headed goal at the post from an inswinging cross by Shaq Moore.
It should have been a signal for a home surge but barely 10 minutes later, Jose Leon was caught in two minds as a fierce strike headed for him. Trying to chest the ball down he deflected it wide of the stranded Soriano. Home goals were a must now, Bermejo and Mario were having quiet games and were replaced by Elady and Brit Sam Shasoua but it didn´t bring an instant solution with time on the Catalan visitors side. Part of the Manchester City group, Girona have a few euros to flash but their killer blow came from a 19 year old youth product, Arnau, who had space and time to trap a 79th minute incoming ball and fire it past Soriano for a 1-3 lead that stuck firm.
It was a heart breaking end to the season. The World Cup means only a few weeks rest before the new season kicks off. Several players have reached the end of their contracts, others will have impressed envious eyes, so there is a lot of work for the management to do. The season has been a huge leap forward, fine tuning is the key rather than the usual wholesale changes but the biggest head scratcher is how to make the patchy home form as good as the points gathered on away travels.
Andy Warhol may well have given a laid back thumbs up to El Tanque art and music exhibition space in Tenerife capital Santa Cruz. The America icon of the 70´s. A tram ride up to La Laguna and a 50 year retrospective of pop art linked two shows of artistic expression, both free to view, and right on my wavelength.
You can bank on Caja Canarias Fundacion to put on some interesting displays at their cultural space near Plaza del Adelantado in the university town. This Is Pop spotlights 50 years of pop art and music, featuring 60 works that changed peoples perceptions and made art more relevant to the masses.
Damien Hurst, Banksy, and even The Beatles tapped into this well of free expression, all the works are presented in spanish but GR codes open a choice of English commentary. Paintings, videos, and music all benefitted from the pop revolution. UK and America led the way but Spain also picked up on the new media, this is shown via youth magazines that explored day to day themes in cartoon form. Two floors are dedicated to the exhibition. To unlock these key times in modern culture, the free exhibition runs to 30 June from 10 am to 1.30 pm and 5.30 pm to 8 pm weekdays, 10.30 am to 1.30 pm Saturdays, and closed Sundays.
Back down in Santa Cruz, it was a n appropriate time for me to renew my acquaintance with El Tanque, the former fuel storage tank that was first conveted to a venue in 1997. By chance, the nearby huge Cepsa refinery was just begining a long decomission and clean up process. A much smaller operation had just updated El Tanque using banana plants to soften the visual impact of the tank, and a new cafe will be added soon.
The current exhibition was called Uncertainty, by four local young architects. The high roof, subdued lighting, and display of proposals and ideas about how we can live together made an interesting comparison of how we make choices. The first time I called in many years ago, a large suspended J Arthur Rank type gong featured in a spotlight with a large fluffy cod ball drunstick to whack it with – that was suitable weird and satisfying for my tastes.
The acoustics get a fuller workout each year with the annual Keroxen music festival as a selection of bands send their musical offerings on a wall of death ride around the skin of El Tanque. Opening hours for this unusual and innovative venue are 5 pm to 8 pm weekdays and 11 am to 2 pm on Saturdays.
Last line, rear guard, or solid stoppers. All negative terms for defenders, but to CD Tenerife coach Luis Migel Ramis they can be so much more. Centre back Jose Leon cast a giant shadow in the 1-0 home Canarian derby against Las Palmas that started the promotion play offs last four. Leons hooked clearance off the goal line robbed a Las Palmas striker of an easy tap in as the first half unfolded. USA international right back Shaq Moore made his own devine intervention from just under the crossbar.
A few days earlier, the regular league season had ended with a shock 1-2 home defeat to Cartagena. Newly capped Montenegro central defender Nikola Sipcic stood out and scored the consolation goal. That loss and a Las Palmas win saw the Gran Canaria side jump above Tenerife in the final league table. There´s no extra time or penalties in the play offs, aggregate score play off ties are decided by those final league placings. That left Tenerife with an extra incline favouring their neighbours, so a first leg semi advantage was vital.
Jose Leon wasn´t just in top defensive form, he showed clinical finishing after 36 minutes. Mario Gonzalez struck the ball at goalie Alvaro, it rebounded out and Leon drilled his shot with purpose from the edge of the box to bulge the net. The huge sound output of the 19,732 home crowd was instantly cranked up another notch as the yellow wedge of 700 Las Palmas fans squirmed in silence.
The second half was tense, CD Tenerife were pinned down for a while before driving forward with renewed purpose. Andres Martin was floored in the penalty area by keeper Alvaro but the ref showed no interest in the penalty call. Ramis made four changes to try to craft a second goal. The best chance came from an Elady strike that tested the goalie. The crowd urged Tenerife on amidst a swirling mass of scarfs and banners to the final whistle. The outpouring of emotion from the home crowd continued as the players came to the edge of the pitch to salute them as the pride and passion flowed back in waves.
Just a slender lead left the climax of the season hanging by a thread for the away leg. Defensive strength is the hallmark of coach Ramis. That and the travelling 700 plus from Santa Cruz will hopefully push them through to the two legged final against Eibar or Girona.
Stocky, compact but packing a punch, the Spanish patrol ship P42 Rayo chose International Armed Forces Day to make the short crossing from its Las Palmas, Gran Canaria base. Loaded with practical hardware, the 94 metre long multi purpose ship may have a crew of just 46 but has carried out protection and escort duties in the Atlantic and off flashpoints like Somalia.
It was all welcomes and smiles in Santa Cruz as the captain welcomed the curious up the gangplank to look around. A well stowed helicopter had its own landing pad that minimised down draft and dispersed surplus water. The big Malara gun and the two smaller machine guns added to the firepower if needed. As we toured inside the belly of the beast, there were many small homely touches like the small shrine to the Virgen and a kitchen that stoked the inner fires.
The ship was built in San Fernando in May 2010, the fifth vessel to bear the name. The first Rayo P42 saw action at the Battle of Trafalgar in 1805, when Horacio Nelson sustained fatal injuries. That was less than 10 years after the famous British admiral had lost his arm in a failed attempt to take Tenerife.
It´s not just full on action these days, the captain reminded us the ships importance in a peace keeping or environmental monitoring missions. They were certainly making friends on the visit, especially among the awe struck younger temporary recruits. There was even a table of merchandise with replica caps and t shirts, but sadly no flowing wine.