Culture vultures can find plenty to feast on in Tenerife, there is a rich tradition of theatres, but sadly many habe been allowed to slip into disrepair. This was the case with Teatro Leal in La Laguna, built in 1915 to the design of Antonio Pintor, the curtain came down 18 years ago and no one has trod the boards since. Thankfully a restoration programme led by local architect, Ladislao Diaz Marquez, has brought it back to its former glory, and with the lure of free tours from 5 to 8 pm this week, I headed up to La Laguna to have a look at the 620 seat theatre.

Arriving in Calle Obispo Rey Redondo at 4pm, I found about a dozen people waiting outside, and no notices about the tour, groups of 15 were being allowed in according to the local newspaper coverage, so with an hour to kill, I adjouned to a nice pizzeria just down the street. Popping back with 10 minutes to opening, the scene had changed, there was now about 100 people waiting in an orderley queue, but as the bells of the nearby Torre de la Concepcion struck 5, an official appeared and handed out a few small tickets to the front of the queue and said that was it for today, it seems a leader of a small tour party had already snaffled up most of them, leaving many of us locked out. Amid nuch waving of arms and loud complaints, the crowd converged on the entrance but the stony faced security man was adamant, culture for the masses? not today my son.

Leaving the angry mob to do what angry mobs do best, I made an exit stage left, hopefully I will get back for a performance some time. The first show is on September 18 at 9pm, when the Tenerife Symphony Orchestra will perform works of Mozart and Beethoven, with guest performers, pianist Guillermo Gonzalez and soprano Maria Oran. The big night will be in October, date to be announced, when Prince Felipe and Princess Letizia of Spain attend a gala launch.

With theatre still in my thoughts, I caught the tram down to Santa Cruz and the Teatro Guimera. Unlike the grand frontage of Teatro Leal, this older venue, built in 1848, has quite a plain outside, but your attention is drawn to it by a large sculture of a theatrical mask. Called, Por Adriano, it was made by Igor Mitchaj in 1993 and adds a nice focal point to the building. Sadly there is a little graffiti on the nose, obviously not deterred by the Spanish law that protects sites of historic heritage, and carries a prison sentence of between 6 months and 6 years.

The theatre was as I expected closed, but as you can see from this photo I took through the keyhole (someone might believe that) it is rather grand. Antonio Pintor designed the inside here as well and it is fairly typical of Canarian theatres, a horseshoe shaped seating area on 4 levels facing the stage. Looking at the forthcoming productions, I had picked out one of interest to Brits over here. On Octoner 3 and 4 the New London Consort conducted by Philip Pickett will be performing a baroque opera by Henry Purcell called Dido & Aeanas. Tickets range from 45 euros to 20, the box office opens 10am to 1pm and 6pm to 8pm each weekday or you can buy online at www.generaltickets.com.

I shall definately be keeping a close eye on forthcoming productions at the 2 theatres and look forward to enjoying some uplifting performances as i enjoy my choc ice and kiora.

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