Less reliance on the big hotel chains, and more rural tourism is a popular call in Tenerife, but maybe some people think it means giving up their creature comforts. That seemed a laughable idea on my latest trek down from Ifonche, just below Vilaflor. Within a few strides along the path from the Titsa bus stop, I had spotted four restaurants, including a new offering, Finca Tres Roques, a short stroll from the track.
Hermano Pedro´s name was proudly linked to one of the eateries, as the Canary Islands only saint grew up in this area. A small chapel and fountain further ahead, underlined the links with the goat herder who took his healing mission to Guatamala in later life. Working fincas (farms) and a constant trickle of walkers weaved towards the three peaks of th volcanic mountains that dominate the region.
The landscape is mainly gentle on the feet but a large barranco just beyond the chapel called for nimble foot work to dip down and then seek decent foot holds on the upward bank of the ravine. A large private dwelling inland from my goat like scrambling showed how some properties have had modern make overs for the best of all worlds. This has always been a favourite walk of mine so I knew that the key was to aim up and past a neglected old house on the lip of the barranco.
As so often on these walks, a great effort was rewarded by the views as I sat on the edge of a threshing circle that panned across the three dominant peaks. A good place for a breather, water, and a feast for the eyes. Then the hardest part of the walk beckoned, skirting down and around a twisting path that opened up rewarding views of Roque del Conde, the peak that looks down on Los Cristianos, Arona, and Adeje.
Nearer to the lower slopes of Conde, the terracing of the fields showed how locals eeked out a living growning crops in this exposed area. At times the path offers choices, the mantra to remember is to progress with Conde to your right and move downwards away from the sea view. The finish point of Arona town began to loom up ahead but a tight, deep barranco called for more agile steps as I descended into the cool floor of the ravine. It was fairly quiet but birds were carrying on their day with little regard for this noisy interlooper. On past trips I have sen goats being herded up narrow paths and barbary partridge chicks getting parental guidance.
The walk took nearly four hours with plenty of rests and the final leg led past a small village and into the town of Arona with a couple of cafes and a bus link back down to Los Cristianos. Even on repeat visits, I always find new pleasures and refresh my thirst for the rural wonders of Tenerife.