Speak as you find, well I try to, but first you have to find, so after an extra early swim, I headed westward, with Guia de Isora, the village, as my first stop. Barely an hour on the 417 Titsa bus from Los Cristianos, and there I was up in the hills, at a village that hadn’t seen my knobbly knees in at least 5 years.

My prime target was the town hall, but following the main road along I didn’t recognise any tell tale landmarks. Â The view out to the sea in the distance and Playa San Juan just before it was impressive, but it took a coffee stop at a small bar to nudge me up one street level to the main church square, part shrouded in shade, and into the town hall.

I had hoped to view the plans for the proposed new port at Fonsalia, but even after being redirected to the technical office, I was told they were not on public display and the architect had popped out for 10 minutes (that’s Canarian for a couple of hours) so with not much time to spare, I headed back to the main road. The port has been suggested for about 10 years, and will probably drag on for at least as long again.

It’s clear the Socialist (PSOE party) council of Guia de Isora has splashed a bit of money, there is a new auditorium and cultural centre, although both were closed, and the footings of a new youth centre, but some of the narrow and patchwork pavements suggest more work ahead to bring it up to scratch. The bus station is new, and the 493 bus arrived spot on time for the 20 minute drop to the coast.

The tight winding road down through Tijina and Piedra Hincada passed fields of heavily loaded tomato plants and cacti in full bloom, thriving despite the less than half full resevoirs. Safely dropped in Playa San Juan, I headed for the new look beach, just nearing completion on my last trip (Posted March 20Â ) 6 weeks ago. Formerley covered in large stones, they were ground down to give a dark shingle type surface, which has caused an outcry from opponents who wanted a yellow sand beach. Also many sources have said that the covering has already been washed away by the tide, in fact, it is only a band along the shore line, and a similar thing happened on Las Galletas beach.Â

The promenade has been opened since my last visit and the striped changing huts are in use, all giving a vastly improved appearance. Beaches are a very contentious issue in Tenerife, black volcanic sand is the norm but there is always a clamour for smooth yellow sand and no rocks. In Los Cristianos they have just started work on cleaning the old beach, with suggestions that they will move tons of sand onto the wild and natural Los Tarajales beach. That seems unlikely with many bigger issues still not resolved (Posted March 24) Â on the wilder beach, such as drainage outlets and old shacks that go against the strict new outlook on the coastal law.

The wider area of Guia de Isora is undergoing big changes as tourism takes on a bigger role, and there is a delicate balance to be maintained. One thing is for sure, they wont be able to keep everyone happy.

Laying on the shingle beach at Las Galletas the other day when I heard a familiar sound that reminded me of something I wanted to mention on here. Have you ever heard a distinctive high pitched whistle here in Tenerife? It’s a long shrill sound that tapers off with a flourish and repeats several times, usually in the morning.

It’s not some rare breed of metal bird, just the sound of an old tradition that lives on. It’s a knife sharpening service sold by old men who travel round, usually on a pushbike but some now use a motorcycle,  sounding their whistle to attract custom. When they park up they either use the motor or the pedals to power a grinding machine fixed to the back of the bike.

They are often heard but seldom seen, I spotted this chap in the photo, in Puerto de la Cruz, there is also one operating near me in Los Cristianos. When I worked out of The Tenerife Sun office in Alcala, there was a sharpener there, how quaint I thought, this man of simple means, keping this old tradition alive in a cynical commercial world. Thinking it would make a nice little story, I asked him if I could take a photo for the paper and ask him a few questions, he said yes but it would cost 30 euros, obviously not quite as innocent in the ways of the world as I thought. I declined his offer and passed his number on to Hello magazine, they like to pay for exclusives.

Still, it is good to see these old crafts surviving, I should imagine a lot of small restaurants and bars find the service very useful, and a lot easier than a trip to the nearest ferreteria.

I had several options for this weeks trip out but decided that the Pyramids of Guimar was well overdue for a visit so got the 111 Santa Cruz bus up to the stop just past the tunnel on the motorway. The walk down and under the road was a bit hairy with no path to speak of but after checking with a local as to how far the pyramids were, I waited for a 120 bus to Guimar town, and was glad I did, it would have been a long uphill walk.

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I was surprised to find how big Guimar is, it has it’s own very smart bus station with a cafe/bar complete with it’s own little terrace. The town itself is wonderful, bright, clean and very obviously cared for, the main plaza spreads out around a fountain and park rather than a church, and the whole place has been given modern touches, without ruining the character. The contrast between old and new struck me on the bus. An old wizzened Canarian lady sat opposite wrapped in layers of traditional clothes, looking like she had stepped out from a history book. There was a sudden loud burst of “Hips Dont Lie” by Shakira, and she pulled out a state of the art mobile and flipped it into action – next revelation – did the Guanches have Blackberries?

After a good prowl round I headed up to the Pyramids and paid my residents rate of 7.15 euros to get in, full price is 10 euros. The park was set up by Thor Heyerdahl, the Norweigain explorer and scientist, who made epic sailing voyages on the balsa raft Kon Tiki and later on reed boats like Ra, all to prove that ancient civilisations were able to travel between continents, a possible explanation for the similarity of pyamids in South America, Africa and here in Tenerife. Ra 2, is the only full size boat on display, the others are in a Oslo museum.

The pyramids here are much smaller and have a large plaza between them, and are certainly interesting, there’s a museum and an auditorium where a short film in a choice of languages fills in the history. But I was not that impressed, it all seems too commercial with large concrete walkways, and three large white plastic tents where models of Thor’s boats are displayed, are very intrusive on the skyline. There is a childrens playground just near the foot of one pyramid, and a souvenir shop and cafe. What really bugged me was the speakers around the main walks, that churn out gentle music mixed with bird song and trickling water. It’s like a heavy handed nudge to remind you that you are in the middle of nature, and with the backdrop of the Guimar valley, a Canarian garden full of colourful plants and flowers and birds soaring overhead, visitors will have worked that one out for themselves. There are some smaller pyramids unmolested in a field on the track between Playa San Marcos and Icod de Los Vinos, and the relative silence of nature adds to their eerie mystery.

Back down into town after 2 hours in the park, and thats about as long as you need, I had a nice fish meal at La Piramides bar to the right of the bus station. There was an interesting notice pinned behind the bar, someone was selling 2 caves on the coast at Punta Prieta, complete with legal papers for just 3,000 euros, I was tempted. Guimar looks a great place to live, just 20 minutes from Santa Cruz, 40 minutes from the southern resorts and plenty of shops, bars and restaurants.

Guimar spreads right down to the coast, so I got a bus down to El Puertito de Guimar. On the 10 minute trip I noticed a rural hotel just outside town, Hotel Salamanca, and a walk called Camino de Los Llanos, both worth looking at if you are into exploring. El Puertito is typical of many of the newer developments up that eastern coast, with lots of 4 or 5 storey blocks and all leading down to a central plaza at the seafront. El Puertitio has a nice mix of small rough sand and shingle coves and a longer break water, all popular points to swim off. It does get a bit windy on this coast and the waves can get a bit lively but the views of the Guimar valley from the seafront cafe/bars are always a joy. There is a third side to Guimar, the large industrial easte just along from El Puertito, this is where the big printers produces many of the newspapers for sale in Tenerife from Marca to The Mirror. I finished with a quick bus trip into Santa Cruz and a progress check on the Plaza de Espa̱a, the government are still upbeat about an April 30 opening, but there is a lot still to do. Guimar town was one of the nicer surprises of the day and definately one to return to Рif only to buy those caves.

The last bullfight took place in Santa Cruz on December 18th 1983, but since then the only raging going on has been in the ongoing row between developers of the site and those who want to preserve the historic building.

Plaza de Torros is just to the east of the La Paz tram stop, and where two other famous warriers lock horns, though only in terms of street names. The main road is Rambla del General Franco, and Calle Horacio Nelson joins it from around the back of the bullring where the Disco Triboo is still open for business. That’s also the status for the El Buradero bar/restaurant at the front, there was a flurry of press activity recently suggesting that the business’s had been given a mid March deadline to get out, for demolition work to finally begin. Kike, husband of the El Buradero owner, laughed when I reminded him of this, his wife Teresa had only bought the place last May and it is flourishing.

Alicur property company owns 80 % of the bullring and it was claimed they had plans to replace it with four new blocks, one commercial and the others housing, but the latest suggestion is that they are looking for ideas from a panel of experts in commerce and development.

Outside, the small leafy terrace of El Burladero, hardly prepares you for the cosy and intimate restaurant inside that wraps around the inner curve of the building, and is adorned with posters from old fights that took place just a few yards away.

My interest must have impressed Kike (or he thought I looked like a losing matador, gored, chewed and spat out) he got the keys and took me through to the bullring itself. I was expecting a cascade of cockroaches to fall through the door and to have to wade knee deep in rubbish, but it was in surprisingly good nick, even the chandeliers were hanging in the entrance way, and the tunnels where the bulls charged out were clear.

It must have been an imposing sight full up but bullfights stopped in 1983 when they were banned in all the Canary Islands, and since then the auditorium has staged many events like Canarian wrestling, boxing and Carnaval pageants, even soul legend James Brown got down there, feeling good, well he knew that he would, but it has been allowed to fall into disrepair as the arguments roll on.

Kike remembers the heady Saturday nights of regular bullfights with 8,000 packed crowds and sighed as he surveyed the forlorn scene now. The stage is still visible and the raised central pavilion stands proud, although you wouldn’t want to climb it. Whatever you think of bullfighting, it was a big part of Santa Cruz culture and it would be nice to see this iconic building restored and put to good use.

There are just memories left behind, no ghosts, but when you slice into one of El Buraderos juicy steaks, you could be forgiven for hearing the stamping of hoofs and the snort of fiery nostrils.

Waking up with itchy feet, I knew it was either time for my annual bath or time to go wandering again, and with my rubber duck nowhere to be found, I hit the road up to the north and Los Realejos Alto (high) and Bajo (low).

Catching the early bus to Puerto de la Cruz gave me the chance to see how long it would take to cross from Guimar, on the east coast to La Orotava, just outside Puerto. The reason being the announcement of plans to build a tunnel between the two at a cost of 346 million euro to slash the 16.5 km journey to 5 mins, bringing north and south closer together. The bus took 40 mins out of the total 1 hour 20 mins to Puerto, can’t help wondering if they really need to bore through the mountain just to save that small difference. Still it’s only at the discussion stage and would take around 9 years to build, so don’t hold your breath.

Back in the real world, a quick connecting bus and I got off in Los Realejos Alto, up in the clouds and with the bus struggling to squeeze up the narrow streets. Walking up the main street, the Museum and Cultural Centre impressed with it’s classic Canarian hanging balconies, made from tia, the wood at the centre of the pine tree. At the top, the church of Santiago del Apostle greeted me, set in it’s shady plaza as the sun emerged.

A little further up, the Ayuntamiento building looks side out to the Barranco San Agustin, a deep ravine with it’s own iconic Drago tree perched on the lip. All seemed still and quiet on this weekday morning, as I sipped my coffee and studied my map for the march down into Los Realejos Bajo.

Heading down the steep hill, the traffic became busier and it was clear that this part of town was much more modern, it looked like it had been compressed down into a dip and the buildings were pressed a little too close together. The Sanctuary of the Virgin del Carmen was a good stop off point, a bigger church rebuilt in 1952 after a fire. I wasn’t as impressed by Bajo which seemed to lack character, a nice sunken leafy garden plaza looked overgrown and neglected as the traffic brushed by, I think I prefer to have my head in the clouds.

A quick change via Puerto de la Cruz, and I was off to Santa Cruz to visit some familiar places and to explore a bit more. Los Realejos is a bit of a sprawl and maybe you need to be fascinated by churches to really appreciate it, but it was another destination I was pleased to have added to my list.

It only seems like the other week that I popped over to Las Galletas to see the progress of the new marina (scroll down 9 stories) but paying a return trip yesterday, I found it open to the public, so do join me for a viewing.

King Neptune stands proud, trident in hand, high on his plinth, at the Marina del Sur, the new addition to the Las Galletas shoreline. It’s a pride that will soon be shared with the local fishing trade and visiting tourists to this thriving Arona village.

The outstretched embrace of the marina, seperates the sand and pebble beach from the promenade of cafes and bars, and although it still needs some fixtures and formalities before it is in full use, there is plenty to impress. Already the four pontoons are fully moored up with boats and pleasure craft, and the farther of the two large pavillions, has an occupied maritime office looking out to sea.

The old police station on the shore has been demolished but a new Policia Local office is just along the new boardwalk. Don’t worry that all tradition has been swept away, the rusty old iron canon, guarding the shore, has just been shuffled a few yards nearer to the beach.

Las Galletas is very much a working village, but modern commercial pressures have made it hard in recent years, for fishermen whose families have harvested the sea for generations. It’s time they had a helping hand, and the marina will see to that. The old wooden stalls on the shore are cramped and in disrepair, but have had to do for selling points for their catch of each day. Now there is a bright modern Pescadors Centre on the marina, where the fishermen can wash, gut and sell their fish.

It’s good news as well for tourism, a growing source of income for Las Galletas. The marina is not just functional, it’s stylish and attractive, from it’s blue and white colour scheme, right through to the small touches like old Neptune keeping guard, and anchor designs in the metalwork of the railings.

The first pavillion, at shore side, has commercial units ready for occupation and an open roof terrace that will make a great cafe to view the area from. There are two toilet blocks along the boardwalk, with disabled facillities, and while the lamp standards will make it an inviting evening walk, inset ground lights will clearly mark the edges and stop feet from straying too far. Add in some marble benches at sutable intervals, and large flower urns, and it’s clear that this will be a welcome addition to Las Galletas.

Overlooked and under funded, that’s how Puerto de la Cruz is feeling these days, tourism seems to be passing it by, even Loro Parque visitors tend to be coached in and out without seeing the city. That’s a great shame as Puerto de la Cruz has loads to offer.

Even the direct Titsa buses from the south and west tourist centres stop at La Paz, a great place to start a visit, so i did. The mirador gives terrific views over the city and down onto Playa Martianez and the Costa Martianez swimming complex just beyond. The small plaza at the mirador has the new bust of Agatha Christie to commemorate her stay in the city that inspired one of her short stories. Walking down the narrow streets, lined with bars and shops, I soon came to the black sand beach with the Martianez cliffs towering to my side.

Facing the sea are a restaurant and a cafe/bar, these are the latest target of a crackdown by the Spanish coastal authority against illegal buildings. The 1988 Law of the Coast, states that buildings must be at least 106 metres from the shoreline. Many commercial buildings, like the Hotel Medano in Granadilla, were built long before the law but Costas have identified 600 buildings in Tenerife alone, that they want to demolish. In the long running El Medano saga, they now want to knock down the bars alongside the hotel, the cost of “expropriating” the land is put at 8.4 million euros. The Puerto beach buildings now have the wrecking ball hanging over them, but maybe the slow process of the law and legal protests will at least buy them some time.

Back to our tour, and a walk along the seafront past the large and recently renovated swimming complex, Costa Martianez. It’s an inviting area with bars and kiddies pools all at a constant 72 degrees, that’s 22.4 centigrade. Open from 10 am, it’s just 3.50 euros or 1.10 € for kids up to 10 years old, and there are residents and season discounts.

Feeling energetic I headed up hill again, this time for Parque Tauro. Taking the steep zig zag path past the palms and waterfalls, I soon arrived at Parque Sortija, a smaller park within the main network that includes the botanical gardens. Some may prefer to get a taxi up to the casino or Hotel Miramar and take in the park before enjoying the water cascades while walking downhill. Sortija had been abandoned and become overgrown but 500,000 euros of Cabildo money 2 years ago restored it to the delightful green and pleasant land it is now. Cyclists, walkers, joggers and many wild birds and insects have really taken to the park, there’s even a pond which makes a nice focal point. Today was a bit grey and overcast but I bet in the sunnier weather, there are more picnic hampers than even Yogi Bear could imagine.

A nice slow wander back and a few soft drinks and snacks around the charm filled old city, and I was back at the bus station. Now here is a job in need of doing, an upgrade of the station has been promised for years, it shudders as buses enter and smells of piss and diesel-even Jade Goodey wouldn’t want to promote that fragrance. So pay a visit some time, hold your nose, get out of the bus station and explore.

Having neglected La Laguna of late, I headed up to Santa Cruz on the Titsa bus and changing at the bus station, finally made my first trip on the fairly new tram system. Time to hold my hands up here and admit to being a bit of a critic of the expensive tram but I was very impressed. All journeys are a mere 85 cents but one of the little extras you get from a Bono bus ticket is free or reduced fares when you take 2 journeys in quick succession – so my little jaunt registered nil when I clipped my ticket in the reader just inside the tram.Â

Just a quick update on the tram, the first rail for the second line, was laid in a special ceremony a couple of days ago and the La Cuesta to Tincer run is expected to be open for early 2009 with 4 stops, 6 trams, a 10 minute trip over 3.6 kms. The government has also confidently predicted that 4 lines will criss cross Santa Cruz and it’s nearby suburbs by 2015.

Anyway, one very smooth ride later, it even goes past the Dorada bottling plant – how nice, I got off right outside the Museum of Science and the Cosmos in La Laguna.

You can’t miss the building due to it’s huge satellite dish on the roof. The Bono ticket again proved it’s worth as entry is 3 euros or 1.50€ if you pay with a Bono, children under 8 are free and just 1.50€ above that age, Sundays are free for everyone. It’s worth paying the extra one euro at the door for the Turismo Cosmico – the trip to Mars – I will let you discover that pleasure for yourself, very good and great for the little ones. There are always special exhibitions on at the museum and until March 31, you can discover about living in space and see space suits and a history of launches.

Back on the tram for the 2 stops to the terminus at La Trinidad, bang in the centre of La Laguna, a quick walk along the main back street and I was at the Plaza del Cristo, new home of the local traders market.This was built in record time at the end of last year after the ancient market further along, started to collapse and slide into the barranco. You can find all your home grown produce and crafts here every day from 8am till 2pm. In the same plaza is the new ice rink, don’t get too excited, it’s not real ice and not very big, but it is good fun for the kids.

All in all, La Laguna is in good form and with the handy tram link, it’s definately a place worth exploring for it’s historic buildings and traditional charm.

One of the great things about Tenerife is it’s diversity, there are so many rewarding places to visit. Las Galletas is just a few kms, or a short bus ride down the road from Los Cristianos, but could be another world. A small fishing village, unspoilt by commercialism, it’s cheap and cheery, has a small but sheltered beach and lovely shops and places to eat and drink.

A revamp is just taking place with a new marina built around the small quay where many boats park up. The Marina del Sur, the name is now proudly displayed, reaches out and runs parralell to the small beach, at each end is a classy looking blue and white pavillion with locales ready for bars and shops and upstairs, an open seating area with all round views.

The new marina starts on the site of the old police station, that was demolished, but the ancient iron canon that stood on guard has been moved a few yards along nearer the beach. The work on the development hasn’t been allowed to disrupt the local economy, fishermen have still been selling their daily catch each morning from the stalls at the top of the beach.

The promenade on the other side of the marina is looking busy as ever with tables outside bars and restaurants, looking out to the livelier part of the sea, where some surfing takes place. Further along, near Tenbel, the pedestrianised shopping area is still of joy to browse through and offers more good places to eat and drink. If you are getting the impression that I like this village, you are spot on, it’s always a nice place to visit and thankfully, once the inside work is finished on the marina, it should soon go from strength to strength.

So here I am back in Tenerife, a frantic last morning snapping a few more pics and pulling together more info about Lanzarote, and it was a slow trip to Gando airport via Arrecife. The bus station in Arrecife does some nice tapas, so that helped to send me on my way.

Once at the airport I had a little time to look around and although it’s a small 2 terminal airport, it has all you need, a bar/cafe, shop and a lounge. The check through with Islas Airways was fast, within 10 minutes of the gate opening, the plane was taking off. For the technical it was a Alenia ATR 42 that holds 72 passengers, it was less than half full both ways. No meal on such a short flight, 50 minutes but the stewardess did serve up a bag of peanuts each, glad it wasn’t a camp steward offering nuts.

Back in Tenerife North airport it was cloudy outside and I soon found out that the wind and the calima (dust blown in from Africa) had been bringing the temperature down while I was away. It was good to be back though and quick bus connections soon got me into Los Cristianos. Now it’s time to wade through the photos and do all the write ups, I have lots of fond memories of Lanzarote to reflect on.