Twelve beaches spread from Las Caletillas to Candelaria, the spirital heart of Tenerife. It´s a mixed bag of small shingle bays, modern excercise zones, and charming designer bathing areas. Candelaria has the history, the stunning basilica church, and the nine Mencey King statues depicting the leaders of the original guanche inhabitants of the island, The old power plant below the TF! motorway approach to Santa Cruz is prominent on the skyline and tends to prejudice peoples impression of Las Caletillas.

Less than five minutes down the motorway slip road, the four star Hotel Catalonia Punta del Rey shows a more inviting face. Just five more minutes walk and the modern pastel shade houses and pedestrian boardwalk are ready to offer surprises. Joggers and cyclists love it and the cleverley laid out  beach outcrops are broken into chunks of charm. Full marks for offering a little extra to beach lovers in the form of a converted mooring point that now serves as a sun lounge with a bridge link to it.

The commercial strip has 29 shops, bars, and cafes. The biggest of the bunch is the Cofradia de Las Caletillas, offering nets full of local fish dishes. A short cut inland will reveal the Commercial Centre Punta Larga, bustling with a spread of food and drink outlets. There was a light touch at work when the Las Caletillas promenade was designed. The sculptured tree and the artistic fish confrontation add to the mood. Once on the edge of the old town of Candelaria, the church rower will lure you across. Blink and you mat miss the two small marinas.

Playa de Candelaria is sometimes sealed off as big waves bark at the feet of the guanche statues in the plaza. Small side roads boast cheery food stops and if you want a souvenir, the main street to the basilica plaza will fix you up with the most wide ranging and at times bizarre items decorated with images of the virgen or her basilica home.

There´s something for everyone on this part of the high east coast. Tourist Information near the main Candelaria car park will load you up with guides to local walks along the coast and up into the surrounding hills. If you want busier and more mainstream nightlife or shopping, your only a 20 minute taxi or bus ride from the Tenerife capital city of Santa Ctuz. Your blessed on all fronts.

Perched on the lip of the valley, terraces tumble down to the rocky coast. With the hint of moisture in the air, the Casa del Vino (House Of Wine) in El Sauzal boasts a vintage and character to reflect Tenerife´s long  history of fine wines. The courtyard on the La Baranda estate, between La Laguna and Puerto de la Cruz is dominated by a huge wooden wine press and scattered barrels.

A tour through the rooms revealed the origins and diversity of wine on the island with each growing area hugely proud of their distinctive flavour. The shelves groaned with bottled bliss, and the shop and tasting room were ready to encourage carry outs of a superior kind, The large outdoor patio is a great place to observe the views and enjoy a restaurant meal with the appropriate liquid company.

Just beyond the wine gardens, a smaller museum, Casa de La Miel /(The House) Of Honey9 paid homage to the prolific output of nature. Just imagine honey with hints of avocado, chestnuts, or the iconic local tajinaste flower. The twin centre is well worth seeking out, my visit was during the coronavirus restriction hours of 10 am to 5 pm, normally it´s noon to 9 pm, but always closed on a Monday. Entry is a mere 3 euros or free for residents, and free parking attached.

Don´t hurry home to click glasses, plunge down to the coast and experience the serene nature of the town of El Sauzal. Town halls are seldom just functional in Tenerife, the multi layered facade of El Sauzal´s HQ is modern ans stylish – they even have their own Drago Tree. I had been looking forward to seeing the latest wood sculpture from Luigi Stinga, originally from Napoli but settled in La Laguna. The italians flair and imagination knows no bounds, his peacock was draped down the main steps, at home among the green curtain of surrounding plants.

A short walk up the coast offered a church that showed how basic black and white stone could also make a big impression on the eyes. Along the other direction a nice selection of bars and cafes awaited, lycra clad cyclists were glad of a breather after testing themselves on the big dipper roads. For me it was a good point from which to look out for the La Laguna bus. My glass was running over when I spotted another Stinga figure striding out with a basket on her head.

It had been a good few years since my last call at El Sauzal, it was noticeable that a lot of new development had taken place but it enhanced the overall bright and well looked after outlook of the place. The wine museum is best accessed from the motorway but if you approach from the town, a stout uphill walk will take around 20 minutes.

Being away from Tenerife can leave a big hole in your life. Just ask “El Emigrante Canario”  looking out to sea from Garachico. he was one of several welcome artistic intrusions on my latest day out. Los Cristianos to Adeje bus station was a mere blink before catching the 460 Titsa bus to Icod.

Banks of cloud came and went with the rise, and short lived falls from the increasing altitude as i passed through Guia de Isora, and Santiago del Teide. It was reassuring to see the Titsa mini bus waiting at Santiago to offer a transfer to Masca village, but sadly not to the barranco valley, still a long term safety closure. Icod welcomed me with its corkscrew road down the main town so i could make my obligatory nod to the Drago tree from the church plaza. I was distracted by the amusing sight of the gargoyles on the plant bowls, they seemed to be sniggering as they cut across the beauty of the church tower and the lilac trees.

The main shopping street of icod was ticking over nicely, its relaxed, informal feel boosted by the tight winding bricked street. Those seeking refreshment spilled over below the stairs of the town hall, and upstairs love was in the square. The Arbol Amor (Love Tree) by wood artist Luis Stinga was still posing proudly from its arrival in november 2019 and I was looking forward to seeing his latest offering in a few days time.

The coast was calling and a short  hop down and along the coast to Los Silos rewarded me with a walk around the inside of the former monastry. Its balconies were now home to the council, its culture, and the library. Outside the gleaming white facade of the church dedicated to Our Lady Of The Light, domated the skyline. It was a quiet afternooh with many fleeing to the cool embrace of the beach and natural pools. Small groups of hill walkers cascaded down  from the lofty heights above, the coast is a popular area for those looking to take a step or two.

Retreating back a few bus stops.I came at Garachico from the opposite direction to previous trips. The mirador viewpoint with our baggage hanfling stone friend  looked across several deeply sunk rocky bays that lured anglers. The old port promised more tight lines while the bay of Playa de la muelle basked in its newly gained honour of a blue flag for excellence and quality. This was one of seven new flag awards bestowed on the Canary Islands to increase the island stock to 56. Life guards ensured it observed social distancing and safety without spoiling a good swim.

The natural rock pools of the Piscinas de El Caleton were off limits, repair work for the latest bug pounding by waves in 2018 will keep them that way a while longer but El muelle will at least be able to absorb the blow a little. The old fort stood proud and the veteran quayside was happy in its modern use as a gathering point for fishermen and view admireres. Adverse weather has helped to shape and define this corner of Tenerife. Lots of power has  been a challenge but always followed by lots of glory.

Cleanse your memory of forced museum visits in your school days. Times have changed and Tenerife capital Santa Cruz is a prime example of this. The Museum of Nature and Arqueology (MUNA) fitted the bill perfectly for the first of my months unlimited travel, residents pass,journey with Titsa bus company. The chance to rediscover some old favourites, neglected corners, and overlooked attractions suited the mood of the steady recovery from the Coronavirus lockdown. Phase Two was just about to dilute into the wider freedom of Phase Three across Spain and I´m keen to put Tenerife firmly back in the tourist window. The museums were offering free entry to their Santa Cruz and La Laguna buildings on a daily basis from 10 am to 5 pm until normality returned.

The three floors of the bright, modern layout before me, covered the birth and evolution of our planet and the Canary Islands in particular.  From minerals and rocks, through plants, animals, and natures volatile interventions, it was all in my face on large video screens, many interactive, and in a choice of Spanish, English, or German.They really pack a lot in to the building, the display halls were a treasure trove of interest and all a far cry from the stuffy presentations of my youth. The most famous exhibits are the mummified remains of the Guanche people, the original inhabitants of Tenerife, The foot in this photo is just a tease, the preserved skeletons are both stunning and shocking and best seen for yourself. Updates of all the museums are on the website along with normal times and charges.

Outside, Santa Cruz wasn´t standing still. The Auditorium had recently played a part in the filming of an advert for the new Porsche 911 Targa 45. A short splash away, the Floatel Reliance, a moveable hotel serving the oil exploration rihs, had just made its own showbiz bow. The long term upgrade of the giant worked out just right for its large kitchen galley to host filming for the new HBO series “The Head” which debuts on 12 June 2020. The Antarctic based mystery series will be shown in 30 countries, the Canary Islands are really striking oil these days as a location for film and TV projects.

Up in town, the La Recova market was buzzing and coping well with the social distancing restrictions. They have a keen sense of history and are restoring the original clock mechanism for the tower which has stood proud since the centre opened in 1943, I might as well name drop and tell you that La Recova was used for the final of BBC Masterchef a couple of years ago. Santa Cruz and La Laguna have an impressive quick link tram, it only seems a blink ago when I first discovered its sleek journeys but this last week it was celebrating 13 years of smooth running.

Down in the port, the Aida Nova cruise ship smiled sweetly, pleased to have found a temporary berth until the worlds ebb and flow regained some stability. Time for me to check my maps and time tables and to relish the prospect of my next excursions.

Just suppose Mount Teide erupted chocolate all over Tenerife, what a yummy time we would have, and at least the UK tabloids would have to be a bit more inventive with their headlines. It was just a thought that made the lonely journey through my empty head as I admired the chocolate belen (nativity scene) in San Miguel. There were plenty of other festive treats to pack in on a pre Christmas day out on the Titsa bus.

Water, and energy bars were more likely on the menu of the lycra clad cyclists that tested themselves up the steep incline above Valle San Lorenzo as the 416 Los Cristianos bus took me high above Arona and past the Ceninela mirador against the backdrop of clear blue skies. Getting off at the entrance to San Miguel I could feel a crisp chill as I started to snap the roadside decorations that always brighten up the town. Chocolate was top of my list so I took the turn down past the eye catching blue and white Ayuntamiento (council) building just above the El Ajibe exhibition hall. Quite a star in its own right, the hall is an old water tank converted to show off arts and crafts.

What a feast awaited my eyes, a mix of traditional Christmas items such as angels, with the San Miguel influence of the church that dominates the local skyline, and even a couple of trains. Two members of staff were choo chooing and generally regressing to their youth and I felt much the same way. A lot of work had gone into making the display but if I had been holding a cup of tea I might not have been able to resist a snack attack. The exhibition is free and open from 9am to 2pm on week days, excluding holidays, until 6 January. On the way back up to the main street I took a moment to admire the cascading monument to one of the founding fathers of San Miguel in the Plaza de Agricultor. Each year San Miguel encourages local groups to decorate the streets with eye catching yuletide creations, it all added to my jolly mood.

Of course I couldn´t move on without visiting a few other key places, starting with the Casa de El Capitan, an imposing building from 1814 dedicated to the traditional pottery made in the area. The church plaza also drew me in, partly for the great views of El Medano and the coast below, but mainly for the style and grace of the church itself. Hopping on the next 416 bus I completed my journey to Granadilla, a little higher up. They were going for a more modest intrusion of Christmas but the natural beauty of the quiet streets and another equally grand church were good rewards for my short leg of the trip. It´s good walking country in this part of Tenerife, I have pounded a few paths but there´s still plenty to add to y tick list.

Even without stop offs, the 416 is a very enjoyable journey. Just an hour direct between Los Cristianos and Granadilla, the fares are very cheap using a Ten Mas pre paid card. My broken journey on the way up, and the straight return trip only totalled 4.70 euros. It was a very sweet day and a further incentive to get out and about even more in 2020.

Pocket size beach cove, Las Galgas, was secluded and sparsely used as I came around the coastal path from Callao Salvaje into Playa Paraiso. The second stage of my Tenerife west coast visit was set on a gift wrapped present of a December day and I had a lot of catching up to do. The twin stacks of the Hard Rock Hotel were new on my last visit three years ago and things were beginning to change in the overlooked and neglected area.

JCB diggers were carving out new channels from the barranco at the rear but those few dipping into the sea were greeted with gentle waves. Below the coastal walk between the two resorts, the isolated outcrops of rock looked inviting but potentially dangerous. Taking the steep walk down and back up the other side of Las Galgas I was soon on the modern pedestrian promenade, wide, clean, and a pleasant place to stroll. Warnings signs at the access points to rock pools are frequently ignored but a little further renovated steps down from the main road led to the small dark sand that backs onto the imported orange sand of the Hard Rock Hotel swimming pool complex.. It had been in a sorry state for years but its now its buzzing with music, cocktails, and a bridge linking it directly to the hotel. It is also open to non hotel paying visitors.

The horizon is now dominated by modern hotels, the huge three stage H10 Atlantic Sunset gleamed in the sun,the loop of land it sits on used to be a bit of a dumping ground and a magnet for auto caravans at fiesta and holiday times. The influence of the new posher neighbours can be felt all through Playa Paraiso, Punta Paraiso is now home to Roja Negra beach bar, and walking up into the main street outside Hard Rock Hotel, most bars and restaurants were either boasting new looks and names, or up for sale and rent.  I´m guessing that rents have increased with the makeover, it´s a shame for the old bars that kept the flag flying when Paraiso was less fashionable but there were noticeably more people sat outside enjoying food and drink. There´s even a rock supermarket, those groceries have a lot to live up to – maybe Prefab Sprout would be appropriate! The rebirth continues, the Roca Mar complex, by the Adrian Hoteles Roca Navaria, is a white elephant that never got any tenants, a team were busy coating it with new aluminium panels ready for an expected influx of new shops.

One of the biggest changes has come at the old abandoned apartment building at the lower entry to Playa Paraiso. It had been part built and left as a rusting, crumbling wreck for decades but is now a gleaming white private apartment block and soon to be home for the Expo Vida project. Originally Expo Vida was promoted as a health theme park to emerge from the wreckage of the old Sky Park in Torviscas, but judging by the lack of progress on the other site, it seems to have a new scaled down home. The building frontage is very striking with dynamic, thrusting statues, I love the humour as in the figure propping up one of the main walls.

As I was in the area, I had to check out the newly opened CC Rosa Center shopping complex part way up the main road out of the resort. This one is a bit of a clone of Parque Santiago 6 and the three layers only have 35 units, many were not yet open. Pretty standard fare, Hiperdino, Burger King, a couple of coffee shops, Springfield, and a large Stradivarius transported from the centre of Los Cristianos. The large top floor terrace will be a nice place to enjoy food, drink, and views, once the other units open, and the flowers and plants will look better once they have grown out of their perfect just planted shapes. In general it´s a bit bland, too many straight lines, and the outside gates reminded me of the old football ground turnstiles. Music was a big theme of my day, it was flowing out from Hard Rock Hotel and H10 and there was muzak hanging in the air at Rosa. when I used the toilets I had Aretha Franklin for company, a bit off putting. Don´t let this cynical old git put you off, go and check these places out for yourself, it´s good to explore.

Like the ebb and flow of the sparkling sea, Playa Ajabo at Callao Salvaje on the west coast of Tenerife, is used to change. For many years a sandy makeover of the rough pebble beach was promised and was delivered in July 2013. My first visit for three years coincided with the removal of the damaged sunbeds, but there was still a good spread of people enjoying the gorgeous December sun, and dipping in the refreshing waters.

My hour journey from Los Cristianos on the 473 Titsa bus put me in a chipper mood, the council workrs of several municipalities were busy planting festive poinsettias and adding Christmas decorations along the route. Hopping off early at the top of the main road into Callao Salvaje, gave me the chance to savour the clear views of the sea with the island of La Gomera clear in the distance. It also allowed me to check out the distinctive community  church in the Plaza da la Mujer Trabajadora (the working woman). Home to catholic and Russian orthodox services, it´s still an infant at barely 10 years old. The shelf overlooking the sea at the bottom of the road is always a great spot to savour the sea view.

After hearing tales of turbulent times at the beach, my first view showed a more basic layout than my last call. When it opened after the big makeover, the sun shades had call buzzers that summoned waiters from the café restaurant up above. Sadly it was closed a couple of years ago and a gradual decline has followed below. The arm of the quay never did take on small boats and fishing as it was intended but was proving popular as a launch point for swimmers  and a sun bathing spot. With the loss of the food and drink outlet, the sunbeds were also abandoned until recently unscrupulous chancers were trying to illegally charge sun bathers for using the abandoned rests. The beds were then chained to the shades and most were broken and unusable, but a crew of staff and a pick up truck was loading them to take away.

The sea can be wild at Playa Ajabo, the high sided rocky surrounds are held in check by metal mesh and a barranco (ravine) gulley channels rain down either side of the beach. It´s all part of the rugged charm of this area, getting the balance right is a challenge but one that has been managed pretty well. I like the way the makeover left a large protruding rock cluster on the middle of the beach, like a defiant gesture from nature. The coastal path has been improved and makes a bracing walk to link up with Playa Paraiso. The rock formations and swirls of the incoming tides sooth the mind and the modern concrete bridge over the small barranco removes the scrabble down and up to the other side. There was clearly a sense of local pride, an ashtray tree waved a flag for conservation and protection. The dwindling cap of snow on Mount Teide added another attraction to enjoying the day.

Even if the restaurant doesn´t get a re-birth in the near future, the beach will still attract plenty of people. The walkways down to the sand from each side make access easier and there were a few takers for the rock steps further round beyond the outstretched quay. It was time for me to push on and see what was happening just up the coast at Playa Paraiso, more of that soon.

Brolly shaped Christmas lights, and roast chestnut stalls bore witness to the fast fading year, but a whopping 31 degrees of bright sun greeted me as I arrived in La Laguna. Normally it’s a good few degrees below the Tenerife capital of Santa Cruz, where I had swapped my Titsa public service bus from Los Cristianos for the smooth glide of the tram.

After a few months of neglecting my travels, it was good to see the UNESCO Heritage Site city bustling with people. The Palacio Nava looked resplendent with its balconies, balustrades, and columned tower. The Plaza del Adelantado opposite was a leafy oasis, scrubbed clean in recent years and a popular meeting place. A wide circular walk around the city centre brought me into the Plaza de la Concepcion and the church tower with its distinctive bell chimes. All life was converging in the pedestrianised streets below, a few unusual vehicles lurked on the edges, as their owners took coffee and snacks in the thriving cafes and bars.

Ending up back at the La Trinidad tram terminus, I was lured down track by the wonderful murals painted on the buildings, and was lucky enough to catch one being created. He was quiet happy to be kept in shot, a Policia Local copper walked past us and just smiled. La Laguna was the temporary home of famous painter Oscar Dominguez , and the University has a large fine arts faculty. I followed the road down to the roundabout, where Padre Anchieta’s statue stands vigil on a grassy island. Planes were coming in low from the coast for Tenerife North (Los Rodeos) airport. It´s quite a traffic hub there, The modern Titsa bus station stands opposite, and down below, the tram line stop is handy for the University.

My only real interaction with the University campus came around 10 years ago when seeing Echo & The Bunnymen playing part way down a free line up for an outside concert. It was time to update my education, so I wandered through the grounds of the modern part of the campus, an inspiring mix of ancient and modern. The large attached garden boasted a statue of a very learned looking founding father. The tram is a wonderful, cheap way to link Santa Cruz with La Laguna in just over 30 minutes, and the views as your carriages snake their way upwards, or now on my return, downwards, adds to the journey.

The harp like herald of the tram announcements signalled my return to the Santa Cruz terminus, just outside the bus station, and opposite the Auditorium. The hook nose always beckons me across, a walk around the perimeter concourse is always a 360 degree education for the view out to sea, the port, and inward to the capital city as it rises into the mountains. The cafe bar open to the ocean side has made it a popular stop off for many visitors, and the ticket office has now expanded into selling merchandise featuring the distinctive hook nosed building.

One of my main calls in Santa Cruz was to see the completed look of the long delayed opening up of the port approach into Plaza de España. This final stage has taken 16 months, 3.5 million euros, and covers 18,400 square metres from the Cabildo HQ on the south side, to the ferry port, basically the area that the coast road now runs under. There is a cycle lane, exercise area, large circular pergolas, benches, and flower beds. It looks loads better for the thousands of cruise ship visitors that arrive weekly, and is a restful place to contemplate Tenerife´s relationship with the ocean and the lands beyond. There was a nice scattering of admirers taking the late afternoon air, stretching their muscles, and even a few young couples having a romantic canoodle.

A few more calls had slipped from my list, but there would be other opportunities, and there´s always something new to see. It was good to be wandering again, I could feel my old bounce coming back. Hopefully my final stop, CD Tenerife v SD Huesca, wouldn´t puncture the mood.

Glowing with pride rather than jumping for joy. That would be the under stated reaction from Tenerife fishing village Las Galletas if Arona council plans for a new beach and promenade take shape. Although just a 25 minute hop from Los Cristianos, change has been gradual and respectful of tradition.

The shingle and dark sand crescent beach was almost deserted for my dull day visit, but I have enjoyed many swims in the gently shelving, calm of the sea framed by small boats. There is plenty of rough ground just across the main road to allow for a widened promenade with imported sand to make the beach more comfortable. At the moment showering is a free show for the cars and buses passing through, and a kiosk bar, plus a toilet and changing block are the only amenities. A few years ago large stones were cleared off the sand but soon back individually by bathers to anchor their towels.

The biggest change of recent years has been the building of the attractive Marina del Sur, that embraces the sea in front of the beach and has added pontoons for pleasure boats, restaurants for strollers, and a high wall for views out to the ocean. Fishermen still sell their morning catch from old wooden stalls just along from a rusty iron canon. A new modern sales room was spurned by fishermen who prefer to be on the front line where it is much truer to the character of the area. Modern trends in sea based sports and excursions are well catered for along the Marina, old King Neptune looks down on the ancient and modern mix approvingly.

The Paseo Litoral is the popular walk between a stretch of restaurants and the banked stones that slope into the sea, the waves are much livelier this side and attract surfers rather that swimmers.The crunch of the shingle as it is dragged in and out is a pleasant backing track to the popular sun trap walk. Behind the restaurants is La Rambla, a shady mix of gardens and sculptures, look out for a series of large artistic shells designed by Maria Isabel Reyes Gonzalez. Modern intruders come in the shape of aeroplanes heading for Reina Sofia airport, they are low enough to get to know the crew, but soon become just a curiosity rather than an intrusion. The old part of town is made up of tight back streets and a pedestrianised central shopping area, many of the shops there close for an afternoon siesta but you can always find a coffee or snack stop. Frequent fiestas and promotions turn the centre into a cultural mix for all ages.

Arona is rightly proud of its older, more traditional areas, and that is reflected in the mural just before taking the short passage back out to the sea front. It may take a few years for a new beach and promenade to arrive, Las Galletas is used to moving at a sedate pace and is always a welcome place to relax and take it easy.

If Christopher Colombus could discover America after a stop off at the island of La Gomera, I felt I should at least do a little local exploring in the island’s capital city of San Sebastian. With the 28 crews of the Talisker Whisky Atlantic Challenge heading for Antigua, something at least a little energetic was called for before taking the ferry back to Tenerife.

The Mirador de la Hila had already offered me rewarding views of the marina but after taking the steep stone steps up from behind the main plaza I was determined to press on up the corkscrew road. The views kept getting better, not just seawards but also inland to the folds of the hills. A tight corner brought me to the edge of an old parador, followed by an old water mill undergoing a facelift. I was on the cliff top road and the sign Camino del Faro showed me that I was on target to see the lighthouse I craned my neck to see on the ferry over.

There was a nice mix of old houses and new developments, tastefully kept to just two storeys and without any garish colour schemes. A couple of little shops and bars were shutting for an afternoon siesta, and the sun and gentle breeze wafted me along in a contented mood. The pink and white lighthouse stood proud but once I got closer I could see an older, squatter guardian nearer the cliff edge. The smaller version was built in 1903 and originally used combustable gas before being replaced at a later date by the more familiar style of lighthouse. It was very like the dual set up at Malpais de Rasca in the south of Tenerife. A tight, winding path carried on past the delightful buildings, and a craggy coastline threw sea spray up far below.

I slowly retraced my steps and noticed a small, leafy plaza, a few steps up from the road, two local old chaps were playing dominoes and enjoying a couple of cold beers. Back down at street level I had a wander down the main street from the plaza, looking up I could see a white cross on another hill, something to check out on my next visit. There were two churches on the quiet road, the large church of Assumption, and the tiny Ermita of Guadalupe.

La Gomera is very proud of its association with Christopher Columbus (Cristobal Colon) there was a small bust of the great explorer near the sea end of the street, best described as “different”. It looks like I feel some weekend mornings and was unveiled in 2006 by King Juan Carlos and Queen Sofia of Spain. A much more noble tribute is the new full size statue near the plaza, unveiled in summer 2018. For such a small island, La Gomera packs in plenty of history. Through the archway cave on the far side of the ferry port, the Playa de la Cueva looked sedate and inviting, the view of Tenerife and Mount Teide differs from day to day depending on the weather. The old restaurant on this side has been closed and neglected for years, so it was a good sign to see workman repairing the surrounding courtyard. It meant that access to the rocky outcrop was closed, there is a metal bowl at its peak, it was lit up with a beacon from the Olympic torch for the 1968 Tokyo games, and the 50th anniversary was celebrated recently.

The rest of La Gomera is equally pleasing, I must revisit other points on the island, I checked out the bus station and Vallehermoso in the north is just a 75 minute ride away, and there are plenty of good walks to check out. My last trip around the island was shadowing a British Cycling team, those hill roads are real thrillers. San Sebastian in now firmly on the rowing map, another Atlantic Challenge takes place next year. The 45 minute crossing back to Tenerife was smooth and the ferry was quite full, La Gomera has won plenty more new admirers.