Being away from Tenerife can leave a big hole in your life. Just ask “El Emigrante Canario” looking out to sea from Garachico. he was one of several welcome artistic intrusions on my latest day out. Los Cristianos to Adeje bus station was a mere blink before catching the 460 Titsa bus to Icod.
Banks of cloud came and went with the rise, and short lived falls from the increasing altitude as i passed through Guia de Isora, and Santiago del Teide. It was reassuring to see the Titsa mini bus waiting at Santiago to offer a transfer to Masca village, but sadly not to the barranco valley, still a long term safety closure. Icod welcomed me with its corkscrew road down the main town so i could make my obligatory nod to the Drago tree from the church plaza. I was distracted by the amusing sight of the gargoyles on the plant bowls, they seemed to be sniggering as they cut across the beauty of the church tower and the lilac trees.
The main shopping street of icod was ticking over nicely, its relaxed, informal feel boosted by the tight winding bricked street. Those seeking refreshment spilled over below the stairs of the town hall, and upstairs love was in the square. The Arbol Amor (Love Tree) by wood artist Luis Stinga was still posing proudly from its arrival in november 2019 and I was looking forward to seeing his latest offering in a few days time.
The coast was calling and a short hop down and along the coast to Los Silos rewarded me with a walk around the inside of the former monastry. Its balconies were now home to the council, its culture, and the library. Outside the gleaming white facade of the church dedicated to Our Lady Of The Light, domated the skyline. It was a quiet afternooh with many fleeing to the cool embrace of the beach and natural pools. Small groups of hill walkers cascaded down from the lofty heights above, the coast is a popular area for those looking to take a step or two.
Retreating back a few bus stops.I came at Garachico from the opposite direction to previous trips. The mirador viewpoint with our baggage hanfling stone friend looked across several deeply sunk rocky bays that lured anglers. The old port promised more tight lines while the bay of Playa de la muelle basked in its newly gained honour of a blue flag for excellence and quality. This was one of seven new flag awards bestowed on the Canary Islands to increase the island stock to 56. Life guards ensured it observed social distancing and safety without spoiling a good swim.
The natural rock pools of the Piscinas de El Caleton were off limits, repair work for the latest bug pounding by waves in 2018 will keep them that way a while longer but El muelle will at least be able to absorb the blow a little. The old fort stood proud and the veteran quayside was happy in its modern use as a gathering point for fishermen and view admireres. Adverse weather has helped to shape and define this corner of Tenerife. Lots of power has been a challenge but always followed by lots of glory.