Eerily quiet and sock soakingly hot, that’s how I found Vilaflor today, of course I must add one more key word – beautiful. I was gob smacked to realise, it was nearly 6 years ago that I last visited this old spa town, a brief pass through then after wrestling with Paisaje Lunar, my first big Tenerife mountain walk. Even if the locals had got wind that I was making a return trip, and taking into account the current near 40 degree heat, it seemed very quiet, not even many tourists in this popular walking area.
What an easy place to visit, just 45 minutes from Los Cristianos and 1.65 euros on my Bono Titsa bus ticket, and the 482 had transported me up to the 1,400 metre high town, nestling among the army of pine trees that marches up into the horizon. I was a bit concerned that the bus whizzed past the town and skyward, but dropping me off just beyond the boundary, left an easier walk down a side road into town. A breeze ran across me,but it couldn’t hide the searing heat, the tall pines are not only proud and imposing, they also catch any small flecks of moisture in the air, not today of course, and drain them down into the soil, that combined with the spa, has made Vilaflor an important centre for agriculture.
A few yards down the road, I found the Chorillo, an old outdoor public washing area, the plaque said restoration work started in 2005, but I can’t say it looked too advanced, apart from a newish roof, and there was no water – perhaps that would put too much pressure on the constant upkeep. A little further along, large trucks were loading up with bottled water from the Fuente Alta factory – oh to have shares in them at scorching times like this.
One man casts a giant shadow over Vilaflor, Hermano Pedro, the Canary Islands only saint, born in 1626, he lived for a while in a cave near El Medano, before taking his healing mission to Guatemala, where he died in 1667, and was canonised by the Pope in 2002. The Iglesia de San Pedro Apostle, is a fine centrepiece to the town, but his prescence is everywhere, at the far end of town, a large statue greets visitors and many houses are crowned with a colourful tile depicting part of his life, there are many different ones to spot.
The main street was surprisingly quiet, many shops and cafes were closed, and few took advantage of the shady roadside benches. Sadly many locals now have to work out of town in the day, but that is the story in many of the more remote places I visit, but they still have a sedate daytime shuffle. Popping down some side streets, I noticed many old houses were abandoned, the library was marked “permantly closed” and the Los Girasoles rural hotel was closed and for sale. At least nature still has a busy schedule, the orange trees were sprouting their fruits, cacti were turning into a contradiction of sharp needles and gorgeous colurful blooms, and the first barman who served me went on to decanter a huge flagon of local wine into bottles for more refined quaffing.
By now I was glowing like the metal on the edge of a knife (hmm could make a good rock lyric) and glad to duck into the bus shelter to wait for the 474 down to La Escalona. punching a measley 95 cents fare on my bono ticket, I made the 15 minute hop downhill to turn this into a 2 centre day out. Getting off I got chatting to a German couple, that had been on my morning bus, seems I am not the only one doing the Titsa tango around the island, nice to see tourists realising the quality of service given by Tenerife buses.
La Escalona was also subdued, but having just come off a fiesta weekend, it’s hardly surprising. A nice little modern village, I could see that many houses had been recently renovated. I had a wander, and popped into the Restaurant La Barrica for a much needed cold drink, what a lovely friendly place, a plate of bread with a hot salsa sauce, arrived with my drink, just wish I had time to stay for a full meal.There is just one southern Titsa bus a day up to Mount Teide, and it was due through within the half hour, so I forced another cold coke (not what you were thinking) down at the La Curva bar opposite the bus stop and the plaza with its distinctive church tower. I had noticed a few dragon flys in Vilaflor, but there seemed to be loads here, one settled on the outside terrace floor as I sipped and I managed to get a quick shot. I knew an email to Steve Andrews, the Bard Of Ely, on my return would produce a name for the little critter-a Scarlet Darter.
The 342 bus from Teide was spot on with my estimation and within 30 minutes, and just 80 cents down on my Bono, I was back in Los Cristianos, and my German friends were off home with tales to tell of Tenerife transport efficiency, and the natural beauty to be found in the mountains of this special island.