Apparently 13% of visitors to Tenerife use one of the many walking trails, as I battled my way through 30 staff wielding German hikers and onto the 460 Icod bus from Las Americas I thought that figure could be a bit low. For once I was headed for a more sedate excursion, a good old poke around Santiago del Teide, a village I have passed through many times but never given it the attention it deserves.
Most of the walkers also got off at my stop but transferred straight onto the 355 Titsa mini bus for Masca or headed up onto the Chinyero volcano trail. Left at the main plaza I savoured the cool air and the tranquillity, determined to leave no stone unturned I passed the church of San Fernando Rey and turned into Senora del Valle, home to a rather lovely rural hotel and the Casa del Patio, all laid out on natures finest canvas.
The pine tree covered hills were soft and majestic but a noisy rooster was determined to make his case and as I moved inside the courtyard a couple of squawking parrots in a cage stuck their beaks in – bless. There is a riding centre at the back of the grounds but the horses were having a lay in or getting their oats. Casa del Patio, an old rural house was restored and opened in 2009, perfect timing for the 100th anniversary of the Chinyero eruption, they now have a permanent exhibition which I found fascinating. Outside two sturdy wine presses stand guard, methods have changed these days but Santiago del Teide still produces some memorable wines.
Back past the church and the imposing statue of Guanche Prince Alonso Diaz, the main street was quiet apart from the odd wave of lycra clad cyclists and a convoy of jeeps on their way to Masca. A glance down a side street and an odd structure caught my eye, I had to investigate and found it was a tribute to the local volunteer firemen that had been killed in action. Honour and Glory it proclaimed and a few yards along the bomberos station stands as an ongoing commitment to this service.
My main objective of the day was to walk up the Camino de la Fuente de la Virgen, an archway leading up a rugged path marked with white crosses on the way to a shrine to Our Lady of Lourdes whose statue was blessed and placed next to a spring in 1990. A mere stroll compared to the long walks I have done but one of the most beautiful and emotive climbs I can recall. Each cross had a round sculpted bible scene at its base and although plain and stark each cross was packed with cultural and religious significance.
The path was quite steep and winding and the wisps of cloud that flit by in this part of Tenerife revealed a clear hot sky. I was going to take a quick breather half way up but noticed the stones were alive with armies of scuttling ants. The shrine was hewn into the rock and decorated with flowers and had some small stools so visitors could rest and contemplate. Just next door was an alter and a large bell, an oil drum brimming with foliage and discarded candles showed that the shrine was lovingly tended and used for acts of worship. A discarded Spanish teen mag suggested that younger worshippers sometimes scampered up here to contemplate their own idols. As for the spring, that looked like it had been dry for a long time and not just during this current parched spell.
The views down over Santiago del Teide were wonderful, not that high but revealing of the landscape that was carved out by volcanoes and now is being opened up further to the east by the new ring road and tunnels through the mountain. It’s a good job I’m not easily spooked as the bushes were twitching as large lizards went about their business, quite a nice spot for them with so many ants on tap. My descent was slow as I drank in every last sensation from this special route, and back in the village I relaxed with a coffee and cake at one of several delightful and friendly bars.