Santa Cruz, Siam Park, San Juan and Tenerife Sun

There’s always plenty going on in Tenerife, and lots of new attractions. A good 2-1 home win for CD Tenerife on Sunday in Santa Cruz rekindled outside chances of promotion to the Primera, the promised land of Real Madrid and Barcelona.

The win of course was marked by a few cheeky Dorada’s. Fast forward to Monday morning and there I was at the top of The Tower of Power in Siam Park, the Adeje water kingdom, that opens on May 1st. The 28 metre slide to a pool below wasn’t quite what the morning after tummy wanted but I stood my ground, took my photos and edged warrily back down the 256 stone stairs, at this unfinished stage, very open to the breeze.

The DragonÂ

I had arranged the sneak preview for The Tenerife Sun, and it included meeting Christoph Kiessling, the boss, and creative genius behind the new park. The lovely Romy, from the sales office was also on hand and together they gave me a full tour of the impressive and slightly daunting attractions. The Dragon looked and sounded suitably scary with the promise of a rotor like spin in both directions and zero gravity, and the expanse of white sandy beach stood out although the wave tower was turned off, so no 3 metre waves on that day.

Just a few days earlier, I was looking at a very different new beach (corny link no 157) this time in Playa San Juan, where the 3 million euros project was coming to completion. I know work can be slow here but it is nice to see such a pleasing end result. Workmen were still swarming over the beach, raking and grading it, as old Canarian men made early claims on the seating areas by the path, and looked on approvingly.

Playa San JuanÂ

Nice place Playa San Juan, it deserves the new beach, Guia de Isora council are pretty go ahead and have made a lot of effort to improve their municipality. The walkway behind the new beach extends round the headland past a cave worn into the rock, on to a more rural beach. After my visit, I walked off to the west along the other shoreline path that links to Alcala and realised that my memory had over estimated how easy it was to climb, crawl and balance past the tricky half way point that can be avoided with a detour through Fonsalia. There’s more on the Alcala stretch further back on this blog, just enter exploring in the search and it will be closer to hand.

Anyway, like Siam Park, the San Juan visit was for The Tenerife Sun, now under new ownership. Follow the links to the first re born issue to find the 2 location reports (Siam-property page12, San Juan-property page 15) plus my news on 2 concerts in Scene Around and a match report on CD Tenerife (sport), among all the other goodies.

Is Santa Cruz transport Up the Junction?

TitsaSomething had to give. It was clear when the new, and I must say excellent, tram system was being installed, that it couldn’t please everybody, and now 9 months down the line, taxi drivers and the Titsa bus company are feeling the pinch.

The tram has been a big hit, sleek and stylish, fast and direct and with 8 million passengers paying 9 million euros in fares already, Â it has answered a lot of critics. The Cabildo owned Titsa bus company have made several complaints, routes disrupted to allow the tram a smooth passage and of course dwindling passengers, a potential threat to jobs. They have just hit back by slicing 10 minutes off the 015 service between La Laguna and Santa Cruz, making it’s 20 minute trip a bit faster than the tram but the flash new kid in town calls at many more stops on a long winding route.Tram

But the loudest squeals are coming from the taxi companies, especially those in La Laguna, who have denounced their big city neighbours for crossing their boundaries to poach some extra fares to make up for their losses to the tram. La Laguna has 400 licensed taxis and Santa Cruz has 1.087, and at the moment the only hand signals they are exchanging are two fingered ones.

Things got a little more tense this week when Radio Taxis of La Laguna had their aeriel transmitter cable cut, putting 300 drivers out of action while the repair was made. No direct accusations have been made but it all adds to the spirit of mistrust. Whatever happens next, there is bound to be a lot more clenched teeth, blasted horns and frantically rung bells before peace breaks out on the mean streets of the municipality.

Nautical but nice – Marina del Sur

It only seems like the other week that I popped over to Las Galletas to see the progress of the new marina (scroll down 9 stories) but paying a return trip yesterday, I found it open to the public, so do join me for a viewing.

King NeptuneKing Neptune stands proud, trident in hand, high on his plinth, at the Marina del Sur, the new addition to the Las Galletas shoreline. It’s a pride that will soon be shared with the local fishing trade and visiting tourists to this thriving Arona village.

The outstretched embrace of the marina, seperates the sand and pebble beach from the promenade of cafes and bars, and although it still needs some fixtures and formalities before it is in full use, there is plenty to impress. Already the four pontoons are fully moored up with boats and pleasure craft, and the farther of the two large pavillions, has an occupied maritime office looking out to sea.

The old police station on the shore has been demolished but a new Policia Local office is just along the new boardwalk. Don’t worry that all tradition has been swept away, the rusty old iron canon, guarding the shore, has just been shuffled a few yards nearer to the beach.

Marina del Sur

Las Galletas is very much a working village, but modern commercial pressures have Ptscadorsmade it hard in recent years, for fishermen whose families have harvested the sea for generations. It’s time they had a helping hand, and the marina will see to that. The old wooden stalls on the shore are cramped and in disrepair, but have had to do for selling points for their catch of each day. Now there is a bright modern Pescadors Centre on the marina, where the fishermen can wash, gut and sell their fish.

It’s good news as well for tourism, a growing source of income for Las Galletas. The marina is not just functional, it’s stylish and attractive, from it’s blue and white colour scheme, right through to the small touches like old Neptune keeping guard, and anchor designs in the metalwork of the railings.

Boardwalk

The first pavillion, at shore side, has commercial units ready for occupation and an open roof terrace that will make a great cafe to view the area from. There are two toilet blocks along the boardwalk, with disabled facillities, and while the lamp standards will make it an inviting evening walk, inset ground lights will clearly mark the edges and stop feet from straying too far. Add in some marble benches at sutable intervals, and large flower urns, and it’s clear that this will be a welcome addition to Las Galletas.

Meet your flexible friend for all 7 islands

There’s a new discount and loyalty card available across the 7 Canary Islands, and this one doesn’t have the usual sting in the tail. As the latest promotional effort, Promotur, the tourism agency for the Gobierno (government for all the islands) has come up with a free pack aimed at tourists, that contains discounts for 2,000 Canarian outlets.

Discount Card

The idea is you fill in a questionaire about your holiday and previous trips to the islands and your card is activated. Along with the card, there is a map and a booklet listing all the outlets and what they are offering. The holder and their “companian” can both use the card and each time they do, a point is credited to their account number. At some stage in the future, a catalogue will be issued showing gifts that the points can earn you.

Okay, that’s the deal, is it any good? Firstly I must say I came across it at a tourist information centre, I haven’t seen it mentioned in any media outlets, I assume it will be pushed at airports etc as well. All the info is in Spanish, German and English and there is a website www.turismodecanarias.com and a phone number 902105480. Most of the discounts are about 5 or 10 per cent but some are little extras, like a free vehicle upgrade on car hire. It’s a good idea, it’s always good to see the government making some effort to help business’s in these lean times.

I’m a bit concerned that I haven’t seen any posters or mention of it in the media, but maybe that will follow. Please don’t let it turn out like the banana idea last year when tourists arriving in Tenerife were supposed to get a little pack of bananas on arrival with some information sheets concerning a new helpline, it never happened in the end, apparently because the phoneline was hardly used – maybe because no one knew about it. It’s also a bit worrying that the card is free as part of a “launch promotion” the pack it came in had 10 euros marked on it, can’t see anyone forking out 10 euros without knowing any of the outlets.

Anyway, brushing aside my natural cynicism, more power to the tourism department, it’s going to be a tough year for many business’s and anything that can help will be very welcome.

Wait for it, wait for it!

Patience is a virtue, especially in Tenerife. The Cabildo (Tenerife government) proudly announced that the revamped Plaza de España in Santa Cruz will finally be ready on March 17. A few days later, the architect of the new look plaza, Virgilio Gutierrez cast doubt on their optimism by saying it would be more like May.

Plaza de EspañaEither way, it shouldn’t be long now and judging by the plans and what I have seen so far of the completed work, it will be excellent and a great new focal point for the capital city. Wells have been sunk into the ground and the sea water in them will feed a central lagoon, trees will line the perimiter and modern fibre optic lighting will set it off a treat.

While digging out the walkway under the square, they found the old battlements of Santa Cruz, and they will be on show as part of the finished project. There is a great website www.plaza-esp.com that shows some of the history of the plaza and how it will look when finished. With the tram system now well established, Santa Cruz is looking the part as a modern capital city.Â

In praise of Puerto de la Cruz

Overlooked and under funded, that’s how Puerto de la Cruz is feeling these days, tourism seems to be passing it by, even Loro Parque visitors tend to be coached in and out without seeing the city. That’s a great shame as Puerto de la Cruz has loads to offer.

Playa Martianez

Even the direct Titsa buses from the south and west tourist centres stop at La Paz, a great place to start a visit, so i did. The mirador gives terrific views over the city and down onto Playa Martianez and the Costa Martianez swimming complex just beyond. The small plaza at the mirador has the new bust of Agatha Christie to commemorate her stay in the city that inspired one of her short stories. Walking down the narrow streets, lined with bars and shops, I soon came to the black sand beach with the Martianez cliffs towering to my side.

Facing the sea are a restaurant and a cafe/bar, these are the latest target of a crackdown by the Spanish coastal authority against illegal buildings. The 1988 Law of the Coast, states that buildings must be at least 106 metres from the shoreline. Many commercial buildings, like the Hotel Medano in Granadilla, were built long before the law but Costas have identified 600 buildings in Tenerife alone, that they want to demolish. In the long running El Medano saga, they now want to knock down the bars alongside the hotel, the cost of “expropriating” the land is put at 8.4 million euros. The Puerto beach buildings now have the wrecking ball hanging over them, but maybe the slow process of the law and legal protests will at least buy them some time.

Back to our tour, and a walk along the seafront past the large and recently renovated swimming complex, Costa Martianez. It’s an inviting area with bars and kiddies pools all at a constant 72 degrees, that’s 22.4 centigrade. Open from 10 am, it’s just 3.50 euros or 1.10 € for kids up to 10 years old, and there are residents and season discounts.

WaterfallFeeling energetic I headed up hill again, this time for Parque Tauro. Taking the steep zig zag path past the palms and waterfalls, I soon arrived at Parque Sortija, a smaller park within the main network that includes the botanical gardens. Some may prefer to get a taxi up to the casino or Hotel Miramar and take in the park before enjoying the water cascades while walking downhill. Sortija had been abandoned and become overgrown but 500,000 euros of Cabildo money 2 years ago restored it to the delightful green and pleasant land it is now. Cyclists, walkers, joggers and many wild birds and insects have really taken to the park, there’s even a pond which makes a nice focal point. Today was a bit grey and overcast but I bet in the sunnier weather, there are more picnic hampers than even Yogi Bear could imagine.

Parque Sortija

A nice slow wander back and a few soft drinks and snacks around the charm filled old city, and I was back at the bus station. Now here is a job in need of doing, an upgrade of the station has been promised for years, it shudders as buses enter and smells of piss and diesel-even Jade Goodey wouldn’t want to promote that fragrance. So pay a visit some time, hold your nose, get out of the bus station and explore.

Fish n batter at Los Cristianos Carnaval

The sardine is dead, he is no more , all that remains is a few ashes blowing on the breeze. Don’t be too upset, the sardine in question was the huge papier mache version paraded through the streets of Los Cristianos to it’s cremation down on the beach amid a cascade of fireworks.

Sardine

Lessons were learnt from last years event but sadly some bad feeling also carried over. Last years sardine was supported on scaffold poles and so heavy that it had to be dragged through the streets with the help, or hindrance, of some small castor wheels. This meant it was slow and frequently dived on by an enthusiastic crowd. Seeing the scope for danger, the organisers had the sardine on a motorised trailer this time and it worked well, the fish was higher up and easier for the crowds to see, and it moved at a better pace to it’s eventual demise.

Here’s the history for those not up to speed. Carnaval is based around Lent when the church would enforce fasting on the peasants, but at the same time their members and wealthy friends would ignore the guidelines and eat heartily. The peasants were reduced to catching the sardines that were easy to find in the sea, and the funeral of the giant sardine is a defiant 2 fingers up to the church. This is why the funeral procession is accompanied by “mourners” in widows weeds, pretending to howl with tears and throw themselves to the floor in mock grief. Many of the “widows” are men in drag.

This years parade was grander and more colourful than ever but there were some outbreaks of rock and bottle throwing at the police by local youths. Last year police rounded up some rowdy youths in the early hours after the funeral and, according to parents and neighbours, gave them a bit more than a clip round the ear. This prompted a demonstration a few weeks later, and it seems all was not forgotten at this years event.They were isolated incidents and only one youth was detained but the organisers will want to avoid any more of that next year.

A tram trip to Mars from Santa Cruz

Having neglected La Laguna of late, I headed up to Santa Cruz on the Titsa bus and changing at the bus station, finally made my first trip on the fairly new tram system. Time to hold my hands up here and admit to being a bit of a critic of the expensive tram but I was very impressed. All journeys are a mere 85 cents but one of the little extras you get from a Bono bus ticket is free or reduced fares when you take 2 journeys in quick succession – so my little jaunt registered nil when I clipped my ticket in the reader just inside the tram.Â

TramJust a quick update on the tram, the first rail for the second line, was laid in a special ceremony a couple of days ago and the La Cuesta to Tincer run is expected to be open for early 2009 with 4 stops, 6 trams, a 10 minute trip over 3.6 kms. The government has also confidently predicted that 4 lines will criss cross Santa Cruz and it’s nearby suburbs by 2015.

Anyway, one very smooth ride later, it even goes past the Dorada bottling plant – how nice, I got off right outside the Museum of Science and the Cosmos in La Laguna.

Museum

You can’t miss the building due to it’s huge satellite dish on the roof. The Bono ticket again proved it’s worth as entry is 3 euros or 1.50€ if you pay with a Bono, children under 8 are free and just 1.50€ above that age, Sundays are free for everyone. It’s worth paying the extra one euro at the door for the Turismo Cosmico – the trip to Mars – I will let you discover that pleasure for yourself, very good and great for the little ones. There are always special exhibitions on at the museum and until March 31, you can discover about living in space and see space suits and a history of launches.

Back on the tram for the 2 stops to the terminus at La Trinidad, bang in the centre of La Laguna, a quick walk along the main back street and I was at the Plaza del Cristo, new home of the local traders market.This was built in record time at the end of last year after the ancient market further along, started to collapse and slide into the barranco. You can find all your home grown produce and crafts here every day from 8am till 2pm. In the same plaza is the new ice rink, don’t get too excited, it’s not real ice and not very big, but it is good fun for the kids.

Ice rink

All in all, La Laguna is in good form and with the handy tram link, it’s definately a place worth exploring for it’s historic buildings and traditional charm.

CD Tenerife soar as Granada dive

The last day of Santa Cruz Carnaval was a good time for CD Tenerife to break their run of 4 draws with a 2-0 home win over Granada 74. The Carnaval Queen was one of 12,000 fans in attendance and there was a good sprinkling of butch hairy “women” among the supporters. Woman fan

The first half was pretty poor, not helped by a weak referee, who bought it every time a Granada player hit the deck after hardly any contact. Several of their players would have been better off in London at the BAFTA’S, chasing the best actor award.

N’Diaye had the first real chance of the game, firing wide for Tenerife after 28 minutes and Saizar did similar for the visitors a few minutes later. The ever improving Oscar Perez fired his shot into the roof of the Granada net after 39 minutes, after good work from Martinez and Nino, to delight the home fans.

NinoThe second half was better, Martinez and Ayoze both shot wide soon after the restart and Nino forced a good save from the Granada keeper. New signing Jesuli came on after 61 minutes and showed some promising moves including a goal chance late on that went wide. Crespi was the main threat for Granada but the Tenerife defence held firm. Nerves were stretched when the referee added 5 minutes of injury time but Tenerife responded well and an Oscar Perez cross was met by Nino for his 12th goal of the season and the decisive goal on the night.

The win leaves CDT in 9th place, and with the teams above, all looking very even, they are only a few points of the promotion pace.

A night of magic in Santa Cruz

I have never seen so many suspender clad legs, skimpy dresses and lavish hair do’s-and that was just the men! It could only be Carnaval night in Santa Cruz, the capital of Tenerife, where celebrations were in full swing, with this years theme of Magic, vaguely kept in mind.
I went up with 2 mates and the first hurdle was catching the Gua Gua, the public service Titsa bus, extra buses were put on through the night for the hours drive up north. The scrum down of bodies at Los Cristianos, all dressed to thrill and loaded up with clinking carrier bags and glasses to mix their drinks, started to pour onto the bus but disaster struck, the machine reading Bono tickets (advance multi journey savers) packed up leaving the driver to pull his hair out and try to coax cash only clients on board. After half an hour of heaving bodies and a quick repair from another driver, we lurched off into the night and the party cranked up a gear.Bus
Anything goes at Carnaval time, and the bus was stuffed to the rafters, with singing, drinking and dancing in the aisle, at one point I had a scantily dressed cat woman pressed up against me – but I was the one purring. Just past the Las Galletas turning on the motorway, another bus swung out in front, equally packed and with bodies writhing in the back window. At various remote stops up the motorway, the bus shelters were full of fancy dressed party goers and we even managed to squeeze a few more on but those left behind seemed happy to party in the dark.
Pulling in to Santa Cruz, the sea of bodies became a tidal wave and we were happy to be swept along grabbing a few beers on the way and admiring the weird and wonderful costumes being worn, there was even a pair of fancy dress doorman cheekily minding the doors on one of the hotels.Doormen

 Carnaval is well organised chaos, with a make shift hospital, police units at little huts scattered along the streets and an army of cleaners on standby to restore normality in the morning.
WheelThe fair along the harbour road was doing a roaring trade but we resisted the lure of the gut churning, fling em here, fling em there rides. The floats from the big parade were parked up past the ferry terminal so after a quick look round there we cut into the main shopping area of the city.
Plaza de España is still partly closed for renovation so the crowds streamed around it and up the main shoppinfg street towards Plaza de Weyler – then it got seriously crowded. It’s easy to get confused at Carnaval as nuns, angels, schoolgirls and queens squeeze by, some with hairy legs and arms – eat, drink and be Mary is the order of the night. There were plenty of “amateur” nurses, doctors and police, in uniforms that reveal much more than you get on the NHS. Side streets are transformed into a mass of dancing bodies as sexual barriers are pushed to the limits – some sights would make Russell Brand blush. Local neighbours have complained in recent years about excessive street noise, but this is one beast you can’t muzzle, I can see that they might be a little upset at the rivers of urine running from their doors and shop fronts but the clean up squad will squirt, brush and tidy everything in the morning.
GirlsFuelled by more beer, we pushed on through the throng, and several thongs, stopping for some tasty white bait at one of the stalls and a whizz round on the dodgems. We eventually made our way back to the bus station at 5am but the crowds were as packed as ever, only daylight would stop this party. The queues were long and wobbly for the bus and some strugglers had to be practically carried past the security guards and onto the bus for the slightly more subdued trip back south. A great night of fun, music and spectacle, many will return to do it all again over the next week or so but for me, sleep was calling.