Books, Bargains, And Big Big Boats In Los Cristianos

To the untrained eye I was just lazing around at Via Vai near the beach feeding my face and slurping a cold drink but another lovely afternoon was shaping up nicely. The Feria del Libro (book fair) was on its last day outside the Los Cristianos Cultural Centre, not just stalls with a range of books on culture, food and local history but also a stage where I saw soprano Candelaria Gonzalez shake the rafters at the opening presentation.

On the way to my lunch break I had popped into the 2 day Feria de Oportunidades (bargain fair) where over 40 Arona business’s had taken stalls to clear oldstock at crazy prices. It was bustling quite well with some heavy scrummig down at the more popular clothes stalls. Never get too near to a woman in search of a bargain, they are lethal, some of the stall holders were thinking about ccalling in a UN peace keeping force at one point. To the side of the stalls there was a large bouncy castle slide for the little ones to play on, they could have let me have one go down the slide it looked great fun – apparently I’m a bit old – ageist or what.

Back at my food stop a few shoppers were comparing the contents of their bargain bags and were well chuffed, in thes tight times it’s a helpful boost to struggling local business’s and adds another attraction to a fairly quiet Saturday afternoon. Looking across to the ferry port I could see the top deck of an unusually sleek and stylish boat peering over the usual fishing boats along from the old beach. I normally head round that way for a relaxing walk and a chance to talk to the fishes – their sport knowledge is sketchy but they are quite opinionated about the latest film releases.

As soon as I got near, the size of this motor yacht impressed me, obviously a very rich persons plaything and in 10 years here I have never seen a private boat moored up near where the excursion boats load and unload. It’s an open area and quite a few people had gathered to admirre the gleaming craft, the name Vive La Vie didn’t tell me much and a red flag with a Union Jack in the corner puzzled me. Someone mentioned the Cayman Islands and later research showed this to be right on the money, the motto on the flag said He Hath Founded It Upon The Sea . A big chap who didn’t look short of a euro disembarked down the gang plank and in perfect polite English answered a few general questions and was suitably vague about the yachts owners. I did ask for a tour on board but got the no I expected.

Anyway a mix of scraps of info and later frantic internet action told ne the 60 metre yacht was built in 2008 at Bremen, Germany by Lurssen to specific specifications for “a man and his family”. Top speed is 18 nautical miles an hour, it can sleep 12 each of crew and guests but most impressive of all was the fantastic inside design with a hi tech modern lounge, a fitness room, bedrooms that would shame many hotels, and a jacuzi. The yacht may be out on charter, aa notice on the gang plank made it clear that privacy would be protected with 24 hour security. We may never know who are illustriuos visitors are but they are sure to be impressed by Los Cristianos as it was at its dazzling best.

 

One Coach Out, One Coach In, But What’s It All About At CD Tenerife

After narrowly swerving one iceberg last weekend the good ship CD Tenerife ripped straight into another with a 3-1 defeat at Celta Vigo B and coach Garcia Tebar felt the chill as he was pushed overboard. In the crazy world of CD Tenerife anything can happen and usually does, losing after being a goal up against ten men and Kiko collecting yellow and red cards in just 20 minutes revived last weeks crisis fever and Monday morning marked the latest departure.

It started so well,home player Warden got a straight red card after just 5 minutes and CDT capitalised with a goal after 8 minutes as Ferran Tacon set up Perona, the ball went in the net but was given as an own goal, coming off Vazquez. We’re not fussy how the ball goes in, that should have been the start of an easy victory but this is CD Tenerife we are talking about. Just after the half hour Jota levelled and 4 minutes later the sharp young forward gave Celta a half time lead.

Into the second half and just after Kiko had come on for Ferran Tacon (above), Jota wrapped up his hat trick, Sergio was again suspect with his positioning but the defence was having a nightmare. Jota is a hot property, he had been with the first team squad at Cartegena the previous night in a game that was abandoned after a linesman was felled by an object from the crowd. Anyway back to the nightmare, Kiko got himself booked and followed up soon after with another caution and was off, the 7th sending off for Tenerife this season to go with the storm of yellow cards.

As soon as the game finished the clock was ticking on Garcia Tebar, at least the club allowed him the flight home before sacking him. In comes Quique Medina coach of the B team, until the end of the season, or at least until he upsets our sensitive players. Our play off rivals all dropped points so the new boss goes into Sundays home game with second placed Lugo knowing we can leap over them – yes we sacked a coach with the team in third position? Bookies probably wont even give odds on what will happen next at CD Tenerife – the only thing we can rely on is the passion and support of the fans. Time for us to dig deep again as we usher in another new charge for promotion.

 

 

The Greatest Story Ever Told Never Loses Its Passion

If credits rolled at the end of The Passion in Adeje “shepherd with shovel” would appear on the honours. As noon approached Roman soldiers shuffled their sandals, the Empress toyed with her snake, even the Roman eagle had a little flutter, and the horses showed their nerves in a less delicate manner.

There has to be some back stage jitters for this annual street theatre extravaganza that re-creates the last days of Christ and his crucifixion. A cast of 300 actors rehearse for months, scenery and costumes are lovingly created, and Calle Grande is transformed to a biblical setting thanks to liberal sprinklings of palm ferns and leaves.

The crowd was bigger than ever this year, 22,000 people lined the street from the church at the top down to the small plaza where Jesus would be nailed to a wooden cross. Press and the local television crews following the scenes as they unfold dress in costume so as to not distract from the emotionally charged story.

Even The Greatest Story Ever Told can benefit from a few tweaks, this year there were more dancers and some extra passages of dialogue, relayed over speakers from head sets worn by the main characters. The key elements were all there in their usual glory, The Last Supper, the garden of Gethsemane, Pontius Pilot’s court room and the market.

The power and realism is a tribute to the hard work of everyone involved, no gory detail is spared from Jesus chained and whipped by the Romans to the graphic nailing of Jesus to the cross before it is hoisted before his mother and Mary Magdalene. As Jesus forgave his captors with his last breath and his close friends wept at his loss, many of the onlookers shed tears too and everyone crowded into the final area was visibly moved as every last drop of emotion was wrung out.

 

Into The Valley, Peaceful And Divine

Fertile is another adjective that The Skids might have added to their lyrics if they had done the Santiago de Teide to Puerto Santiago walk. As talk of drought continues in Tenerife the Barranco del Valle showed how well water can be used to keep agriculture going.

At the top end of this 8 km walk the low dark rolling cloud was sprinkling rain on me as I set out, it felt a bit chilly too and I was glad of my rain jacket. Much of the route is the old Camino Real, one of the earliest paths linking the coast to the hills. Big angular blocks of stone tested my footwork and volcanic stone walling helped to channel me slowly downwards parallel to the main road.

The rain soon fizzled out as I left the brooding cloud behind me and the coat joined the bare essentials in my small rucksack. I soon discovered that this was quite a selection box of teasing trails, the first temptation was a detour of 3.8 kms to El Moledo or a 2.1 km stairway up to Risco Blanco. Making a mental note for a future trip I pushed onwards and down to the lip of the barranco deep below.

Rock stacks to my right were bizarre and fascinating and the path had its own beauty with cactus plants blooming with pink pears. The next signpost offered up Cruz de Los Misioneres, a steep climb up the side of the mountain to a lone white cross at the top, again I had to decline the invitation. A black goat I passed trotted up onto a mound and started a bleated conversation with a friend across the barranco. Tamaimo was now in view to my left and as the path dipped down, the trail crossed the dry barranco bed and I took advantage of a smooth stone to sit and have a snack. The river course may have been dry but since the start of the walk a large pipe running close to the path had gurgled loudly with the water rushing through it.

Cresting a hill I got my first glimpse of the coast and very beautiful it looked. A little further on I noticed several reservoirs, not full but not far off. Pipes running into them were matched by others leading out into well tended plots of bananas and cereal crops, all looking very healthy. Coming down hill two reservoirs looked more like a small marina, the sign here pointed up to the right so I duly obliged only to find myself following a quickly narrowing ledge that was leading to a sheer drop.

Common sense eventually tapped me on the shoulder and I back tracked to the reservoirs and headed around the well protected banana plantations. The track between the towering green enclosures soon turned into a road and my confidence returned as I recognised some landmarks up ahead. The road came out just above the Los Gigantes mirador which was awash with coach parties of tourists. The near four hours had sped by, the transition from rain to hot sun, and the expanse of fertile farmland in the barranco had given me a new understanding of the precarious nature of water supplies on the island. More importantly I had found another stimulating and rewarding trail of wonder and beauty.

 

 

Getting Physical With Pussy At The Beach

Bending and stretching to the music, and that was just the palm trees being whipped into a frenzy by a strong breeze at the promenade near the old Metropolis disco. Arona Maxima Deporte (wasn’t that a character in Gladiator?) was an open air sports zone with a chance for young people to get involved in excercise.

As I approached I could hear the pounding dance beat and sure enough there was a stage with an incredibly energetic instructor coaxing a good sized crowd to strut their stuff. At the far side of the old car park young eager sports fans tried their hand at basketball and tennis, I’m hopeless at both but maybe the super sized rackets could have made me into a champ.

Over on the coast side stalls were pushing massage, healthy eating, and even wind surfing but my eye was distracted by a pretty young Canarian lady promoting a new sports energy drink called Pussy. She seemed blissfully unaware of sniggering British men clamouring for samples of her ice cold Pussy, and has probably never even heard of Mrs Slocombe.

Back at the stage aerobics, step, and disco all mingled, there was even a congaa line that threatened to spill over onto the beach. Passing tourists stopped to watch and some even joined in with a hint of Dad dancing at a weedding. Still chuckling like Beavis and Butthead on speed I headed off to get my swim at a less choppy bit of beach.

 

 

Late Win Papers Over The Cracks For CD Tenerife

As the injury time winner went in for CD Tenerife at home to Toledo, fans and players surged towards each other on the touchline. There were embraces, cheers and an outpouring of joy, all it needed was the theme from Love Story to make it complete. Alas it was just a moment, prompted by sheer relief after another dire performance, rather than reconciliation, the divisions and problems still run deep at the club.

Coach Garcia Tebar wore his best dark suit, he could be forgiven for thinking he was attending his own funeral after reports that the club would sack him if the game ended in defeat. Panic buying on yellow cards set in weeks ago at CD Tenerife and most of the midfield was sidelined, Medina joined Marcos in the engine room but it left very little creative force. Perona returned up front but for much of the first half he drifted wide and interchanged with Farren Tacon.

The spark was again missing from the home side, long hopeful balls were never going to do any damage, especially with the pathetic Aridane as a target man. Perona had a couple of weak long shots but Toledo used a well worn plan by visiting teams to sit back and play off any breaks they got. The big Sanz was their hope up front but neither goalie had much to do in a depressing first half. Even the protests in favour of the coach over his mutinous players were half hearted.

The second half was a bit better as Tenerife created more chances, Bravo should have done better when controlling the ball with his chest only to lose control of his shot. Marcos unleashed a strong shot from distance but the keeper took it well and then Kiko came on for Medina to add punch up front. Rosquete came on for Aridane just in time to see Tarantino depart with a second yellow card. Kiko unsettled the Toledo defence and had a couple of half claims for a penalty as he was bundled over, Rosquete and Kiko headed wide and Perona hooked a shot over the bar.

Toledo took time wasting to new extremes with endless writhing from supposedly injured players, the keeper even sat down in his area at one point to draw attention to another squirming team mate. The 8,595 crowd was steeling itself for a bore draw when in injury time a lovely chip into the box found Pablo Sicilia who stroked the ball into the corner of the net. Three points, third place, and another game ticked off the countdown to the play offs, as silver linings go we will gladly accept that but someone needs to sort out the big dark cloud that still hovers over the Heliodoro.

 

Santiago Del Teide, A Shrine To Rural Pleasure

Apparently 13% of visitors to Tenerife use one of the many walking trails, as I battled my way through 30 staff wielding German hikers and onto the 460 Icod bus from Las Americas I thought that figure could be a bit low. For once I was headed for a more sedate excursion, a good old poke around Santiago del Teide, a village I have passed through many times but never given it the attention it deserves.

Most of the walkers also got off at my stop but transferred straight onto the 355 Titsa mini bus for Masca or headed up onto the Chinyero volcano trail. Left at the main plaza I savoured the cool air and the tranquillity, determined to leave no stone unturned I passed the church of San Fernando Rey and turned into Senora del Valle, home to a rather lovely rural hotel and the Casa del Patio, all laid out on natures finest canvas.

The pine tree covered hills were soft and majestic but a noisy rooster was determined to make his case and as I moved inside the courtyard a couple of squawking parrots in a cage stuck their beaks in – bless. There is a riding centre at the back of the grounds but the horses were having a lay in or getting their oats. Casa del Patio, an old rural house was restored and opened in 2009, perfect timing for the 100th anniversary of the Chinyero eruption, they now have a permanent exhibition which I found fascinating. Outside two sturdy wine presses stand guard, methods have changed these days but Santiago del Teide still produces some memorable wines.

Back past the church and the imposing statue of Guanche Prince Alonso Diaz, the main street was quiet apart from the odd wave of lycra clad cyclists and a convoy of jeeps on their way to Masca. A glance down a side street and an odd structure caught my eye, I had to investigate and found it was a tribute to the local volunteer firemen that had been killed in action. Honour and Glory it proclaimed and a few yards along the bomberos station stands as an ongoing commitment to this service.

My main objective of the day was to walk up the Camino de la Fuente de la Virgen, an archway leading up a rugged path marked with white crosses on the way to a shrine to Our Lady of Lourdes whose statue was blessed and placed next to a spring in 1990. A mere stroll compared to the long walks I have done but one of the most beautiful and emotive climbs I can recall. Each cross had a round sculpted bible scene at its base and although plain and stark each cross was packed with cultural and religious significance.

The path was quite steep and winding and the wisps of cloud that flit by in this part of Tenerife revealed a clear hot sky. I was going to take a quick breather half way up but noticed the stones were alive with armies of scuttling ants. The shrine was hewn into the rock and decorated with flowers and had some small stools so visitors could rest and contemplate. Just next door was an alter and a large bell, an oil drum brimming with foliage and discarded candles showed that the shrine was lovingly tended and used for acts of worship. A discarded Spanish teen mag suggested that younger worshippers sometimes scampered up here to contemplate their own idols. As for the spring, that looked like it had been dry for a long time and not just during this current parched spell.

The views down over Santiago del Teide were wonderful, not that high but revealing of the landscape that was carved out by volcanoes and now is being opened up further to the east by the new ring road and tunnels through the mountain. It’s a good job I’m not easily spooked as the bushes were twitching as large lizards went about their business, quite a nice spot for them with so many ants on tap. My descent was slow as I drank in every last sensation from this special route, and back in the village I relaxed with a coffee and cake at one of several delightful and friendly bars.

Wake Up CD Tenerife, There’s Work To Do

Most people put their clocks forward on Saturday night but CD Tenerife put theirs back a year to the painful days of relegation football. Coming on the heels of the home surrender to SS Reyes this was a worrying 2-0 loss at the bottom placed team Leganes.

Kiko, Llorente, and Cristobal (below) were back in the starting line up but there was no real urgency and Tarantino got away with some sloppy marking thanks to a brave intervention from Sergio. The defence was asleep again when Toninoturned and chipped a shot justover the bar but he improved on that after 16 minutes when he spotted Sergio loitering on the edge of his box and chipped the ball over him and into the net.

Zazo was getting stuck in and needed treatment aftercoming off owrse in a clash with the home goalie but most players struggled to break sweat. Navarro could have increased the lead on the half hourr, his free kick only just cleared the CDT bar. The second half opened with the killer goal, Cristobal stood off his attacker on the right and was missing when Victor nipped in for a free header to make it 2-0. Aridane came on for Ferran Tacon, and Bravo for Marcos but it didn-t make any difference.

Sergio had to make a great stop with his legs after Tonino waltzed through the retreating CDT defence. Loro hand balled and was off for a second yellow, add to that yellows for Zazo and Kike Lopez and an injury for Chechu, that means the whole midfield will miss the Toledo home game. This was a terrible showing by a CDT side with one eye on the play offs and no pride in their play.

Montaña Roja Is Too Good To Miss

Looking down on the beaches of El Medano and ducking as the planes came and went from Reina Sofia airport, I heaved a contented sigh as an epic six and a half hour walk drew to a close. This was the latest of the Arona council free guided walks but my guide and the other 19 walkers bailed out just short of the climb to the top of Montaña Roja.

I had feared a repeat of the previous day’s calima and wild winds but a perfect clear and sunny day dawned as I met the other walkers at Las Galletas. The early part of the trek was a mix of raw nature and rampant development as we followed the coastal path through Costa del Silencio taking a few short cuts through holiday and residential complexes. The coast around and beyond Westhaven Bay is beautiful and rugged and it seemed that every spare outcrop had been claimed by a keen fisherman. As we rounded a corner we got a full frontal view of Montaña Amarilla. If I told anyone unfamiliar with Tenerife that we have a Yellow Mountain they might think I also believe that the moon is made of cheese, but the evidence was there in the distinctive tinge of the rocks as the rich turquoise sea lapped gently at the pebble beach.

This area of the coast is being protected and nurtured as a special site for quality diving with strict limits on the prime spots where Lime Urchin, Spotted Burrfish, Grey Triggerfish, and many more wonders mingle in their watery treasure chest. There’s more information on the area and the project at this website.

It was lovely to admire but the steep ascent up Montaña Amarilla was a tough test on the legs with rewarding views from the top. Coming down the other side Amarilla Golf and Golf del Sur loomed up in the distance but we had a snack stop on the large pebbled beach and enjoyed a light breeze. There were already a few camper vans sprinkled around but nothing compared to the motorcade that will swarm down for Semana Santa – Easter Week.

Skirting the two golf courses and San Miguel marina we were soon back on the concrete promenade passing San Blas before diving down to the beach again. Rock pools were teaming with young human life as well as sea creatures as we passed Playa Grande and hit Los Abrigos. Here the first dissent started to show as some walkers wanted to catch a bus to El Medano, thankfully the majority realised that this was advertised as a walk so we passed through the delightful Los Abrigos. Some of my Armada Sur football friends were sat outside a bar and teased me with their ice cold pints of Dorada – tempting but the taps would still be full later.

Coming out of Los Abrigos Montaña Roja loomed larger and nearer as we trudged along the sandy beach and onto the coastal path outside the banana plantations. Lots of different bird species hang out in El Medano and whilst a few shy and elusive visitors like the Corredor left us with just a snatch of bird song I did get a shot of this Whimbrel (Zarapito Trinador) on holiday from South America.

Veering away from the main road and kicking our way through the sand we eventually headed back to the camp site by the main road where the others swarmed on a bus stop ready to head back to Los Cristianos. Our travels had already gone beyond five hours but Montaña Roja was advertised as a key point of the walk and I had only seen the 171 metre high peak once before. I had water left in my bottle and one last smelly squashed salami roll so in my best stubborn mood I stomped off to find the main path I needed.

 

As the path curled around the base of the mountain and headed upwards, my legs were cursing me but the views were already getting even better. Only a few people passed coming down as I kept to the more rugged side of the corkscrew path. Within 30 minute I was at the peak by the concrete stack and admiring the busy airport and the beaches peppered with bodies, some of them nude at La Tejita. Looking back Montaña Amarilla seemed a long way off, the jagged coastline etched in my memory. A few photos and a gulp of water and I was picking my way back down, this time turning onto the path across the main beach and into the heart of El Medano just in time to catch the 4pm bus home. Definitely worth the extra effort.

Will The Real CD Tenerife Please Stand Up

Expect The Unexpected should be the club motto for CD Tenerife. Once again we were set up to expect a convincing home win, this time over lowly SS Reyes but poor team selection, poor tactics, and a poor attitude saw our surprised visitors take a 2-0 win home with them.

An early evening defeat for Real Oviedo should have fuelled the desire of the players but apart from a reasonable first 20 minutes CD Tenerife showed few ideas and even less determination. Cristobal was suspended so Chechu filled the right back role, the out of form Loro started again, and Aridane (below) was the lone striker, top scorer Perona was again left on the bench.

Tenerife only had one real chance at goal in the first half and that was spurned by Aridane after he beat the keeper and had a free shot but he hit it wide. Reyes took their only chance well on a quick break, Tarantino was out of position in the centre of defence and Sergio got himself in a tangle with Llorente to present Portilla with a gift. Llorente had to be replaced after 33 minutes due to a muscle pull,Medina came on and slotted into a centre back position with Tarantino moving over to left back.

In the midst of all this the midfield looked weak and Marcos had a quiet game while Ferran Tacon was a passenger. Half times mood was as black as the night sky but CDT came back out with their headlights set on dim. Perona finally saw some action after 56 minutes but coach Garcia Tebar took off Zazo, one of the few players showing any hunger. There was another strange call when replaced Tacon, two players that have faded as the season has progressed – it would have been nice to see Kiko added to the front line to add some hustle.

Maybe there was a way back but Reyes slammed the door on that with Portilla netting from another breakaway. The 9,064 crowd was stunned and some of the fair weather fans tempted in with cheap tickets were tempted back out of the stadium. Kike looked frustrated as his low cross went begging after the visiting goalie fumbled the ball. It was depressing stuff, Perona picked up a yellow card that keeps him out of theLeganesgame away on Sunday. The only thing to cheer was when Sergio dribbled the ball up the field to clear it.

Maybe complacency is creeping in with Castilla out of reach at the top and our play off spot almost secure. This is the time when coach Tebar should be earning his wage by motivating players, momentum is a great weapon to have going into the all important play offs.