Bah humbug but I still can’t resist the pre Christmas build up in Tenerife so with the lovely Karen on board my Titsa sleigh we set off for Santa Cruz and La Laguna. Where to start was the big question but the temporary ice rink in La Laguna was high on my list, unlike the Santa Cruz version last year this was more accessible with a viewing area inside and a couple of food and drink stalls. The skaters looked keen and it brought back fond memories of mini British ice rinks visited in my ice hockey watching days.

Outside in Plaza del Cristo the market was doing a good trade as we headed into the city centre via the back streets. Was that marching band music wafting in the air, turning a corner there was a long procession headed by the statue of the virgin, my memory finally cranked into action and I recalled that it was a holiday for the Day of the Immaculate Conception. We followed the parade up to the Iglesia de la Concepcion, due to the Christmas lights strung across the streets one man had the important job of lifting the decorations with a pole to avoid the virgin leaving havoc in her wake.

Catching the tram back to Santa Cruz a tour seemed a good idea, first stop Plaza Weyler and on to Parque Garcia Sanabria to view the delightful plants and flowers and to have a dizzy spin in the kids playground – what do you mean, it’s meant for children?

A quick stop at CC Parque Bulevar allowed me to introduce Karen to the Carnaval museum, once again the shopping centre was almost deserted – the whole of Santa Cruz seemed very quiet for a Saturday so close to Christmas. A port detour was next on the agenda, a couple of big cruise ships were moored on the far side including Albatross which will be popping into Los Cristianos in 2013. The gleaming, wealth oozing Attessa 1V caught my eye and cutting across the marina a Polish yacht Energa looked bright and sporty. An old friend Stavros S Niarchos loomed up ahead, part of the Tall Ships Trust it takes on volunteer crews for adventure voyages, we got an invite on board for a tour, very majestic and imposing. On the quayside the huge stage structure was taking shape for the Christmas night (25^th) free classical concert with the Tenerife Symphony Orchestra.

With evening coming in we headed back to Plaza de España where a small commotion was taking place, Popeye, Fidel Castro, and Michael Jackson were playing second fiddle to a noisy group of Carnaval murgas, the Zeta Zetas were celebrating their 10^th birthday by the lake with a few fire crackers and some kazoo inspired musical backing. Their jolly mascot look familiar to me as last Sunday he popped up at the Heliodoro stadium for CD Tenerife’s home game, this time unlike myself he was not wearing a CDT shirt.

One of the main points of the northern pilgrimage was to see the Christmas lights but as we headed up Calle Castillo the lights suspended above us seemed reluctant to join the shop windows in lighting up the darkness. At least the Canarian parliament building was open with their belen (nativity scene) pulling in the punters, we filed past the lavish landscape and were suitably impressed. Back outside the decorations flickered into life spot on 6.30 pm, not bad but a bit square with just a bare hint of the festive season.

On our route back to the bus station we had to pass La Noria, a popular late night food and drink area and their star spangled display left us oohing with admiration. It was still noticeable at the bus station there was no wild shopping scrum down, our bus queue was short and the journey quick. Maybe people are leaving shopping until later this year, Reyes (Kings Day) January 6 is the main event so the momentum will build nearer the time but we enjoyed more than enough festive fun to fill any pillow or stocking.

Rising above Santiago del Teide scorched brown pine trees were a dramatic reminder of the recent fires in Tenerife but nestled alongside them their greener cousins stood proud, nature is already fighting back. I don’t need much excuse to make the Icod run, the Titsa bus trip from Las Americas bus station is always a favourite, climbing above Adeje the film crews were warming up for another days car wrecking for Fast & Furious 6. For me it was a more sedate pace and good to see clear sunny skies as the bus cruised into Icod.

My main mission was to visit the newly opened Hotel San Agustin. I soon found it in the main street and as the music speakers tempted shoppers with a mix of Swan Lake and Latino dance I put down a mental marker and went for a mooch around. Plaza de Andres de Lorenzo – Caceres was set up for the Fiesta Santismo Cristo del Calvario, coloured bunting formed archways along the main walks and one of the best stage sets I have seen dominated one side of the plaza. Right on schedule a Red Admiral from the Butterfly Park did a mid air display to complete the scene.

The Hotel turned out to be very impressive, they even had CD Tenerife fixture cards on the reception, but more of that at a later date, next on my list was a bus up to Santa Barbara about 4 kms above Icod to see my friends George and Ingrid at Artlandya the teddy bear and doll museum. This time I got off at the top of the village to see the two churches but found a surprise in the nearby plaza. An artillery canon was set up as a monument looking out over the Garachico coast in the distance. Closer inspection showed it was an English design built in Spain by Vickers in 1920, originally carried on the navy ship Galicia it was retired to San Andres just beyond Santa Cruz in 2006. For the technically minded the canon weighs 8,738 kms can shoot to 21,600 metres away and pounds out four shots a minute.

Walking down to Artlandya I spent a pleasant few hours tasting home made food and drink with George and Ingrid, their former finca was bursting with flowers as always and the lizards were scuttling across the paths.George gave me a lift back down into Icod and I jumped out at the smaller church on the edge of town to grab a photo of the wonderful fiesta decorations outside. A young couple were posing for wedding shots a few days after their big event, it certainly made a stunning combination.

With impeccable timing my bus to the south was waiting for me, another pleasant trip with a stop off at Tejina to have a drink and food with some more friends – a great end to a fun day of new discoveries.

Find a bit of beach and a stretch of water to swim in, that seemed to be most peoples over riding thought as I headed into Candelaria from Las Caletillas. The sea was a bit lively but calmer than the four metre high waves of two day before and it was another scorcher that even the breeze couldn’t totally disguise. Heading down the slip road off the TF 1 motorway brings you straight into the heart of the old town and the main plaza but approaching along the coastal road and weaving in and out of the small port and taking the old steps down to sea level gave me a nice feel for the history of this popular area.

Looking across from little quayside the waves were rolling in lustily just in front of the ornate basilca church and the closer I got the more imposing the tower looked. The tight street leading into the plaza was packed with souvenir shops – some of them rather tacky, it seems you can buy the black madonna as everything from a doll to a bottle opener. The row of Guanche kings with their backs to the sea is always impressive but they stand firm oblivious to the thousands of people posing away in their shadow. The small beach behind them was almost totally eaten away by the tide but there were still a few people sun bathing, later in the day it was closed off as the tide increased in power.

Heading back in the shade of a side street it became obvious that big efforts had been made to make sure that Candelaria doesn’t just dwell in the past, a large new cultural centre led onto the main Avenida de Los Menceyes where a large modern sports centre sits opposite the Punta Larga commercial centre. After a quick inspection of the sculptures of the Guanches, a modern twist on the plaza theme, I took a long cool drink in the Punta Larga. I sat outside the Forum Cafe under their large awning and was surprised to find it had three sets of piping inlaid in the roof that sspurted out clouds of perfumed mist every 20 seconds. I know I was a bit sweaty at this stage but ater 20 minutes snacking I left smelling like an air stewardess.

The plan was to catch the Titsa bus down to El Medano for some more fun but after a fruitless wait at the bus stop it became clear that the bus wasn’t coming – cancelled, an old timetable, or maybe it only goes down the motorway and stops at the Candelaria turn off – despite what the timetable says. Never mind, a scramble up the bank and I was overlooking the TF1 motorway and could see the bridge I needed to cross and catch a bus southward. Closer inspection showed this was a discarded bridge, the central part still standing and isolated with no walkway leading on or off. A few dead end paths and back street detours later I found the new connected bridge and got over the flowing traffic

Oh well just another adventure and at least I got to see one of the amazing artily decorated bus stops up close – that’s another story to chase but by now my thoughts were on a cold Dorada back in Los Cristianos.

Often overlooked in favour of its more historically famous neighbour, Las Caletillas was the first stop on my long overdue return to Candelaria. I couldn’t have asked for a better day, clear blue skies, 31 degrees on the digital readouts, and a strong refreshing breeze blowing in off the sea. It’s probably close to four years since my last call, I was impresssed then as work had started to install two small sandy beach areas along the rocky coastline, that impression was boosted by what I saw this time.

The whole stretch has bright modern feel with new apartments and a nice variety of bars and restaurants on the seafront road. The promenade encourages strolling, the concrete path and wooden slatted lane conjure up thoughts of El Medano, some council workers were busy swabbing the decking and polishing the metal barriers that guard the short drop to the beach. Protective breakwaters curl out into the sea and embrace the new beaches, showers and more decking make sure swimmers and sun worshippers are spoilt for choice.

The beaches are either side of a small headland giving them different views and contrasting conditions. The near side was much calmer but the far side had a red flag to warn of rampant waves crashing in – although that didn’t seem to deter the sun bathers. Looking up the east coast the TF 1 motorway rises on its way to Santa Cruz and below the thermal power plant is a stark reminder of how close the capital city is.

Las Caletillas wasn’t very busy but where is at the moment, at weekends it must be quite a magnet for the big city dwellers to come down and relax by the sea. It’s gotta be a popular place to live for anyone needing to work in Santa Cruz, just a 20 minute drive, judging by the tidal wave of school kids sweeping down the banks from the motorway later on, there are a lot of young families settled here. From my selfish perspective I just like the layout and the combination of great unspoilt views down the coast along with the new bathing spots.

There was almost a queue to meet Pope John Paul the second in La Laguna, the fine new statue by Czeslaw Dzwigaj had only been unveiled the day before but a few of Tenerife’s Polish community were eager to get a photo with the main man. Karol Wojtyla had been a decent goalkeeper back in his youth but I don’t think that’s why USOPAL the Polish association commissioned and paid for the statue. It’s a nice addition to Plaza del Doctor Olivera and appropriately next to the iconic church Iglesia de la Concepcion.

So began another northern tour of discovery, the 110 direct Titsa bus to Santa Cruz had whizzed me up from Los Cristianos in under an hour and the tram ride to La Laguna was as smooth as ever. Wandering a few yards down into Calle Cruz de Candelaria my curiosity led me into El Cinematografo, a small shop packed with DVDs of classic films. I know everyone downloads these days but collectors still want to own copies of greats from Clark Gable, Randolph Scott and an amazing collection of old westerns. The box sets are wonderful, how about all 6 Gordon Scott Tarzan films, or 20 classic sci fi and fantasy movies, and they had a music section with CDs from Yes and The Alan Parsons Project – don’t think I will be lost for present ideas in future.

After a quick check around the main streets I hopped on the tram and back to Santa Cruz to tick a few more calls off my list. The port was quite busy with Independence Of The Seas docked, another nice top up for the bars and restaurants, the week is bringing 22,000 cruise visitors in total. At several points I saw Inside Tenerife the new free glossy colour magazine co-produced by the port authority and Santa Cruz council and aimed at cruise visitors, looks good, plenty of info on La Laguna as well as the capital and guides to culture and food stops. Everyone is frantically trying to tempt people into their shops and bars which means bargains for visitors, I had a basic but nice three course meal for 7 euros in Cafe Dachita at the top end of Calle Castillo.

One of the days main calls was the Expohostel & Gastronomia show at the Recinto Ferial, mainly aimed at the catering and hospitality trade but well worth a look as it was free to get in. One of the first sites to greet me was a huge upside down gutted pig in a glass case, part of the Egatesa stall, CD Tenerife fans are used to seeing their advert on the back of our season ticket – try a gutted Pio next event chaps. I was impressed by the greeen cow on top of their stand – maybe heights make it ill. There was plenty of food stalls, the cakes looked lovely but they were a bit mean on the freebies, it was quiet and stall holders seemed to be touring other peoples stalls and sharing the goodies out. Shame really as I might have been shopping for a bulk order of fancy cakes and spring water for the Armada Sur summer BBQ – never mind we will have to do with burgers and beer.

On a football theme a couple of falcons were being shown off by the pest control company that protects the pitch at the Heliodoro Stadium, one of the birds stops us from being continually crapped on – well at least by the pigeons. One of the centre pieces of the show was a slow cooking contest with five chefs facing off at a row of cooking stations watched from rows of bleacher seating. It was all modern cuisine designed to show off as much of the plate as possible rather than cover it with food – and not a single Gordon Ramsey style tourets outbreak in sight.

On the way back to the bus station I popped into El Tanque, one of my favourite and weirdest art places. The former oil tank, 20 metres high was built in 1929 but after being pensioned off was turned into a cultural space 15 years ago. Inside there is just a series of steel girders supporting the roof and some spotlights are all that break the darkness. On this latest visit four sets of video art were projected on the inner metal skin with a series of cushions to sit on in the centre of the tank. On my first visit there was a circle of huge gongs suspended from the ceiling with fluffy cod ball type drumsticks to beat them with. The acoustics in El Tanque are amazing,they sometimes have live theatre and music – it’s very bizarre, the latest display is open 5 to 8pm in the week and 11 am to 4 pm on Saturdays and always free entry. One day I expect to go in and find hundreds of dormant Cybermen. El Tanque has just been declared a site of cultural interest. Time to catch the bus back to the relative sanity of the south.

Apparently 13% of visitors to Tenerife use one of the many walking trails, as I battled my way through 30 staff wielding German hikers and onto the 460 Icod bus from Las Americas I thought that figure could be a bit low. For once I was headed for a more sedate excursion, a good old poke around Santiago del Teide, a village I have passed through many times but never given it the attention it deserves.

Most of the walkers also got off at my stop but transferred straight onto the 355 Titsa mini bus for Masca or headed up onto the Chinyero volcano trail. Left at the main plaza I savoured the cool air and the tranquillity, determined to leave no stone unturned I passed the church of San Fernando Rey and turned into Senora del Valle, home to a rather lovely rural hotel and the Casa del Patio, all laid out on natures finest canvas.

The pine tree covered hills were soft and majestic but a noisy rooster was determined to make his case and as I moved inside the courtyard a couple of squawking parrots in a cage stuck their beaks in – bless. There is a riding centre at the back of the grounds but the horses were having a lay in or getting their oats. Casa del Patio, an old rural house was restored and opened in 2009, perfect timing for the 100^th anniversary of the Chinyero eruption, they now have a permanent exhibition which I found fascinating. Outside two sturdy wine presses stand guard, methods have changed these days but Santiago del Teide still produces some memorable wines.

Back past the church and the imposing statue of Guanche Prince Alonso Diaz, the main street was quiet apart from the odd wave of lycra clad cyclists and a convoy of jeeps on their way to Masca. A glance down a side street and an odd structure caught my eye, I had to investigate and found it was a tribute to the local volunteer firemen that had been killed in action. Honour and Glory it proclaimed and a few yards along the bomberos station stands as an ongoing commitment to this service.

My main objective of the day was to walk up the Camino de la Fuente de la Virgen, an archway leading up a rugged path marked with white crosses on the way to a shrine to Our Lady of Lourdes whose statue was blessed and placed next to a spring in 1990. A mere stroll compared to the long walks I have done but one of the most beautiful and emotive climbs I can recall. Each cross had a round sculpted bible scene at its base and although plain and stark each cross was packed with cultural and religious significance.

The path was quite steep and winding and the wisps of cloud that flit by in this part of Tenerife revealed a clear hot sky. I was going to take a quick breather half way up but noticed the stones were alive with armies of scuttling ants. The shrine was hewn into the rock and decorated with flowers and had some small stools so visitors could rest and contemplate. Just next door was an alter and a large bell, an oil drum brimming with foliage and discarded candles showed that the shrine was lovingly tended and used for acts of worship. A discarded Spanish teen mag suggested that younger worshippers sometimes scampered up here to contemplate their own idols. As for the spring, that looked like it had been dry for a long time and not just during this current parched spell.

The views down over Santiago del Teide were wonderful, not that high but revealing of the landscape that was carved out by volcanoes and now is being opened up further to the east by the new ring road and tunnels through the mountain. It’s a good job I’m not easily spooked as the bushes were twitching as large lizards went about their business, quite a nice spot for them with so many ants on tap. My descent was slow as I drank in every last sensation from this special route, and back in the village I relaxed with a coffee and cake at one of several delightful and friendly bars.

It wouldn’t be a Tenerife project if it ran to schedule so it’s hardly surprising that the new Garachico marina is evolving in it’s own sweet time. Back for another look just before Christmas it had moved on but still looked a lot short of the finished article.

The project started in November 2008 and the works board still proudly claims it will be finished by 10^th September 2011. There is a lot riding on the 33,150,000 euro marina, it’s seen as the driving force that will boost the economy of the former capital and main trading port for Tenerife. A huge volcanic lava flow wiped that out but as a small consolation left the spit of volcanic rock just off the coast, it’s now on most tourists must see tick list.

Anyway back to the job in hand, it has since been announced that the marina is nearly finished but the fancy last touches mean it won’t be ready to use until the summer. Looking across, the basics seem in place including the pile driven black metal posts that will secure the pontoons for boats to park up to. Down in Los Cristianos the adding of pontoons and underlaid fuel pipes took several months and that was on a smaller scale.

There was a flurry of activity unfolding before my eyes but the JCB digger was a sight to behold. Had it been set on fire, dipped in the sea to cool off and then left to rust? What a state it looked and it made noises to match as it clanked, screeched, and clanked along. There are plans for a new hotel near the marina, the sheer beauty and history of Garachico will make it a popular stop off point for private boats and the proposed pleasure boat trips will also gain from the rugged and towering coastline.

On the day of my visit the sea was decidedly choppy, reaching the natural channels in the rocks that make a superb natural swimming spot the chain and keep out notice were up. The warning seemed to just arouse people’s sense of adventure and there was quite a crowd along the rocky crests watching the hardy swimmers riding the surges as the tide swept up the channels and sprayed mist over onlookers.

Crossing over and into the main plaza there was a much more sedate scene, sunshine and shade shared the quiet well laid out square, even the bandstand and snack kiosk was running at half pace. A statue of Simon Bolivar, founder of Simonlivia (just testing, Bolivia) looked at the scene thoughtfully, maybe wondering about the finished look of the marina.

A cooling breeze had struck up and with a long way to go back to the south , I caught the next bus to Icod de Los Vinos to retrace my journey. It’s an uplifting thought that on my next visit I should be able to have a little tour around the open and thriving marina – I hope they save a little corner for that ancient digger.

Santa gets around a bit but even he had a smug happy look at the restaurant window on a crisp, sunny Vilaflor morning. Neal and Karen, the Bournemouth Section of the Armada Sur had joined me for a jolly jaunt into the hills and after a 40 minute Titsa bus trip to Vilaflor we grabbed a coffee outside a local hostelry half way up the main road from our crossroads drop off.

The combination of the warm sun and slight chill in the air fitted nicely with the peace and quiet, even on this main road up to Mount Teide traffic was sparse-mainly lycra clad cyclists testing their muscles. Just across from the bar is a mirador where we took in the fantastic view down into the heart of this sedate town that’s largely untouched by time. Turning down into the road through the jumble of houses we were soon in the plaza where the two churches sit side by side.

Hermano Pedro the local born goatherd was the first Tenerife religious leader to be made a saint and his image is everywhere. The Iglesia de San Pedro Apostle was eerily cold but full of beauty, I ventured up onto the creaking balcony which houses 21 cabinets showing the life history of the great man. Back out in the sun, walkers milled around and picked up guide leaflets for their long treks. Heading further down into town orange trees groaned under the weight of fruit and pots of poinsettias made the main street look even more wonderous.

A detour took us to another micro church where a local was swinging a chicken as he got out of his truck, one swift smack and this rooster had crowed his last. Back at the crossroads near the statue of Hermano Pedro we found a sun soaked patio bar and snacked as we awaited one of the very sporadic buses. The mini Titsa turned up and we veered onto the TF 21 for a twisting, turning one handed rally drive down the corkscrew road. It was a bit hairy but the driver was very relaxed as he chatted to another passenger, we noticed a pink cuddly toy tucked in his storage locker – maybe that was to console white knuckle passengers.

Granadilla arrived with more level roads and after a short wait we caught the 484 bus to Las Galletas for a near hour journey through San Miguel, Aldea Blanco, and Las Chafiras. The sun was sinking low as we strolled around the coast, the tide was about as low as I’ve seen it there, and we were a little low after checking the late newspaper to find we weren’t rich thanks to the El Gordo Christmas lottery. On the big plus side the marina looked lovely in the dying embers of the day and it has been a good tour. Now what’s this Christmas thing everyone is talking about – should I be making some sort of preparations?

Everybody has a story to tell and I love to hear them. Social media can ping news around the world in seconds but there’s still no substitute for talking to people and finding out how rich and interesting their lives are. Tenerife is an amazing place for paths to cross and Santa Cruz always rewards me with some surprise finds on my frequent visits up to the capital.

Take last Saturday, my intention was a pre christmas tour of decorations and nativity scenes but I found loads more. The docks are always a rich source and even a scan of the daily papers for ships passing through merely scratches the surface. Cruise ships have been coming in mob handed lately but it was two wooden masts that excited me, peeping over the fencing put up to hide the road widening of Via Litoral. Heading across the quay side I stopped to inspect two cordoned off old fishing boats rescued from the ravages of the sea. Ripped open, splintered, and covered in old sea life, they wouldn’t see another voyage but they had clearly had some fine adventures. Up ahead I found the Stavros S Niarchos (above) proudly flying the flag for the Tall Ships Adventures.

Hailing a couple of crew members they broke off from their spit and polishing to tell me a little about the ship and dug out a publicity brochure to fill in some of the gaps. Basically it’s a training ship for team building and confidence for those wanting a holiday that tests them against the elements. Based in Santa Cruz from November to April they take on paying crew for each 7 to 18 night voyage, the Captain’s Christmas Special was due to depart the next day, hence the frantic polishing, skirting around the islands for a week. Crews have to pitch in and learn to steer, set rigging 100 feet up, and stand watch as well as cleaning the ship during “happy hour” well it is scrubbing to music. As I walked away I could hear the reassuring creak of the bough and the strain of the mooring rope.

At a little jutting extremity of the quay I noticed a dark brooding iron vessel low in the water so edged a little nearer, the military style uniforms advised caution so I snapped from a discreet distance and angle. Just as well, turns out the Alcaravan is a Spanish customs ship. no lingering here I thought and anyway a jaunty modern three master with a Swedish flag was beckoning me onthe other side of the port. Passing the main gates on the way around I noticed several scribbled notes pinned on seeking passage to Africa and South America. They all offered to work their way with skills such as cooking and cleaning but one proclaimed themselves as an entertainer and clown. In my mind I could see how that skill might not be quite what was called for when the ship was being tossed around in a raging storm.

Swerving round to the other side of the docks I found the Alva a 1939 built cargo ship from Stockholm conveted to a school ship, lessons at sea seem quite popular. This one when fully rigged has 600 square metres of sail. Inside the 44 metre long ship there are 15 cabins with all mod cons. I grabbed a quick word with the captain and it seems that they too are based in Santa Cruz for a few months to take out 30 upper school students at a time on regular learning trips complete with teachers to ensure they continue their normal lessons. The Tall Ship Adventures were quite expensive, upward of 400 pounds excluding flights to Tenerife, but Swedish law means the students can only be charged for meals, the rest comes out of normal teaching budgets. With my curiosity satisfied and some more leaflets to read I waved goodbye with the pungent smell of the newly applied deck varnish stinging my nose.

Oh well that was probably enough for one day but back in the centre of Calle Castillo I saw a motorbike draped with world maps and flags stood near a local cafe and moved in to read some of the press cuttings stuck to the bike. The roaring steed was clearly on a epic round the world journey, up stepped the owner a Russian adventurer Yarets Vladimir Aleckseevich. Pointing to a sign he explained that he was trying to become the first deaf mute to motorbike around the world. The following “conversation” was a delicate mix of sign language, pointing, and flicking through his extensive catalogues of photos and postcards. Blimey this old Russian had certainly got around a bit, not an easy task with his limitations. What an amazing chap, you can see more about his journey at his website. I got the distinct impression that this was an open ended journey that would carry on until Yarets reached the end of his own personal road, good luck to you sir.

Finally with the nativity’s visited, the timbers shivered, and the miles clocked it was time for my own more modest journey, back down south to Los Cristianos.

Calm seas lapping at volcanic slabs, shingle dragging lazily along the sea bed, sandstone sculpted by time and nature, and fishing villages full of traditional delights. Another fine walk, this time on the east coast of Tenerife, just a short distance and a world away from the TF 1 motorway heading up north.

Los Cristianos was bristling with activity on this Saturday morning as groups of keen walkers flexed their maps, laced up their boots, and scanned the sky for tell tale signs of good or bad weather. I joined some friends for the brief convoy to Arico and the Tajao turn off, I don’t think I have seen a village so blessed with tempting fish restaurants and bars. After a coffee launch at Bar Rocas we headed part way up the slip road before plunging down the rocky pathway where eroded sandstone shapes towered over us. The sun was set fair in the clear sky and the path soon opened up onto the beach just beyond a peg shaped stack marking a small cove.

The sea shimmered and the suface looked like glass broken only at remote outcrops where lone fishermen tried their luck, it was such a lovely setting they probably weren’t too concerned if they got a bite or not, the tranquility was reward enough. Scaling the brow of a hill we could see piles of slate to one side and families playing in rock pools down at coast level. Further along an organised camp site looked neat and tidy with small cabins and motor homes stretching inland, other had settled near the waters edge using natural shelter from the rocks to make an impromptu chalet.

Each new climb was greeted with further views of rocky fingers protruding into the sea and volcanic patterns that would make any artist envious. After a while a distant church loomed into view with a sprawling village ahead of it, this was La Jaca. A few early afternoon locals sat outside their homes enjoying the cool breeze, the small crescent shaped harbour was a perfect place to stop to raid our water and sandwiches. The fishing boats hugged the back wall and a protective rail and metal steps into the sea were modern additions to encourage swimming, and a shrine to the Virgen de los Pobres (virgin of the poor)Â was well tended with flowers Fed and watered we moved on over the hill and carefully crossed a concrete damm where a barranco met the incoming sea. Up the other side we were in La Listada and were drawn to the church (Iglesia de la Virgen de Los Pobres) local families greeted us warmly and one sent a small boy to unlock the church so we could look inside. Outside Poinsettia (the christmas plant) burnt brightly, a perfect finishing touch.

Abades lay further ahead and the wind turbines whirred gently up near the motorway, for us it was time to retrace our steps with a few variations. Going higher up this time we joined a roughly pebbled road that only seemed to serve a few large houses. They all seemed to have big alsations straining at the leash through the gates – maybe they had smelled my turkey rolls. Pushing on the return trip was quicker and well timed as we saw a few clouds rolling in from the west. Just before we reached our starting point I noticed the shipwrecked Russian boat, Runaway Serf, that has been in the Canarian news for the last few months. It looked a bit of a rust bucket but its hull proudly displayed names of calls on the way from Moscow. Strassburg, Geneva,Lisbon and Cadiz had all been visited but the last name New York could prove a port too far – especially as motor is awaiting repair by local helpers. Russian journalist Andrei Novoselov is living on board and hasn’t even got any desert island discs to listen to.

Anyway back at Bar Rocas a busy afternoon was underway, the upstairs restaurant, highly recomended by some of my friends, was filling up and this Tajao crossroads seemed quite a focal point. After three hours of brisk walking the Dorada was very welcome, I will certainly pass this way again – maybe I can cadge a boat lift to New York!