It may be just 115 metres high but Montaña Chayofita opens windows onto Los Cristianos . It´s past, and ever evolving present and future are put into glorious perspective. Accessed from the track opposite Parque Santiago 6 , the collapsed volcanic cone has a clear rising circular path.

The table top Roque del Conde is the 1001 metre inland guardian at the southern end of Tenerife. The Arona outdoor pool, and sports centre  look welcoming from the elevated position as the modern snaking Green Mile Bridge seems like a Scalextric circuit as it vaults the bypass to Playa de Las Americas. Of course the sea is soon calling as the path rises to reveal the ferry port and Playa de Los Cristianos as it stretches away to the foot of Montaña Guaza. The skyline has changed dramitcally as hotels and apartments have marched out from the fishing community.

In times of crisis the ferry port has been a vital artery to the islands of La Gomera, El Hierro, and La Palma. Often it¨s summer forest fires that need help but the recent volcnic eruption of Teneguia  on La Palma has required a constant stream of diverse emergency support services. Currently debate centres on the need for an alternative port at Fonsalia, the west coast closest point between Tenerife and La Gomera. Others favour expansion of Los Cristianos.

All is calm below on the 700 metre long Playa Las Vistas. A rock peninsula with fountain is a popular landmark but planning follies are close at hand. A half built mansion has scarred the mountian for decades, and a recent white elephant complete with crane defies logic and coastal protection laws. The long established sandy coloured Los Torres twin towers and the sky blue Mare Nostrum Resort pop up on many a holiday snap.

The mountain path comes full circle before dipping down and giving views of another modern addition, Arona Court, an imposing sight in front of the Golf Las Americas course. Back in the base of the cone, modern gives way to ancient as the black rocks reach out from across the centuries. A service road to the half mansion screams  private property, next to a newer official Arona council sign proclaiming Montaña Chayofita Camino (walk) , one of many contradictions to the areas status. Back in 2013 I watched a horse based challenge on the mountain road involving sortija type jousting to spear overhead metal rings.

Whatever your outlook, Montaña Chayofita is quite an eye opener and is like spinning a rack of old postcards of Los Cristianos.

Green fingers were restored to good health for “the gardener” at Plaza de las Flores in Guimar. As sculptures don´t get frost bite, a previously chipped hand was glad of some wrapping to ensure a return to blooming pride. The fountain was pouring and a good scattering of visitors took time out on the benches. Among the well trimmed greenery, dogs were discouraged from leaving their mark.

It was a step off point for me involving the recently improved Valle de Guimar Titsa bus network. A scenic zig zag ride down to Candelaria racked up plenty of new ideas for walks and visits. The Guimar link 127 route crossed the TF1 motorway and mestled in Plaza de La Villa de Teror, a short stride from the beaches and the Plaza de Basillica to check on some more stone casualties.

Constant powerful waves had eroded the ground from under four of the statues of the Guanche kings at the end of 2020 but now restoration was underway at a cost of 602,338 euros. Six months should see the nobel figures back on firm bases by December 2021. Even with the work going on the sea was throwing in the odd bigger wave, and the building site setting  would have dented anyones pride, but neither the interuption or cheeky seagulls could phase the kings.

The plaza was compensating with a homage to local born artist Dimas Coello. A full range of events were scrolling out through 2021 and samples of his work were spread across the busy plaza. Rejuvination was in the air, a few bars and cafes had opemed outside terraces during the restrictive Covid measures that denied inside gathering. A makeover was also underway at the nearby cultural centre, the year long huge nativity scene was covered but will hopefully return with a new artisitc look.

Back at Plaza de La Villa de Teror there was a new urban transport initiative involving pre ordered taxis on five set routes to open up the remote coastal and high altitude villages for the elderly and those with limited mobility. A similar scheme has already trialled in Fasnia with much success. Looking firther north along the coast, Las Caletillas is about to receive a 2 million euro upgrade of the promenade and beach areas over the course of 14 months. All these projects will go a long way to lift the recently under fire economy – and lure me back for regular check ups.

Was that a stoney glint in Agatha Christie´s eyes? Maybe it was anticipation of the fourth festival in her name in Puerto de la Cruz. The 5 to 14 November homage to the British crime writing legend is based on her time in the north Tenerife city writing a short story called “The Enigmatic Mr Quinn”. It was just one of the events waiting to welcome people back to the coastal delight.

Just a month after the restart of the TITSA 343 bus service between Costa Adeje, Los Cristianos, and Puerto de la Cruz had a dozen passengers on board, a good increase on my last trip under the Covid restrictions. On and offs at Tenerife South, and Tenerife North airports still left a half full bus when I bailed out at La Paz on the outskirts of the city centre. Agatha´s statue had new friends, two yellow shirted ladies offered information and advive under the city´s Safe Tourism banner. The cafes down the wide walkway to Playa Martianez were bristling with customers.

A mix of hot sun, mingling crowds and big waves all added to the busy vibe, and it was good to see hotels with open windows and busy balconies. The return of the scrawny parrots for photo sales was not so welcome, at least there was something more imaginative in the form of a wood art guitar bike. It featured initials of the worlds greatest players and a few young passers by twanged out some great riffs. The back street murals had been joined by a few new additions, notices promised that the next day the returning street market would provide more reasons for exploring the back streets.

Heading out to the rough car park parade overlooking Playa Jardin, the new face of the city was emerging. All traces of the old outdoor swimming pool were gone as the 8 million euro aquatic centre rose from the shallow end. Next door, the El Penon football stadium was ready for its new beighbour and will again show its versatility as a venue by staging Penon Rock on 15 October. Last year it staged two days of similar music under tougher Covid restrictions. Back in the centre of town, Timanfaya Cinema was offering regular music shows with tribute acts like Robbie Williams, in the Sala Teatro.

My bus ticket was demanding more miles, so I headed up to Los Realejos Alto and the Ayuntamiento building at the top of the town. Photo art filled the council plaza, full marks for hospitality, they invited me inside their historic building. Passing a small open public library and a stained glass version of the municipality crest, I was able to look down on the art exhibits from the balcony. The photos were part of a competition for students in the local photography course – very impressive.

More bus routes and stops had been added to the streets that unwound down to Los Realejos Bajo. I tried the 390 route for some different views on its way past the popular eatery El Monastario. My hunger was fuelled for another trip soon to try the steep path up to the isolated church of La Montaneta

Carbon copy goals from Moreno snatched three points for visitors Mirandes, the final on the last gasp of injury time. Tenerife had looked to have done just enough thanks to a Michel Herrero penalty just before half time, but they needed a second half goal to keep the sparky visitors at bay.

Coach Ramis took some of the blame, bringing off the always dangerous Sam Shashoua to be replaced by extra defender Pomares with 10 minutes to go. A quick breakaway and Moreno sped down the left, rounded the home defence and slotted the ball past Soriano to set the nerves jangling, his late late encore followed a similar route and was the last touch of the game for a 1-2 Mirandes win. All this was played out against the background of the volcanic eruption on the neighbouring Canary Island of La Palma just prior to kick off. Home fans showed their solidarity with a minutes applause for the affected islanders.

Mirandes weren´t expected to be a tough test, they soon showed they were not just going to roll over. Hassan drove most of their early threats. Elady was sharp for Tenerife, his best first half chance was a shot that drifted away from the goal on the half hour. As the 9,957 crowd were settling for a 0-0 half time break, Michel Herrero was upended in the box and squeezed home a penalty that should have been the launch pad to victory.

Ramis was thinking ahead to two tough away games when he subbed right back Mellot in the break, the French defender had been booked so it was a wise move. Replacement Shaq Moore also gives more attacking options down the flank. Frustration built as the second half wore on and Mirandes discovered some ambition. Sam Shashoua hit the woodwork, and Soriano made a fine save for the home side. The leveller was a shock to Tenerife, and they failed to recover from it.

The ref added a generous portion of extra time and Moreno tried his luck and sneaked the winner just before the whistle blew. Tenerife were not at their recent best but still remain in 4th spot. It makes for added pressure in the next two consecutive away games that will be a test of character and bekief. Hopefully this loss will be taken as a hard but valuable lesson.

Teno rural park, the pools, caves, and peaks of Erjos, and the last big volcanic eruption site at Chinyero. They are all linked by popular walking trails, but dig deeper into the soil of this north western corner of Tenerife and a common bond is revealed. A trip to the El Tanque Eco Museo will show how a special bond between nature and people was forged by hard work and respect.

Nestling between a pine forest and and view to the distant ocean, a huddle of renovated 17th century farm buildings with courtyards, threshing circles, and even spme small caves to shelter goats, have plenty of tales to tell. An ancient plough stands proud on the roundabout by the entrance ro the museum, just above the Los Llanos turning where Santiago del Teide blends into Erjos. A short walk up from the Titsa bus stop by Bar Fleyta or a drive to the ample car parking of the museum is all that´s needed.

Inside the FREE museum, old rural tools are complimented by interactive display screens in English, Spanish, and Germman, with GR codes ready to give phone access to personal testimonies from people who have worked the volcanic enriched soil. There´s even solar panels to save energy – very ancient meets modern.

There were no such short cuts in the past, seasons were long and hard with ground being broken, fertilised and seeded before a range of cereals and potatoes could be grown. Threshing was also a long process of around six weeks with cereal crops dried in the sun and then raked over by a threshing board pulled by oxen or horses. Whole families would take part, it was a big social event with songs, stories, and meals shared as they worked. Every year a threshing fair still takes place in the last week of July to preserve and celebrate yhose traditions.

Large picnic areas now encourage visitors to linger on their visit. The museum is open every day except Monday, from 1st June to 30 September from 11 am to 6 pm, and from 1st October to 31st May – 10.30 am to 5.30 pm. The museum can arrange group visits and tours, just contact them via the website. Whether your rural knowledge is a seedling or fully grown, the museum will make you feel closer to nature.

Confidence oozed through CD Tenerife as transfer window signings flicked the on switch for a convincing 2-0 home win over Segunda Division leaders Ponferradina.

Elady, and Enric Gallego were big and bustling up front sewing seeds of doubt in the visitors defence and providing clear targets for their team mates to pick out. Elady was denied twice in early play by the Ponferradina goalie and when the away side made it to the hosts end, goalie Soriano, another summer arrival,was in solid form to seize the ball. It wasn´t just about the new faces, Tenerife held on to last seasons gems despite envious eyes from other clubs, it made for an encouraging blend of the defensive discipline installed last season by coach Ramis, and a bold new belief.

Sam Shashoua laid off some tempting balls for the front two and full back Alex Muñoz used the left flank as his own personal playground. Veteran centre back Carlos Ruiz had a cheeky claim for a penalty when bundled over but the ref didn´t oblige. Ponferrasina faded fast and offered little, half time was reached with no goals but that looked sure to be temporary as Tenerife were calling the tune.

The arrival of deadline day recruit Mollejo, a 20 year old loanee from Atletico Madrid, added to the attacking vibe. Lively and hungry for the ball, the new boy showed creativity and within five minutes Elady had grabbed the lead, pouncing on a poor clearance before placing it wide of the goalies reach. Coach Ramis kept up the tempo by adding local striker Ethyan for Enric who departed to generous applause from the 6,940 Covid limited crowd. Masked fans were not deterred by the vlistering heat and belted out the much missed terrace anthems.

The best was yet to come. Defender Alex Muñoz doesn´t score many goals but they are usually spectacular. This time he latched onto a through ball, waltzed through three defenders and unleashed a fierce shot into the Ponferradina net. The clincher was watched from the visitors bench by Naranjo, subbed for being as ineffective as he was during two seasons with Tenerife. There is a lot more to come from the resurgent Tenerife squad, they played with a dash of style and plenty of heart. Tougher challenges lie ahead but the squad has lots of positional options and competiton for places in the starting eleven.

Candy striped and 167 feet tall, the most modern of two lighthouses can be seen from Los Cristianos beach in the south of Tenerife. Answering its call with two friends, we uncovered the harsh but beautiful coastal history of lava fields, salt production, and moody seas. Malpais de la Rasca is the protected cultural heritage site but we started out at the fishing village of Las Galletas. Freak waves had punched a gaping hole in the beach promenade, a reminder that this stretch of twinkling blue sea could pack a punch anytime it chose to. The modern marina soon faded as small coves and crunching shingle led us through tall spikey cardones plants. Rock pools abounded as a meandering path climbed and dipped. Shade arrived alongside huge plantations of bananas that looked enough to feed an army of monkeys.

A notice and the rearing tower of the 1978 built lighthouse announced the entrance to the malpais (badlands). Dried pools harked back to the days when sea salt was harvested from the waves that buffeted the coast. There were other welcome uses for these small puddles of water. Tabaiba plants sprout in clusters around the lava field, the toxic armaga variety sprinkled in a pool would induce a drunk like state making the delirious fush easy to grab.

The squat buildings near the sea beacon are from the 1898 original lighthouse, built from stone quarried from Guaza mountain were for the lighthouse keepers family, and the lamp room which needed lighting by hand from acetylene gas. There was no such burden  on our visit, just a few young sun bathers on the nearby outcrops of rock, oblivious to the daily dramas that used to play out as ships were kept well away from the rocks.

Pushing on into the lava fields, we followed an uneven surface a few yards back from the sea. It must have been a slow and uncomfortable procession for herders, cattle, and traders. Some of the old stone huts (goros) still remain at least in part, they would have provided welcome relief from unexpected turns in the weather and any accidents on slippy surfaces. In recent years people have built illegal shacks on the protected zone, a few weeks before our visit a big clean up removed 1,335 kilos of rubbish. that doesn´t mean it´s lifeless out there, some 40 species of reptile call the area home.

Guaza mountain and the modern developments of Palm Mar steered us past the old protective fort and onto even roads to a small promenade. Familiar landmarks over in Los Cristianos looked enticingly close but its a choice of a steep up and over the mountain or our chosen route up the main street of Palm Mar to the busy bus road back into Los Cristianos. The mountain is worthy of a dedicated walk in its own right with a track up the spine to the radio mast park at the peak. A few bars in Palm Mar ensured we cot some cooling liquids after a hot 2.5 hour stroll. Rasca is a taste of tradition and a connection to tougher times.

Four points from their first two league games, and some quality new signings. CD Tenerife welcomed back the fans after 530 days of Covid exile, and it felt so good to be home. The 0-0 Santa Cruz draw with Sporting Gijon spotlighted the need for a proven scorer but 34 year old French Tunisian Yoann Touzghar is expected to join within days, he signed off with a goal for Troyes in France´s top division after his 16 goals last season fired them to promotion.

Just 5,059 fans witnessed the Tenerife return, a big drop from the Covid restricted 9,000 reduced capacity (the Heliodoro holds 23,000). Some 2000 fans didnt take up the new season tickets in time but lean financial times and concerns over the Covid restrictions on standing, smoking, compulsory masks, and distancing in green spot seats all made an impact. Reality was much kinder on this big step towards normality. There was a light touch to stewarding, Armada Sur fan club from the south brought their usual two coach´s to our pre match plaza and bars. Our turnstile wait was no longer than usual and despite the hot sun, everyone was in a cool mood.

Sporting bossed the first half, probing down the flanks with left back Ktavets trying to open things up before running into new home defender Mellot, one of the pre season success stories. Alexandre Corredera was another who shone in pre season games but couldn´t quite live up to his superb goal to clinch the 1-2 win at Fuenlabrada on opening day of the regular season. Recruited goalie Soriano kept the gloves to start and had another solid game. It wasn´t just about admiring the new guns, recently retired Suso Santana was honoured with a minutes ovation at the tenth minute mark. A well deserved tribute to the man who gave ten seasons of passion to Tenerife. The applause helped to loosen up the crowd a little and assure fans that they could cheer again for their favourites.

Tenerife grew in stature in the second half, Alexandre forced a low save from Diego Marino and Brit Sam Shashoua clipped the post after shaking off his markers. Coach Ramis was ready to shuffle the pack, adding Nono for Sergio Gonzalez in midfield and bringing on 19 year old local goal prospect Ethyan from Cruz Santa. The young striker has rattled in goals at youth and B team level, he worked hard and every senior minute he gets now will boost him as a player. Gijon dug in for the point after Tenerife surged forward fuelled by the return of passionate voices from the crowd. A draw was a fair result against a side that are expected to challenge for promotion. As for the match day experience, it was like slipping back into a comfortable routine. The bond between fans and the team was renewed in our Heliodoro home.

Memories of summer camps as a very green “brussel sprout” resurfaced as sweet scented blooms emerged from  delicate bushes. Puerto del Erjos bus stop was just a few downward strides in my wake with Santiago del Teide, and Masca shielded by green ridges. The north west of Tenerife added parched trails and volcanic outcrops to daydreaming of my lost youth, and the heat was a much different setting from those rainy walks.

Bird song drew me to the pools in the wetland spread but on this August day they were distinctly dry. It was a start reminder of how quickly nature can change, in recent years wild fires had swept through the area but the balance had swung back and new growth sprouted at every turn. My aim this trip was to  head for the black caves on the lower trail to the coast of Los Silos. Heading across to the white church tower in the hamlet of Erjos, I ploughed down a bumpy track between a cluster of old houses. A few months before, I had taken the high road up and over Monte de Aqua above the rising tree line. This was more of a hidden pleasure as the track narrowed and sunlight speckled the ground through a curtain of leaves.

It was short of markers and outside sound was filtered to a low level, I was grateful to a narrow water pipe that stretched ahead of me with reassurance that I was making progress. It gave me time though to appreciate the delicate shades of the leaves thrusting their heads up towards the light in the few spaces that appeared. The gaps became bigger and I got clear views of the cave openings that seemed to suggest facial features.

Not mnay other walkers desturbed my reflection, although there always seems to be at least one super fit athlete running against the flow. A family group from the Czech Republic stopped for a chat at they started at the coastal end – Tenerife´s walking pedigree reaches far beyond our shores. It was difficult to guess how far back the caves went but there were plenty of them to offer valuable shelter for farmers and traders as they cut off a long round trip against the sometimes fierce waves that batter the coast.

The final stretch gave me a base upwards view of mountains that I had viewed across barrancos, either way it was an impressive sight. Los Silos loomed into view and my path converged with the concrete path that cut directly out to the bus stop up past Garachico and into Icod. My admiration of Erjos had risen another few notches, theres still plenty more variations to explore and the seasons will keep changing the outlook on what I have seen so far.

An iron clad Spanish conquistador reeled at the feet of Guanche warrior, Tinguaro, as he sounded a defiant call on a conch shell. Cars thundered by on the Tenerife north motorway between Santa Cruz and Puerto de la Cruz below were oblivious to the large mural but I felt like I was straddling two ages as I gazed through the wild grass.

Not that I was feeling critical of the local council gardening services for La Matanza de Acentejo. A worker was expertly trimming the garden on the rise into the town, It set the tone for the overall appearance of the municipality, a small picnic area with seating overlooked the dual carriageway. The rest area also featured a modern art version of the brother of Mencey Bencomo, one of the original tribal kings and a key player in the rearguard stand to delay the Spanish invaders back in 1495.

A mix of old dwellings and vineyards steerd me up a steep climb , beckoned by the twin towers of the El Salvador church. There were more benches and breather points along the way. From one I watched as two chickens played out their own turf war below a canopy of green leaves and ripening grapes. The church and large plaza were noble and well tended, A school of music, and a centre for people of the third age (such a nicer term than OAPs) boosted the range of facillities. Posters for a series of concerts featuring Cuban music kept up the cultural choices.

Heading back down to Calle Real, the street that meanders through the town, it was quiet but a few people were adding little proud brush strokes and repairs to houses with plenty of character. Plaza de Cuchareras gleamed brightly as the Ermita looked down on the roses and the fountain . It was a fair walk along to the end of town, a modern sports centre offered plenty of excercise to keep bodies nimble for treading the higher parts of town. With the coast far down below and the looming figure of Mount Teide above, La Matanza had plenty to say for itself before the road meged into the start of La Victoria. This corridor of the north keeps calling me back, and i have still only scratched the surface.